Phelps Posted January 15, 2012 Report Posted January 15, 2012 i am not making you cut or do anything. just telling you there is a reason yamaha mounted the leverage point as far away as they did. try to duplicate that distance and you should be fine. Quote
cattledog Posted January 15, 2012 Report Posted January 15, 2012 my steering on the banshee i just purchased is doing the same the wheel actually locks to one side, it was this way when i bought it, pretty sure it has stock spindles and burguard a-arms , i have not looked into the problem yet as i am waiting on my jugs and a-arm bushings. Quote
Phelps Posted January 15, 2012 Report Posted January 15, 2012 my steering on the banshee i just purchased is doing the same the wheel actually locks to one side, it was this way when i bought it, pretty sure it has stock spindles and burguard a-arms , i have not looked into the problem yet as i am waiting on my jugs and a-arm bushings. bend your steering stop back where it actually works. Quote
DwnSouth Posted January 15, 2012 Author Report Posted January 15, 2012 Are the upper heims on the spindle LH threads? I don't see why they would be but damn they tight ! Or if they weren't they are now!! Quote
4MiLLDraGSheE Posted January 16, 2012 Report Posted January 16, 2012 Why are you worried about steering? Banshees are made to go straight it you need to turn pick it up or turn a little and punch the gas hard it will turn you. Just saying. Seriously though my Stella's are not that close to the spindle so I would think that's the problem too Quote
Coupelx Posted January 16, 2012 Report Posted January 16, 2012 Ahhh there goes the powder coat i can help with that Quote
Starwriter Posted January 16, 2012 Report Posted January 16, 2012 (edited) Are the upper heims on the spindle LH threads? I don't see why they would be but damn they tight ! Or if they weren't they are now!! Yes, all tie rods made by people that know what they're doing, have left hand threads on one end. If you look close at the threads you can see which way the nut needs to turn to back it off. Oh wait, are you talking about the heim that replaces the ball joint? If so, no, should be right hand thread. Edited January 16, 2012 by Starwriter Quote
DwnSouth Posted January 17, 2012 Author Report Posted January 17, 2012 Cut off the short arm and welded on a longer one. Also cut 1/2 off spindle height to get my arms parallel. Getn there... Quote
Starwriter Posted January 17, 2012 Report Posted January 17, 2012 Looks good. Nice work. So, did that slow the steering down a bunch? In the video from before, it was so fast that if you blinked your eyes you would have been going the other direction. I'm guessing that now you're going to need to cut some off of the nuts that you welded to the steering stem. Quote
DwnSouth Posted January 18, 2012 Author Report Posted January 18, 2012 Looks good. Nice work. So, did that slow the steering down a bunch? In the video from before, it was so fast that if you blinked your eyes you would have been going the other direction. I'm guessing that now you're going to need to cut some off of the nuts that you welded to the steering stem. You're right. Now I think I'll be ok cutting the nuts off. I'll prolly grind half off and see what happens. It won't have any turning radius with the limited steering right now. Quote
BigRed350x Posted January 18, 2012 Report Posted January 18, 2012 Did you actually measure and figure out where your ackerman angle needs to be, or did you just cut the new arms with that curve in there for fun? I would also put a gusset between your new steering arm and your spindle body. Quote
Starwriter Posted January 18, 2012 Report Posted January 18, 2012 That's a nice image. However, that applies to a solid tie tierod or rack and pinion steering. The way there are 2 holes in steering stem, that provides some of the ackerman effect. With a solid rear axle and riding on sand, correct toe out on turns is not that critical. Quote
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