Dahl87banshee Posted December 20, 2011 Report Share Posted December 20, 2011 Hey guys I have an 87 banshee. I love it and i always keep it running great. The only problem is everything always goes out. Ball joints making me get j arms, swingarm bearings, axle bearings, wheel bearings, brakes.. I cant afford to keep fixing it! Lol It has always ran good and not let me down. So i rode a friends Yfz the other day that has a +2 stem and bar risers. And wow it felt so right. The only thing that through me off was it had no balls. I have read every post on here about these and i love the idea so far. I can weld great and there is a shop that can bend pipes in the town close to me. I have a junk motor to use as a jig and a few sets of shitty pipes too mess around with. I have done a couple swaps before so i understand all of the things im trying to do but i want to know what pipes people recomend. Ill get the motor mounted with the shit pipes and make sure chains wont break and that it all runs good before the good pipes get chopped up. But yeah what pipes you think i should use, If i should cut the frame out like a few people did or if i should cut the pipes to fit instead, where you think the best spot to mount the coil is, if i should do a 2 into 1 exhaust or just one out each side, somebody that understands pipes to tell me where to cut and how much of it. Just pretty much give me some ideas. im in the process of finding a blown up yfz or just a roller and see what i can do. Thanks in advance to anyone that helps. Cant wait to get the started. They look great finished on youtube. One more is i dont have the biggest funds you will ever see. But i have any steel i will need and welder and banshee parts. Just throw me a rough number on how much it really costs. Im good friends with the shop owner with the pipe bender so i can do that free. Just anything that might throw me off track on this project Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt1 Posted December 23, 2011 Report Share Posted December 23, 2011 I am just about finished with mine and I can say that I did not think that it was too bad of a job. I will probably have about 20 or 25 hours of time spent on the project. 2 into 1 would probably be a pain unless you plan on doing some major frame mods or pipe cutting. I used a set of fatty's and found that the right side is pretty easy and the left is a pain. I ended up cutting my left pipe twice, once at the flange and once at a seam so that I could rotate the pipe to line up better. I also used a torch to heat up and bend the pipes in a place or two. Overall I thought the swap was not that hard just time consuming. You can see mine on the thread I started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomas h. Posted December 23, 2011 Report Share Posted December 23, 2011 The coil is mounted high under the tank where the gas tank is bolted down. I didn't cross the header pipes. Mine toomies are cut close to the flange and rotated by the expanchine chamber ( engine side ). The stingers are adapted the the location of the pipes. The spring hanger and souport tabs are re located. This is the only experience I have I'm hoping someone will do some CPI or shearers or R2 and report on how it went. If you can do most of the work your self your. Biggest cost will be the roller. My unexpected cost where the desert tank and the stator to run the 450 lights. But the biggest point of the swap is long travel. So that has also been a big cost. After the swap was done the things I need to do better is bigger pipes. After market rear shock with a remote resi. To make room for custom k&n air tubes. I currently use the 450 air box and pro flow adaptor. I want the 10 inch k&n pods. The ride and brakes are 10x better than before. I'm have way more control at top speed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dahl87banshee Posted December 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2011 http://eauclaire.craigslist.org/rvs/2702829415.html Theres a roller about 40 mins away from me not too bad on the price. And yeah they handle really really good. Around here pc or fmf is all you need so i shouldnt have much trouble. As for the pipes some of the builds on here just cut right where the o rings are at off and turned them a little and however and welded them. When i get the roller ill see how it all works out. Not really too big of hurry because i still need the roller. But motor mount pics and stuff would be great. And What statos do you need to run the 450 lights? I could just make a wiring harness that makes them work i think couldnt I? I made the wiring harness in my banshee and it works great. but yeah correct me on anything im wrong about so i know. It will be my everyday rider and i ride my stuff like i stold it. So i gotta do it the right way. But yeah alot of close up pictures of the mounts and if i need to run the strap mounts on the bottom or anyting and just how everything went for your guys builds. Pictures are worth more then any amount of words for me though.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alongfortheride Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 The pne we did we removed the original motor maount bars on front shortened and relocated them. We used stock front banshee motor mount plates and the stock lower snubbers. We had a bent up banshee frame that we sacrificed mounts off. So the mount look fairly stock. We used t5 pipes which we cut and rotated until we got them out in the right direction we have great pipe clearance. no more melting of the riding pants. I have ridden it several times and have never had it overheat. Our thought was use as many off the shelf parts as possible. like the stock banshee motor mount plates and lower rubber snubbers. Ill tell you these are a blast to ride. I am very happy with mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomas h. Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 Good price on the roller. I'll get some pics some day loaded Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92 TSi AWD Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 That YFZ chassis looks pretty clean. I've seen front shocks and a-arms going for 300-400 dollars alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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