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Push start only then boggs down/wont idle


yosi

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Hey just like to start by saying im new to this forum, and ive been reading some posts up here and i think its great.

 

Now to my problem with my banshee i recently bought, it wont fire at all when trying to kick start it. it will only start when i give it a push start then it runs but not very well, as in it wont idle and i have to keep the choke open. But once it starts to rev in the higher rps it is fine, just wont idle. once it dies it can be started by the kick start in one kick and holding the choke open but starts to bog down again, and cannot be strated after that. to me i think it might be something to do with the fuel not entering the engine (dirty carburetor) or the jetting mabey (Im at sea level). Was also thinking about doing a compression test but would just like to get another opinion first.

 

I am running fmf gold series pipes with silencers, not sure what the jetting is (planning on cleaning carby and finding out), has a K & N air filter with outerwair and no air box lid, has new spark plugs, running 32:1, and the TORS have been disconnected but the boxes above the carburetor are still attached.

 

Any input wil be greatly appreciated.

 

sorry just realised its in the wrong forum section too.

Edited by yosi
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Welcome to BHQ !! Start by cleaning carbs one at a time , completely disassemble write down sizes, set float height inspect float needle valve. Sync carbs install choke crossover tube. Do comp test, WOT fuel off kick till gauge stops , threads same as plug. Do all diagnosis BEFORE tearing apart. Granted a weak engine will be hard to start BUT just because it's hard to start doesn't mean it needs to be rebuilt. Tired of everyone just saying rebuild , then you'll be back saying my freshly rebuilt engine is hard to start. JMO , your results may vary.

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Thanks for the reply and info, will hopefully get the carby out and cleaned when i have some free time. What if teh bike still does the same thing after the carby has been cleaned etc. Could it be the jetting because im not sure if it has stock jetting or not.

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Welcome to BHQ !! Start by cleaning carbs one at a time , completely disassemble write down sizes, set float height inspect float needle valve. Sync carbs install choke crossover tube. Do comp test, WOT fuel off kick till gauge stops , threads same as plug. Do all diagnosis BEFORE tearing apart. Granted a weak engine will be hard to start BUT just because it's hard to start doesn't mean it needs to be rebuilt. Tired of everyone just saying rebuild , then you'll be back saying my freshly rebuilt engine is hard to start. JMO , your results may vary.

 

Dude, I told him to check compression, I didnt just tell him to rebuild the thing...

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Ok so ive done a compresion test and looks like i will need the top end done :( because my left cylinder has compression of around 97 and my right cylinder compression is around 94 PSI. Unless it has something to do with the my reeds being broken or damaged letting the air to flow back out through them??

 

I also thought i heard some air escaping ( only very slightly) when i was doing the compression on my right cylinder thought it might have been that i didnt tighten the spark plug or the connection to the compression tester well enough so i tightened it and still heard it? might of just been the air passing through the connection tube. Do a leak down test mabey . . . . or just get the top end done and a new head gasket put in and then check for leaks?

 

Anyone one know how much a top and costs on one of these engines and what the best setup will be.

 

King regards

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