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Posted

I just installed a new Dynatek fs cdi box.And this thing will start for 2sec and die and back fire .I searched in these forums and found nothing any help would great thanks.

Posted

I just installed a new Dynatek fs cdi box.And this thing will start for 2sec and die and back fire .I searched in these forums and found nothing any help would great thanks.

 

Since the install is pretty straight forward, I would assume you have a faulty unit. Throw the stock CDI back on and if it runs, then I think you found your answer. Since I installed mine, with the switch off I can kick it and it will fire one maybe two revolutions before ignition fails. I'm guessing it has a healthy capacitor which provides the few sparks without having power. Which leads me to the next piece of advice, use dielectric grease on all connections. Anyway, hope you have some sort of warranty or return because it sounds you might have a faulty CDI (if it runs with the factory CDI again)

Posted

Thanks guys i did put the stocker back on and it did work. And i will be talking with the distributor i got it from to check in to the warranty.

Posted

Hard to tell, my serval already overpowered the tires in anything I ride. Throttle is crisper with the right dip switches set (I like curve 3) and it seems healthier but how do you judge more power when the tires are struggling to hold in either situation. lol

Posted

well, it all depends on what you are looking for/expect from it. if you are just looking for plug-and-play "bolt-on" power, well, you can get the same from a timing plate advance and "hotter" spark from a different coil. now, what makes it worth the money, is the major tueability and features for more involved builds, where you look at more than just peak power. you can spend $100, or find someone that already has, and program custom curves to suit your build. you can control powervalve servos, or powerjets, program a launch stutter, tap into tach, etc.... it also will basically allow you to adapt it to your build if you are going the progressive route........ and that's why you buy one, in reality..

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

I believe they should work with the switch removed. I think they are supose to use the stock ignition curve when the switch is removed. Do you have a teather kill switch and how is it installed?

Edited by jbooker82
Posted

What year is the bike?

 

Did you disable the parking brake wire on the Dyna?

 

 

I didn't know about any parking brake wire on the dyna .And how do you do it?

Posted

uhhh man..

 

in the direstions it says to use RESISTOR PLUGS the dyna is a digital ignition and will get all kinds of noise from the plugs.. if the dyna is mounted close to the coil ( as you dont say if it is or not) it will pick up all the noise from the coils field also. TRY NEW resistor caps AND BR8ES plugs.. if its in the stock location you should be fine with the coil issue. if your runing a NOLOGY coil the same applies. use resistor caps and resistor plugs.. the HOT WIRES will put out to much interference.

 

you will want to find out where the hell your curve box went. they mostly run best on stock curve 3.

Posted

uhhh man..

 

in the direstions it says to use RESISTOR PLUGS the dyna is a digital ignition and will get all kinds of noise from the plugs.. if the dyna is mounted close to the coil ( as you dont say if it is or not) it will pick up all the noise from the coils field also. TRY NEW resistor caps AND BR8ES plugs.. if its in the stock location you should be fine with the coil issue. if your runing a NOLOGY coil the same applies. use resistor caps and resistor plugs.. the HOT WIRES will put out to much interference.

 

you will want to find out where the hell your curve box went. they mostly run best on stock curve 3.

 

The dyna box is in the stock spot i will try resistor caps thanks.

Posted (edited)

What year is the bike? Does it have all the stock wiring components on it that came from that year?

Edited by Snopczynski

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