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engine rebuild


toolman

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Rebuilding a stock motor. Cranks checked out ok per the manual. Put new bearings and seals on the crank, it turned easy sitting in the case half. Put the sealer on the cases put the other half on and torqued the bolt per the manual. The crank seems to turn hard. I have not put the fly wheel on, if I grab the end of the crank I can not turn it. On the other side with the gears I put a socket on the nut I can turn it by hand( without a ratchet) it just seems real tight. I lubed the seals and the bearing. This not my first motor but seems to turn harder than the others.banghead.gif

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Rebuilding a stock motor. Cranks checked out ok per the manual. Put new bearings and seals on the crank, it turned easy sitting in the case half. Put the sealer on the cases put the other half on and torqued the bolt per the manual. The crank seems to turn hard. I have not put the fly wheel on, if I grab the end of the crank I can not turn it. On the other side with the gears I put a socket on the nut I can turn it by hand( without a ratchet) it just seems real tight. I lubed the seals and the bearing. This not my first motor but seems to turn harder than the others.banghead.gif

did you make sure to align the dowel pins on the bearings in the slots at the top of the bottom case. If not the bearing willegg shape and be hard to turn.

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Yes i have the circle clip on the bearing. It's a stock bearing so it is only a half of a clip. I think this is to control side load. It go's on the clutch side the fly wheel side does not have the groove for the clip.

the flywheel side has the crank seal which has a rubber oring around it that sits in the grooves this could cause friction if not properly aligned. did you lube the crankseals before assembly. they could just be dry and your feeling the friction from no oil on the seals and crank. It may be that the crank just feels tight because the bearings are new as well. try to freewheel it with the socket and see if it starts to spin easier. listen for noise. When in doubt split the case again and double check your work. its easier and cheaper to do it now rather then later.

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Took it apart cleaned everthing up again (I hate yamabond) put it back togather it is harder to turn now than it was. I had the crank trued and welded. But i put the new bearings on myself with a press so I'm thinking the crank may not be true. I'm going to take it apart tomorrow and check the crank run out. That's the only thing that makes any since to me it move but gets tighter.

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Took it apart cleaned everthing up again (I hate yamabond) put it back togather it is harder to turn now than it was. I had the crank trued and welded. But i put the new bearings on myself with a press so I'm thinking the crank may not be true. I'm going to take it apart tomorrow and check the crank run out. That's the only thing that makes any since to me it move but gets tighter.

good luck! hope you get it figured out. I'm a paranoid person myself when it comes to putting motors back together.

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Pulled it apart. Put the crank in a lathe between centers and checked with a dial indacator it is way out of spec for run out as much as .010 the most it can be is .002. Everthing else checks good over all and the width of the webs and rod side play. So could I have done it pressing new bearings on or maybe it got dropped at the shop. It is welded do you have to remove the weld to true it again or is it junk.

I had another crank that was not welded put it in and torqued every thing it spins free. I need to put new bearings on it I guess Ill freeze it and heat the bearings instead of the press?

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