troyzstang Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 ^^ Words of wisdom right there. I thought I would save a few duckies and buy a bike on the cheap. $4,000 later I'm still throwing money at it. Troy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldskool Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 I just want to add to what a couple guys have already told you. Do the leakdown test before you tear it down. Hopefully its all good, but you can't do the test after you tear it down until you get it back together. Then if you find a crank seal leak its "oh shit" tear it down again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ric-ross1 Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 Once you get in to it you will start finding lots of things to replace. Hope you got cash to spend. It adds up fast to do it right. Hahaha he got that right, this things turn into a money pit quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murder_face Posted January 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 Once you get in to it you will start finding lots of things to replace. Hope you got cash to spend. It adds up fast to do it right. First off, thanks to GINGER for posting up some suggestions and to everyone else for helping me out. I have some pictures to post up here and hopefully that might help with some more suggestions. I saw some anti-freeze in the left exhaust when I took it off, and as I got the top end off I noticed the pistons seemed to have a lot of free play and some odd wear on the skirts. SO, I am for sure just going to tear her all down, replace the seals and get some proper machine work done. Ok here it is so far: Seems to be a lot of play in the cylinders, I don't have my calipers yet so I cant really measure them I'm thinking it was infact milled down, but it looks like a piston or plug let loose a time or two The crank looks alright and the rods look like they're in good shape (the pictures makes it looks like rust, but its more of a bronze looking material) I found a CT in the cylinders... Here is the port, what does it look like to you guys? Here are the reeds, can anyone identify them, they look like a quality set at least, yeah? Can anyone identify these A arms? I need new bushings at the very least...and if they are crap, I might just get a new set Lucky for me, as a student, my school is paid for by the military and I collect my GI Bill. I also have a cash job that I work, building custom handlebars for choppers and all that, so I THINK I can get this thing built up properly, but I would like to keep it budget minded. I do plan on doing suspension after its all together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ric-ross1 Posted January 25, 2013 Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 Walls dont look bad, take to machine shop and get them checked for roundness and see if you need bore, hone or just new set of pistons/rings, those reeds look like the ones my stock banshee has but i dont have those carbon fiber pedals might be wrong and the ports looks that they have some kind of work done to them. Pros correct me if wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyzstang Posted January 25, 2013 Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 If Cylinders are actually CT they are good. 65mm bore is ok as well. You still have some time on those. They do look like a MX / dune port. Cylinder head is toast in my opinion. Get another one here for cheap or run a cool head. Do yourself a favor from now on though. Clean the motor before you tear it down. Good luck Troy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murder_face Posted January 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 If Cylinders are actually CT they are good. 65mm bore is ok as well. You still have some time on those. They do look like a MX / dune port. Cylinder head is toast in my opinion. Get another one here for cheap or run a cool head. Do yourself a favor from now on though. Clean the motor before you tear it down. Good luck Troy Yeah I know I should have cleaned it up, honestly the way this guy had this thing rigged together, I think I will be good in splitting the cases and adding new seals. I mean I already have it out and the quad is almost tore down completely (going to have the frame blasted, check all the welds, add some brackets to relocate the cdi and regulator and I would like to get an airbox back on it) Is there any good way to check the serials on the cylinders to see if they are CT? My pistons measure 64.5ish and the cylinders measure 64.98 and I know that the piston can be like .06mm smaller then the bore right? Oh yeah, the oil looked TERRIBLE in this thing too. These are Namura pistons and honestly I think I would like to run Wiseco forged. The ignition set up looks like it hit or melted a bit on the pick-up? Replace it? Basically for the motor here is my plan, based on what I have learned from you guys so far! 1) Get the cylinders checked for roundess - Bore or hone them if needed and Wiseco piston kit 2) New head (coolhead?) 3) TORS eliminator and new clutch/throttle cables 4) Airbox, intake, carb boots 5) Open bottom end, check it out... and replace all the seals 6) Install adjustable timing plate, since it came with the bike anyway 7) Replace ignition? Like I said, I am going to keep it as simple as I can, but I don't want to half-ass it, especially since its already apart. I will build a nice, reasonable bottom end with new seals and all that good stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murder_face Posted January 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 Does anyone know where I can get a good seal/gasket kit? Also where is a good place to order the speciality tools? Thanks again for all the help everyone! Can't wait to get this thing done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ginger Posted January 25, 2013 Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 Yeah I know I should have cleaned it up, honestly the way this guy had this thing rigged together, I think I will be good in splitting the cases and adding new seals. I mean I already have it out and the quad is almost tore down completely (going to have the frame blasted, check all the welds, add some brackets to relocate the cdi and regulator and I would like to get an airbox back on it) Is there any good way to check the serials on the cylinders to see if they are CT? My pistons measure 64.5ish and the cylinders measure 64.98 and I know that the piston can be like .06mm smaller then the bore right? Oh yeah, the oil looked TERRIBLE in this thing too. These are Namura pistons and honestly I think I would like to run Wiseco forged. The ignition set up looks like it hit or melted a bit on the pick-up? Replace it? Basically for the motor here is my plan, based on what I have learned from you guys so far! 1) Get the cylinders checked for roundess - Bore or hone them if needed and Wiseco piston kit 2) New head (coolhead?) 3) TORS eliminator and new clutch/throttle cables 4) Airbox, intake, carb boots 5) Open bottom end, check it out... and replace all the seals 6) Install adjustable timing plate, since it came with the bike anyway 7) Replace ignition? Like I said, I am going to keep it as simple as I can, but I don't want to half-ass it, especially since its already apart. I will build a nice, reasonable bottom end with new seals and all that good stuff. Everything sounds good, just some suggestions, if you have the bottom end appart, see if the crank is welded. if not send it out to be trued and welded, you will thank me later. If there is no problems with the ignition, then use it, aftermarket ignitions normally have terrible reliablity, and are not a good bang for the buck, most guys here will suggest a stock ignition setup. Does anyone know where I can get a good seal/gasket kit? Also where is a good place to order the speciality tools? Thanks again for all the help everyone! Can't wait to get this thing done! Call up FAST or go to www.farmandsandtoys.com he has everything you would need. and that porting looks like a dune or mild drag to me, not 100% though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murder_face Posted January 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 Everything sounds good, just some suggestions, if you have the bottom end appart, see if the crank is welded. if not send it out to be trued and welded, you will thank me later. If there is no problems with the ignition, then use it, aftermarket ignitions normally have terrible reliablity, and are not a good bang for the buck, most guys here will suggest a stock ignition setup. Call up FAST or go to www.farmandsandtoys.com he has everything you would need. and that porting looks like a dune or mild drag to me, not 100% though. Awesome man, I looked around on there and he really does have everything I need! Haha, I am glad I joined up here, usually people don't respond with much help on other forums, but you guys kick ass! I've got some cash saved up but I am going to wait a couple weeks, this will give me time to get the motor apart and figure out exactly what I need...then I will just try to make one big order. Based on my riding, which includes a bit of everything...sand, dirt, trails, water, mud, do you guys think I should sell these cylinders and grab something stock or with a more mild port? I would be open to trades! Also, I would like to get an airbox. I am going to stick with the stock carbs, just eliminate the TORS and clean rebuild them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ginger Posted January 25, 2013 Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 Awesome man, I looked around on there and he really does have everything I need! Haha, I am glad I joined up here, usually people don't respond with much help on other forums, but you guys kick ass! I've got some cash saved up but I am going to wait a couple weeks, this will give me time to get the motor apart and figure out exactly what I need...then I will just try to make one big order. Based on my riding, which includes a bit of everything...sand, dirt, trails, water, mud, do you guys think I should sell these cylinders and grab something stock or with a more mild port? I would be open to trades! Also, I would like to get an airbox. I am going to stick with the stock carbs, just eliminate the TORS and clean rebuild them Also forgot to tell you those reeds are boysen twin stage. Personally i think they are garbage, the 2 of them never seal up right. You can get v force reeds here pretty cheap. I would send the cylinders or to someone like FAST, Wildcard, ect. who ever is doing your crank normally does porting. and ask them what they think of the porting before going too far. and JSYK, between buying mine and rebuilding im gonna have like 6k in mine and most of the parts i got used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murder_face Posted January 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 Also forgot to tell you those reeds are boysen twin stage. Personally i think they are garbage, the 2 of them never seal up right. You can get v force reeds here pretty cheap. I would send the cylinders or to someone like FAST, Wildcard, ect. who ever is doing your crank normally does porting. and ask them what they think of the porting before going too far. and JSYK, between buying mine and rebuilding im gonna have like 6k in mine and most of the parts i got used. Awesome, thanks again! Yeah I expect to put some money into it, nothing new to me. If I could find some blueprints to make a rear swingarm I could easily do it myself and save some money. I have a lathe, mill, TIG welding, Pipe bender, all that good stuff. I am going to order some specialty tools, what do I absolutely need and which one would be best out of the several brands? ( I would imagine some have more functions then others (left and or right hand threads, etc.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murder_face Posted January 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 Ok, well I just confirmed that I am buying a set of cases (without the chain break) a hot rods 4 mil, welded, and most of the bottom end for like 600. So I will base the rest of my build off the bottom end once its buttoned up. I figured I would do the better shifter/modded shift star and a nicer clutch with all new seals on the bottom. The top end I will get some cylinders mx/trail ported. I am going to talk to FAST about maybe getting it sorted out. I will be ready to buy my top end in a week or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The-Association Posted January 28, 2013 Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 Just a quick question.. Does it have a clean vin? Hate to see so much work get taken away..good luck on build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murder_face Posted January 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2013 Just a quick question.. Does it have a clean vin? Hate to see so much work get taken away..good luck on build. Its solid. I work at a custom bike shop at the we have the DOT dude in all the time checking bikes we build to tag them for us..he checked it out and nothing came up. No title, but the only state around here that technically requires one is South Dakota, and thats only for road use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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