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Lonestar +2 +3 Upper and Lower A Arm Questions


tgriffin27

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I want to run flattrack this year and I just bought a 2006 banshee to do this with but I barely know all the mods that have been done to it, as far as I know my banshee is basically stock with a few bolt ons. Right now my banshee is 45 inches wide in the front and the track I want to run at has a 50 inch wide maxium rule. I have found a set of lonestar +2 +3 A arms (Upper and Lower) with tie rods and GYT-R skid plates for $300 dollars that look to be new. I am hoping that I already have longer +1 or +2 A arms on my banshee so I can buy these parts and not put my banshee over the 50 inches in width rule.

 

1. What was the width of the banshee from the factory so I can tell if mine has aftermarket A arms?

 

2. Is 300 dollars a good deal on these parts that are in the pictures?

 

3. Are +2 +3 A arms good to run flat track with or are they too long? I have been reading on here that most flattrackers are running +2 +1 A arms. Thanks for the help I don't want to buy these and not be able to use them.

 

LonestarBrand23UpperandLowerControlArms.jpg

GYT-RAluminumSkidPlates.jpg

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Those look like +2 (wider per side)/+1(forward) arms and if they are in good condition (ball joints and heims) that is a decent price for them. I'm running some custom +3/+1 arms (with 4/1 offset front wheels) and my width varies from 50" to 51" wide depending on my static ride heigth.

 

The higher the nose of the quad the more the suspenion droops which narrows the front end just slightly. Aligment, front wheel width/offset and tire width will affect your overall width as-well.

 

You'll be fine with those and if I recall correctly 45" is or close to factory width.

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Gald to hear that. I just called hm and he still has them for sale and he also has the lonestar rear axle to go with them he wants $200 for it.

 

As long as the axle is strait and the hub splines and the lock nut threads are in good shape, it sounds like it a good deal. I like using the adjustable axle because I can move the wheels in and out according to track conditions.

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What he said ^

 

One of my shee's is at 49.5" the other is 48" I actually like the narrower bike better. Dont worry about the rear right away. If you have the opportunity definitly get it but i run my bikes narrow in the rear, and like the handling much better. than it being as wide as the front.

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Thanks for the advice guys. I ended up buying everything he had left after he sold his banshee. Lonestar A-arms,Tie Rods,Skid Plates,Complete Rear Brake Light and LoneStar Adjustable Axle For $400 Dollars. Now I have to figure out how wide these are they don't look like +3's to me but I don't know much about suspension.

 

Banshee23A-ArmsandAxle.jpg

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Thanks for the advice guys. I ended up buying everything he had left after he sold his banshee. Lonestar A-arms,Tie Rods,Skid Plates,Complete Rear Brake Light and LoneStar Adjustable Axle For $400 Dollars. Now I have to figure out how wide these are they don't look like +3's to me but I don't know much about suspension.

 

Banshee23A-ArmsandAxle.jpg

 

Good Deal man, whatever you do don't run those top arm ball joints out so far tho, you want as much thread in the arm bung as possible.

 

Just measure you current arms (center of mounts to ball joint center) and then measure the new ones and you'll find out your difference.

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