AdrenalineJunky Posted September 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2010 Choke tube is in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted September 16, 2010 Report Share Posted September 16, 2010 check that you have the correct bowl on the choke carb. when you pull the bowl off the choke carb, you will see a little jet, like the pilot, in the bottom of the hole the pickup tube goes in. pull the jet out, clean, and blow out the passage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrenalineJunky Posted September 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2010 Took bowl back off choke carb and it is the bowl with the jet in it and everything is clear. I know choke is working right cuz when it was running I opened choke and it immediately died. Well I decided to do some electrical checking for the heck of it. I also lowered my plug gap from .30 to .28. I began testing coil. My ohmmeter has 200, 2000, 20k 200k and 20m. Book says set it ro R1 for primary. I set it on 200 as it was lowest setting and got a reading of 0.6 and if I have it set right the book says it should be .28 - .38. I then tried checking secondary. Book says set it on R1,000 so I set ohmmeter to 2000 and I couldn't get any readings. I took plug caps off and tried directly to lead and still nothing. I still need to check stator and such but not sure if i'm using correct settings on ohmmeter. It is a digital Actron cp7665 digital ohmmeter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrenalineJunky Posted September 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2010 Got a reading of 8.65 with meter set at 20k for pickup coil resistance. Book says 94-140 so I dont know if i'm on right setting or what. Coil and caps checked out o.k. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted September 19, 2010 Report Share Posted September 19, 2010 ok this isn't related to the electrical....but are you shutting your fuel off when your done riding (as in shuttin the motor down then turning the fuel line off for storage?) my friends got a built up sled motor that had issues with a super hard start when it was cold.... it wound up being a pinched over-flow tube and slightly misadjusted carb floats.......basically if he didn't shut his fuel off the floats would allow the bowls to slowly continue to fill......and since the over-flow was pinched off it was flooding into the pipe...making it an absolute BITCH to start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrenalineJunky Posted September 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2010 So if my stator isn't specing out right is there any way that can cause it to be hard to start but run fine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrenalineJunky Posted September 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2010 Rode it around for a good while little bit ago. I got throttle response pretty good. It had a 15 T front sprocket before and I switched to a 14T. I figured it would be pulling the wheels like crazy but it doesn't. It seems to rev out real quick and can't really tell if it is making power or lean. Seems like when I get past around 1/2 throttle it revs quick and high. Can't really feel it pulling hard. Right now I have 27.5 pilots, clip on 4th slot, 330 main. I have T5's, VF2's, stock carbs, .060 Wiseco's, K&N pods. I am around 800 or so asl. I am in southeastern ohio. I haven't got to do a plug chop yet as I am still working some bugs out. Do you think I am going to have to go up on my main? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrenalineJunky Posted September 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2010 I definitely appreciate everyones input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrenalineJunky Posted September 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2010 O.K. so I did another compression test for the heck of it. Before I got a reading of 145psi in both cylinders when it was cold and before I had rode it and broke it in. Now I get a reading after warming it up and had ridden and broken it in yesterday of like 115psi and 125psi. Also I went ahead and did another leak down test and I have a couple leaks at the intake/reeds spacers. I am going to get rid of the reed spacers to eliminate less connections. I need to get shorter bolts. Anyone know what size the factory length bolts are and what size? Could the small air leaks affect startup? I knew it had to have small one atleast because it would stay idling high after giving gas. The plugs look dark and somewhat oily/carboned. I appreciate all the help you guys give. Couldn't do it with out all of you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted September 20, 2010 Report Share Posted September 20, 2010 stock bolts are 1" long ,an air leak can cause a starting problem but that compression worries more than anything,who bored your cylinders or did yo just get it honed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrenalineJunky Posted September 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2010 I just honed them using a FlexHone. What would cause compression to change like that? Is it usually higher when cold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrenalineJunky Posted September 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 Well it's always something! I was taking reeds out to fix the airleak and dropped 1 of the reed cages and the 2 inside petals broke off. Where is cheapest place to order new VF2 petals? Also, should I replace both cages while I'm at it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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