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Switching back to Thumb


jonnypoo

what you like better twist or thumby  

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ok, here is dilemma.....i cant ride for shit with tthis twist throttle and it is really impairing my desire to go and ride.. i have had it on all summer and fucking hate it soooo bad.....i want my baby thumb back hehe....ok well here is question ....ummm i took the caps off the carbs and put the nerwe ones on when i got the twist...i also put the mixing screws in by drilling and all that shit.....and unplugged all the TORS stuff.....my queetion is how do i put the thumb back??? do i have to put the old caps back on??? what abour the mixture screws or whatever they are?? i had my stealership do it before cause i hate messing with carburators....evrytime i touch them things they go out of sync on me hehe.....just wondering what i can do .....PLEASE HELP or if anyone is close to michigan or indiana i will bring it up to you and then we can go riding and then drink a few hundred beer after we are done with riding.....plese please need some help...i am like near south bend....really close to buchanan, mi REDBUD motocross track, and lemme see kalamazoo isnt too far either....just want my Baby thumb back cause this twist is gonna get me foookin killed :shock: <---what i look like everytime i hit the throttle when going over whoops hehe

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When I first put a twist throttle on my bike I felt the exact same way you do. I also installed it the same time I installed my pipes :? I almost killed myself countless times when I first rode it, but after a few weeks of getting used to it I would hate using the thumb. IMO it feels more natural and i like not having sore thumbs anymore :D

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You can put all the TORS stuff back on and just leave it unplugged or you you can buy the thumb throttle cable from motion pro that works with the eliminator kit AND the thumb throttle. I have one. Works great. I was not a big fan of my twist for CC and MXing but I liked it in the dunes...

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ok cool thanks for responses....so i can use the cable that is on my twist now and pop it off and just put my thumb back on???/ or is it too long???? just wondering cause iwant to do it tonight......i just dont want to take the caps off the carburetors my myself cause i can do EVERTHING else and not have a problem but when it comes to them carbs i am a fucking idiot.....thank you :) (B)

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No, you just need to get a throttle cable that will go from the thumb throttle housing to the Mikuni carb tops.

 

My '96 came with a twist and I went back to thumb, I got the cable (Motion-Pro I believe) from Toomey for about $20. All you need to do is remove the old cable and twist throttle (which means removing the carb tops and slides), install the new cable through the carb tops onto the slides, route the cable to the thumb throttle housing, set the cable free play and sync the carbs. It's not that tough, if you have any questions along the way we can help out (it'll be a cold day in hell before I let a dealer even change a lug nut on my baby, much less touch my carbs).

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ok , well her ei am in my shop getting pissed at myself...i got the cable from a local jerk-off 27 bucks for damn cable tht he says will work...ok well i got that on the throttle...so here is problem ..............how do i connect the cable to the carb tops?? is there a bronze thing in there like before , with that fucking spring that is hellacious to get back on ?? i am assuming there is retainer and then wont the needles come out too when i pull the caps???..man i am so fristated this is bull shit i am going to get one carb .............this sucks what the hell i can hone and engince , i can gap rings, i can do all the suspension , and a head , but i ant do a carb...please try and give me step by step details?? i must be a moron ...i dont even understand how to adjust the carbs cable like you said f0r what slack???? sensitivy ?????? please help

 

sorry for being an idiont hehe.....i can ride i just cant work on carbs....

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No problemo;

 

Do one carb at a time, and make sure they are clean so you don't get any filth in there. Unscrew the carb top, and lift it up. The carb slide will come out below the top. When the slide is free of the carb, bunch up the spring against the carb top with one hand and hold it (there's a couple different methods here, you can try using a zip tie to hold it bunched up or you can "unthread" the spring off the cable, this is just how I do it), then with the other hand tilt the carb slide, there's a little gold retainer that sits in the slide and keeps the end of the cable from coming off the slide. Make a note of how this retainer sits in the carb slide because you'll need to put it back (it just sits in there, the tension of the spring holds the cable). Tip the slide upside slightly and the retainer should fall out. Don't worry about the needle coming out, you have to remove two phillips-head screws and take out the plate inside the slide to get it out, just be careful not to bend the needle. Once the retainer is out, push the cable in slightly and to the side and it will be free of the slide. Then you can pull the cable out of the carb top.

 

Reassembly is just the reverse, stick the throttle cable through the carb top, bunch up the spring and hold it in the carb top, hang the slide on the end of the cable (this is the tricky part, careful not to drop the slide), drop the retainer in the slide over the cable, let go of the spring, and thread the top back on the carb. MAKE SURE that the slides aren't reversed, the cutout on the bottom of the slide should face the airbox. Also, before you thread the top on, make sure the slide goes into the carb smoothly without binding, and the little alignment tab on the right-hand side of the carb lines up with the groove on the carb slide. As you drop the slide into the body it should slide up and down freely but should not spin in the bore. Also it should go all the way down without any resistance when you start the threads on the carb top (if it's not lined up with the alignment tab it won't slide all the way down, and when you try to thread the cap on you'll feel resistance of the spring being compressed).

 

When you get both carbs done, pull off the air filter and look down the carb throats, you should see both slides bottomed. Now route the cable the same way as the old cable (you may need to remove the front fenders and fuel tank to make sure it goes through the loop on the front framerail). Thread the cable into the thrumb throttle housing, and adjust the cable at the housing so you have free play, you don't want tension on the cable when the throttle is released (the throttle could bind or stick). You should have about 1/4" of free play at the tip of the thumb lever (best I can remember, you might want to double check that number). Adjust the cable at the thumb housing to get the free play right, and double check by looking into the carbs again that they close when the throttle is let off and move up and down smoothly as the throttle is pushed.

 

Finally, sync the carbs. I usually do it by sight; looking into the carb throats, barely push the throttle and see if one slide moves before the other. The adjusters are on the carb tops, long hex-shaped threaded thing with a nut that holds it in place. Loosen the nut and turn the adjuster (it doesn't take much, just turn them a quarter turn or less at a time) so that both slides move off zero throttle at the same instant. Once they are in sync, tighten the locknut on the adjusters. Verify the sync by opening the throttle fully and releasing it quickly; you should hear both carbs "click" shut in unison. There are more accurate ways to sync the carbs but this way works for me.

 

Any other questions let us know...

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well i have to finisht this up tonight cause i didnt get to yesterday ....ok so my air filter is ss till in the ari box how the hell do i see th throats while the aribox is hooked up???? oh well i will try ...thannks thoug o all help i really see to understand this more......now if i wanna change jetting and i take the carbs off and leave tha caps on do i have to re sync?????????? that is for later reference

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You should be able to remove the air filter and see the carb throats, you might need a drop light.

 

And if you rejet and don't remove the carb tops, you shouldn't need to resync the carbs (but it wouldn't hurt to double check it).

 

Meat's got some great pics on his site if it'll help:

 

www.thebansheezone.com

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