THE358BANSH Posted October 9, 2011 Report Share Posted October 9, 2011 So, last time we went riding I noticed some water in my trans when the day was done. I knew it was coming by how grooved the impeller shaft was last time it went together, but I didn't have the stuff to fix it then. I ordered a bunch of stuff on Wednesday from Jerry at Chariot and he was super cool about making sure it got to me by Friday. Tore into it late Friday, measured the clutch, installed pancake bearing, and installed new high flow impeller and cover. I got everything back together late, filled it with fluids and started it to check for leaks. Everything was decent so I took it for a quick blast in the field and didn't get a quarter mile before the radiator cap purged like it was overheating. I checked the gauge with my cell and holy shit it was at 224! I pushed it back to the shop and let it cool down for a bit before draining the coolant. I refilled it with cooler water, and started it again. The motor was idling, but the temp gauge said it was getting cooler the longer it ran so I knew something was up. Drained the water out again and quick pulled the pump cover off. Kicked her over and sure as shit, the pump doesn't spin. Tore back into the cover only to find half the gear on the impeller shaft and the other half at the bottom of the case. I brushed it off as me being to antsy and not paying attention when I bolted the cover on, figuring the gear wasn't lined up and when I tapped the cover on with my hand it must have cracked it. I called around today and found a gear and a new seal through Nieskes, Chevybanshee91, and HarbingerOfDeath. 200 mile round trip later and I am feeling good with all the parts I need and on a Saturday to boot. I pulled the old seal out and replace it, reinstall the bearing, and slip the impeller in. The cross pin goes in easy, gear on, then washer, then circlip. I was a bit smarter this time, as I left the pump cover off so I could turn the pump while installing the clutch cover to mate the gears, which I did and everything then bolted together fine. Installed kicker and used it to verify the pump turned and then proceeded with finishing up with the pump cover and fluids. I started the engine, let temp get up to a hundred or so and then went for my same ride as before. Needless to say, in almost the exact same spot the bitch puked and after lighting the gauge it was over 215. Brought it back, pulled the pump cover to find the impeller not turning again. Disassemble and find my second gear in two rides to be in multiple pieces. What gives? Evan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phelps Posted October 9, 2011 Report Share Posted October 9, 2011 seized bearing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THE358BANSH Posted October 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2011 (edited) seized bearing The bearing feels well used, but it is definitely not seized. Edited October 9, 2011 by THE358BANSH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06specialedition Posted October 9, 2011 Report Share Posted October 9, 2011 Damn thats no good. I can't think of what it would be... I know this doesn't fix the problem right now but, I would suggest running a billet gear here is the one I run: http://www.mullengineering.com/sc/store.php/products/yamaha-banshee-billet-water-pump-drive-gear-impeller-drag-race-sand-trail-power-online Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THE358BANSH Posted October 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2011 Damn thats no good. I can't think of what it would be... I know this doesn't fix the problem right now but, I would suggest running a billet gear here is the one I run: http://www.mullengineering.com/sc/store.php/products/yamaha-banshee-billet-water-pump-drive-gear-impeller-drag-race-sand-trail-power-online I saw those this morning. One will be on order Monday and hopefully be here Tuesday.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted October 10, 2011 Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 (edited) The bearing feels well used, but it is definitely not seized. Wich could allow the impeller to catch or hang up on the clutch cover, thus breaking the plasic gear. Edited October 10, 2011 by jbooker82 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THE358BANSH Posted October 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 Which could allow the impeller to catch or hang up on the clutch cover, thus breaking the plastic gear. I don't remember there being contact on the cover from the impeller, but I will check again in the morning to be sure. I guess the thing that confuses me is that the gear has survived for how many years, I change a few things and now I have two junk gears. I looked at both the impellers side by side, and nothing sticks out as being drastically different. I will measure them both tomorrow just to make sure my eyes don't deceive me. I just ordered an aluminum gear from Mull. It should be here Wednesday at the latest so I should have some time to look over everything really well. Evan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TwistedSheeRida Posted October 10, 2011 Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 Im gonna say the bearing is junk also, get a new one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THE358BANSH Posted October 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 The bearing is fine guys. I think I may have found the issue though after measuring everything. On the portion of the shaft that pilots into the upper case half, the old shaft measures .3120" whereas the new impeller measures .3155". That extra .003" is just enough to cause a binding condition between the new shaft and case. That makes all the sense in the world seeing as the clutch cover was a pain to get pulled off. As of now I figure when I checked gear engagement by trying to turn the impeller, the gears were not lined up but the impeller didn't turn because of the shaft interference. Then when I bolted it down not lined up, the gear cracked and it got finished of when the engine was started. At least that is what I'm hoping...Evan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted October 11, 2011 Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 something is in there the gear is plastic for a reason its the weak link designed to break if there is a problem. FIND THE PROBLEM DONT JUST PUT IN A STEEL GEAR the drive gear have an issue? crank bent and causing problems? REPLACE the bearing anyways. something in the case area where the shaft rides and causeing a failure? some sort of crap in the coolant system like silicone or foregn material, like bugs dirt crap etc? (oops just read your above post.. i'll leave this here anyways..) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THE358BANSH Posted October 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 Just to let everyone know, the problem has been solved. I turned .003" off the portion of the shaft that rides inside the case halve and everything went together smooth. Motor temps never got above 155 degrees last night on a decent little ride. In case anyone wants to know, TrailTech has an awesome little temp gauge that goes inline on the upper radiator hose. So far it has been the best forty dollars spent in a long time... Evan http://trailtech.net/tto_temperature.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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