CarvedArt Posted September 16, 2010 Report Share Posted September 16, 2010 i did adjust the slides as best i could. got them to be as close to exact as i could see. who knows if anything else needs adjusted though. they are pretty dirty but i haven't been able to afford the carb sync tool and the rebuild kit or i would have completely disassembled the carbs and cleaned the crap out. seems like the airbox side of the carb isn't really that clean. kinda oily and dirt stuck in there. not a good seal in the air box? t the bike is still pretty good on the top end but either im getting used to the power or its not as strong as it was two weeks ago... wish i knew someone around here that knew these bikes so they could tell me if the thing is bogging or sluggish off the line.... Dirt in the carbs could be from the air filter not being oiled correctly, rotting/breaking-down, or not having a good seal somewhere within your intake tract. You should be able to locate any leaks by spraying some WD-40 or similar around the outside of the intake sealing areas. If rebuild kits are not an option right now you could just use a can of carb cleaner and some compressed air--any amount of cleaning is better than no cleaning at all. Most everything in the carbs can be adequately cleaned without purchasing a rebuild kit. The kit just guarantees that everything is straight and clean. If you're careful you can disassemble your carbs without damaging any parts, soak them in some carb cleaner, scrub 'em up (with a soft cloth and/or plastic brush), blow everything out with some compressed air (if you don't have a compressor--canned air [for dusting electronics] will do the trick), and reassemble. The only thing that most likely will need replacing will be the needle valves (which you have already discovered). Here's a decent YouTube for manually syncing your carbs: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hpqeSpbq0PQ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted September 16, 2010 Report Share Posted September 16, 2010 choke tube is in place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sootman73 Posted September 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2010 yep choke tube is in place. whats the best way to seal up the air filter? it still has the stock box and when you dont have the lid on it doesn't seal tight to the side of the airbox. it would be nice to take the lid off and let some air in there but i cant if that thing doesn't seal up tight.... im gonna replace the crappy foam they used to seal the filter between the box and filter as its kinda deteriorated.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarvedArt Posted September 17, 2010 Report Share Posted September 17, 2010 yep choke tube is in place. whats the best way to seal up the air filter? it still has the stock box and when you dont have the lid on it doesn't seal tight to the side of the airbox. it would be nice to take the lid off and let some air in there but i cant if that thing doesn't seal up tight.... im gonna replace the crappy foam they used to seal the filter between the box and filter as its kinda deteriorated.... Apply some grease to the foam between the mating surfaces to seal the gaps and you can use a large binder clip, or similar, to secure the filter mount. You could also cut the lid up in a number of different ways: cut holes with a hole saw, cut the lid in half so that there are still mounts on the front to clamp it down, cut the entire inner area of the lid out leaving the molded filter braces, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted September 17, 2010 Report Share Posted September 17, 2010 a few things- yes actually, the coolant does return to the radiator when it cools off. that is why the rad. cap hose goes to the bottom of the bottle- so it doesn't just feed air back in. and, having the overflow hose routed to drip on the exhaust lets you know when it's overheating. fix the overheating issue, not the warning symptom. the recovery tank has to be completely full before it starts spitting out. 3 main things that usually cause the cooling system to hot-spit when filled correctly, but otherwise maintain fine. poor coolant condition, lean jetting, and bad impeller. next, if you want to open the filter up, figure out what will work for your riding conditions. one popular option keeping the box is a billet adapter that bolts in the box, so the lid is optional, and you can run a k&n. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarvedArt Posted September 18, 2010 Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 (edited) a few things- yes actually, the coolant does return to the radiator when it cools off. that is why the rad. cap hose goes to the bottom of the bottle- so it doesn't just feed air back in. and, having the overflow hose routed to drip on the exhaust lets you know when it's overheating. fix the overheating issue, not the warning symptom. the recovery tank has to be completely full before it starts spitting out. 3 main things that usually cause the cooling system to hot-spit when filled correctly, but otherwise maintain fine. poor coolant condition, lean jetting, and bad impeller. next, if you want to open the filter up, figure out what will work for your riding conditions. one popular option keeping the box is a billet adapter that bolts in the box, so the lid is optional, and you can run a k&n. AK is correct, the coolant will return to the radiator on the magnitude of a couple drams which in the grand scheme of things equates to almost nothing. It can also leak by shear virtue of how it was mounted from the factory if you ever climb or descend any hills. The tank can actually gravity feed and siphon off your coolant on descents; this is the "leak" that I was referring to. It can also exhibit this same "leak" if you get on it and bring it to a halt a few times. I'm not suggesting that anyone neglect a real leak due to an overheat condition; which you should be able to both smell and feel. It's more of a personal preference to not have caustic fluid drip onto the pipes that I spent a few ducks on; I have also relocated my tank to the front of the bike to mitigate this "leak." The primary reason for Yamaha adding the tank to the Banshee's design in the first place was due to federal regulations requiring off-road vehicles comply and not pollute the environment with hazardous waste (lead being main the hazard). It was more of a compliance afterthought than a well engineered solution for coolant recovery. That being said I 100% agree with AKheathen you should NEVER ignore an actual overheat condition 2-strokes will fail faster than you can say, ding-ding-ding if mistreated. Edited September 18, 2010 by CarvedArt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted September 18, 2010 Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 AK is correct, the coolant will return to the radiator on the magnitude of a couple drams which in the grand scheme of things equates to almost nothing. It can also leak by shear virtue of how it was mounted from the factory if you ever climb or descend any hills. The tank can actually gravity feed and siphon off your coolant on descents; this is the "leak" that I was referring to. It can also exhibit this same "leak" if you get on it and bring it to a halt a few times. I'm not suggesting that anyone neglect a real leak due to an overheat condition; which you should be able to both smell and feel. It's more of a personal preference to not have caustic fluid drip onto the pipes that I spent a few ducks on; I have also relocated my tank to the front of the bike to mitigate this "leak." The primary reason for Yamaha adding the tank to the Banshee's design in the first place was due to federal regulations requiring off-road vehicles comply and not pollute the environment with hazardous waste (lead being main the hazard). It was more of a compliance afterthought than a well engineered solution for coolant recovery. That being said I 100% agree with AKheathen you should NEVER ignore an actual overheat condition 2-strokes will fail faster than you can say, ding-ding-ding if mistreated. huh? i can tell you that i downhill some pretty steep shit, and if i put anymore foreward load on it, it will roll over. you pretty much have to stand it strait up on the nose to get the tank to leak like that. i wouldn't really call the coolant caustic, unless it's so old it starts eating away at your engine. it will leave some water spots, though, but they can be cleaned, lol. even off my white pipes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarvedArt Posted September 18, 2010 Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 huh? i can tell you that i downhill some pretty steep shit, and if i put anymore foreward load on it, it will roll over. you pretty much have to stand it strait up on the nose to get the tank to leak like that. i wouldn't really call the coolant caustic, unless it's so old it starts eating away at your engine. it will leave some water spots, though, but they can be cleaned, lol. even off my white pipes. I think these symptoms are temperature and/or bike dependent and I currently live in the desert. I have also experienced this on some Banshees in more moderate climates such as in the mountains of PA. As far as antifreeze is concerned the "Reserve Alkalinity" (causticity) is mitigated by use of stabilizers like borax, phosphate, or silicate to prevent acidic formation in glycol-based antifreeze. However, as antifreeze ages its PH can and does change which leads to a caustic state. I wouldn't compare it to the likes of hydrochloric acid but it is definitely caustic. I use Engine Ice (who also adds an anti-corrosion agent) myself and change it bi-annually so I don't fret the PH. Please don't take offense to this because I think you're a value-added participant on this site with a lot of good advice. I just have personal experience with this issue, on multiple Banshees, not always pertaining to an overheat condition. Here's a link to some one else who's seen the same: http://kuoi.com/~john/tips.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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