V force 3's and stator questions

[fastforworddad]

I just have a couple of quick questions.

 

I bought a shee pretty much stock, only modification was a set of FMF fatty's.

 

Noticed the headlights would not come on so I checked the bulbs with meter and also hooked up my dewalt battery and they came on.

 

So I ohm'd out the lighting section of the stator and it was .8 with my scale at 200 ohms, I know the banshee bible says it should be .26-.38 ohms.

 

Question is would my ohm reading be enough to disable the lighting circuit. Sure would like to hear from some of the wise men before I slap down money for a stator

if that is not the problem.

 

 

Next question is I bought some V force 3's and was going to install them but they don't seem to wanna fit. Is there some more modification that is needed to the 2 pieces that the crossover tube fits in.

 

Thanks

 

Wayne

[98_shee]

You need to cut the part off the intake boots that is stopping them from going in.

[Dicklez]

I just have a couple of quick questions.

 

I bought a shee pretty much stock, only modification was a set of FMF fatty's.

 

Noticed the headlights would not come on so I checked the bulbs with meter and also hooked up my dewalt battery and they came on.

 

So I ohm'd out the lighting section of the stator and it was .8 with my scale at 200 ohms, I know the banshee bible says it should be .26-.38 ohms.

 

Question is would my ohm reading be enough to disable the lighting circuit. Sure would like to hear from some of the wise men before I slap down money for a stator

if that is not the problem.

 

 

Next question is I bought some V force 3's and was going to install them but they don't seem to wanna fit. Is there some more modification that is needed to the 2 pieces that the crossover tube fits in.

 

Thanks

 

Wayne

 

As far as the reeds go, I used a razor to cut the tits of the stock boots untill it was below the outer seal rubber. As far as the stator goes, I would try and drop your ohm setting down to at least 10 or 1. May get a more accurate reading. If the manual shows .26-.33 and your at almost an ohm, I would say you have some resistance somewhere. Check wires and solder points. I would think at least you would have a dim bulb tho. East Coast ATV sells used stators if your trying to keep cost down. Give them a shout.

[fastforworddad]

Thanks guys for the quick response.

 

The clymers doesn't really give much to check in the way of the electrical system. I don't mind getting a new one but want to be sure that is the problem.

 

Maybe I will look at the schematic more closely to see if I can check the switch also.

 

I will cut the rubbers of the crossover tube pieces. Thought that was the way to do it but wanted to be sure.

 

Thanks again

 

 

Wayne

[98_shee]

Don't cut it where the crossover tube goes. Cut it on the back side of the boots where it is stoping them from going in place.

[fastforworddad]

Yeah thats how I did it and they are installed.

 

Shouldnt have to re-jet should I?

 

Back to this electrical problem-- is there a place I can supply 12 volts to check the switch, I know for a fact rear tail light as well as both front low and high beams are working, just nothing when switch is turned on.

 

I guess either way it will probably be the regulator or the stator.

[tedd1]

have you read thru >THIS<?

You can check for voltage at the switch or regulator with the motor running.

[fastforworddad]

have you read thru >THIS<?

You can check for voltage at the switch or regulator with the motor running.

 

No actually I hadn't seen that but read through it. I tested the continuity of the lighting system and all was good.

 

Thanks

 

Wayne