bmartinez01 Posted January 30, 2011 Report Posted January 30, 2011 does anyone know of a wbsite where i can get detail instructions on how to teardown and rebuild a topend for a 2001 yamaha blaster? Quote
Larry's Shee Posted January 30, 2011 Report Posted January 30, 2011 http://www.blasterforum.com/ Very good site, probably a sticky on that subject. Might be a linc for pdf for manual. Blaster has got to be 75% easier than Banshee, as if they are hard. Quote
crustydemon Posted January 30, 2011 Report Posted January 30, 2011 Blaster forum is where you need to go. There's a guy on there named Ken O'Connor that really knows his shit. He's also got a youtube channel with the name: koconnor07 heres a link. http://www.youtube.com/user/koconnor07#p/a/u/1/MxLwZoysd_Y Website: http://kenoconnorracing.com Quote
DirtDiggler69 Posted January 30, 2011 Report Posted January 30, 2011 Blaster forum is where you need to go. There's a guy on there named Ken O'Connor that really knows his shit. He's also got a youtube channel with the name: koconnor07 heres a link. http://www.youtube.com/user/koconnor07#p/a/u/1/MxLwZoysd_Y Website: http://kenoconnorracing.com Yup , Kens the man . I'm on Blasterforum as well , I have a 2000 Blaster and rebuilt the top end last year. Its really easy to do , The most important thing is the cylinder Bore/Hone and the quality components you use. I had a place called summit offroad in Florida bore and hone my cylinder and they sold me a wiseco piston matched to the bore . Then the re-assembly is simple , The MOST IMPORTANT THING YOU DO BEFORE INSTALLING THE CYLINDER JUG is wash it in warm soapy water , Multiple times and dry thoroghly . You will find very fine honing dust will still be on your cylinder wall and that dust if not washed out will shorten the life of your motor , too much and your rings may never seat and you just wasted money on a rebuild . always install the 2 new wrist pin circlips , and a new wrist pin bearing is cheap , get a new one too . lube everything with 2 stroke oil as you are installing it and lightly coat the cylinder wall as well . Use a new quality base gasket , you can use a LITTLE bit of gasket sealer , don't go nuts though , just a thin coat . Use a new Copper head gasket and follow the torque / retorque specs during your break in period. Break in is a critical part of the rebuild , this is done many ways , but the end result is this: You are just allowing the engine to run and go through some light heat cycles , this seats the rings , and doesn't put a lot of stress on the motor . If you were to just fire it up and go balls out , you'll break your new motor in a very short amount of time. Begin by letting the Blaster Idle , let it idle until the pipe gets hot to the touch. Then shut it down and allow it to cool , do this 4-6 times , allowing time between heat cycles to cool . Don't use a fan to speed the cool down process . Next go for a light ride , never going passed half throttle , and never get out of 3rd gear , just cruise along . Vary the rpm and don't over rev . Make sure you have your fuel mixed at 32:1 , thats pretty much the sweet spot for blasters and I suggest you use Maxima Super M 2 stroke oil . Its synthetic and has low smoke properties to it . If you still have that shitty oil injection system hooked up , get rid of it , if it fails you'll never know it and your top end will last about as long as Charley Sheen in Rehab . Once its broken in right , you'll wanna buy a handfull of spark plugs and do a plug chop and make sure you are jetted correctly . Good Luck Quote
Larry's Shee Posted January 31, 2011 Report Posted January 31, 2011 http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/how-install-cylinder-31635/ There you go Quote
bigblockbanshee Posted January 31, 2011 Report Posted January 31, 2011 That Charlie Sheen comment made me lmao. Quote
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