Flyinrazrback Posted June 4, 2011 Report Posted June 4, 2011 Trying to figure out what is going on with my banshee. Starts no problem, runs fine, but when you open it up it kind of surges and won't open up all the way without some surging. Its got a 76ho 4mil engine, port work, toomeys, etc. I know the previous owner said it is set rich as he dragged it and something with the floats causes the carbs to leak when the engine is not running, so have to turn the fuel off after riding it. I don't know a lot about the bike, but I ride it very easily. Think it could be fouled plugs or something else? For the kind of riding I do its not practical at all and thinking of trading it for a 4 stroke, but want to get this little bug worked out. Any suggestions appreciated. Quote
dirtydownunder Posted June 4, 2011 Report Posted June 4, 2011 was the bike ever running good when you had it ? what carbs is it running ? have you checked ignition resistances ? has anything changed to make it play up ? Quote
Larry's Shee Posted June 4, 2011 Report Posted June 4, 2011 (edited) Need a more comeplete list of mods/settings. Start with new plugs and clean air filter. Do you have fresh fuel mix? Where are carbs leaking? Bowl drain or overflow, might need new float needle and seat. As to trading it, a Banshee isn't for everyone, and set-up wrong for the use is for no one. You don't road race a funny car. Did PO say what type of porting/by who ? What kind of Toomys? With a little work you can get it set for what you want. Answer all questions the best you can for the best help. Edited June 4, 2011 by Larry's Shee Quote
Flyinrazrback Posted June 5, 2011 Author Report Posted June 5, 2011 Ok, I changed the plugs (they were fouled) and cleaned the dual K&N filters. It almost seems to be worse now. The surging is hard to describe. You know how if you take off in second or third gear the bike kind of struggles/chugs a bit to get going? It kind of feels like that. It almost feels like it is only firing on one side. However, when you get in the throttle a bunch and it comes on the pipe it just pulls like mad. Its only before getting on the pipe that it does this. My friend said that when I took off down the road it looked like a lot of smoke out one side of the pipes and not much out of the other. Here is a list of the mods, I do not know a lot about the bike but this is what I do know. Previous owner built the bike (has built 4 just like it), and may take it back down to him (100 miles away) but trying to diagnose it first to save me a drive if possible. He told me on his dyno it makes 76hp, 74 ft torque, which I assume is decent for a banshee. NOS Cool Heads with 20cc domes, compression 165, running 100 no lead fuel with Maxima 927 oil Wiseco pistons (not sure how much bored over), 4mil stroker crank Toomey T5 pipes Stock carbs with K&N filters w/outerwars Dune port work Ricky Stator w/adjustable timing plate V-Force reeds/spacers Barnett Clutches, Hinson clutch basket Not sure on the jets Any suggestions are appreciated. Quote
Zwiser Posted June 5, 2011 Report Posted June 5, 2011 you might be running lean on your pilots, does it seem to cut out? also theres usally a dead spot before the pipe comes on before the powerband, if the dead spot is in the midlle throttle position ou could try lowing your needle a clip. Quote
dirtydownunder Posted June 5, 2011 Report Posted June 5, 2011 RS stators are notorious for being shit, but i dont wanna write that off straight away, you should test the stator by checking the resistance. find the stator plugs and disconnect it, look for the green and red wire (charging side) and ohms test them with a multi meter, should be 13.7-20.5 ohms. and check the white/red and white/green wire (thats the pickup ) and should be between 94-140 ohms. to test the coil, pull both leads off the plugs and both wires off the coil, and with a muti meter, test the two spade terminals on the coil (primary), should be .28-.38 ohms . and to test coil secondary, put one tester lead on a coil spade terminal and the other on the spark plug lead parallel to it, (check both sides) should be 4,700-7-1000 ohms. if the secondary doesnt work, pull the plug caps off the leads and try again. if you want to test your plugs caps, unscrew them from the coil leads and test both ends of the cap, should be no more than 5k ohms. i doubt your bike is making equal hp than tq, so if your bud with a dyno swears by that, hes wrong and prolly doesnt have a dyno, and god knows whats in your bike. what jets are in the carbs ? and what needles/clip position ?. do you know any one with a spare good stator or cdi ? have you inspected the reeds ? done leak down test ? Quote
Flyinrazrback Posted June 5, 2011 Author Report Posted June 5, 2011 I will just take it in and have it checked out. The guy who built it said it might be the right crank seal on the clutch side? Quote
Flyinrazrback Posted June 5, 2011 Author Report Posted June 5, 2011 I will just take it in and have it checked out. The guy who built it said it might be the right crank seal on the clutch side? If this is the case, I wonder what it will cost to get that fixed? Not really something I want to tackle. Quote
Flyinrazrback Posted June 8, 2011 Author Report Posted June 8, 2011 If this is the case, I wonder what it will cost to get that fixed? Not really something I want to tackle. Well found the problem. Plug cap on the right side went bad. Replaced and runs just like new again. Quote
dirtydownunder Posted June 8, 2011 Report Posted June 8, 2011 nice one ! that was easy huh. shop woulda charged ya a million and fuck something else. Quote
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