prssantana Posted June 25, 2010 Report Posted June 25, 2010 How much can one take without being welded? When my rebuild is done Ill be at 65mm with Vitos superstock and Im hoping to do a head with 20 or 21 cc domes. Im also doing reeds (unsure on what yet), and already have t5s and no airbox with k&ns. Im just wondering how far i can go before I need to worry about the crank. A new crank is in the future just not the budget at the moment. Quote
toytech Posted June 25, 2010 Report Posted June 25, 2010 How much can one take without being welded? When my rebuild is done Ill be at 65mm with Vitos superstock and Im hoping to do a head with 20 or 21 cc domes. Im also doing reeds (unsure on what yet), and already have t5s and no airbox with k&ns. Im just wondering how far i can go before I need to worry about the crank. A new crank is in the future just not the budget at the moment. I had just about all the bolt on mods on my stock crank with no problems Quote
James-26 Posted June 25, 2010 Report Posted June 25, 2010 I'm at 64.75mm's and I just found that my crank has pulled apart .030 Only other mods on my bike is FMF fatty pipes. Quote
bansheesandrider Posted June 26, 2010 Report Posted June 26, 2010 (edited) My crank seperated and let go with nothing more than a set of pipes and paddle tires(stock bore and pistons). I won't run a Banshee without welding the crank after that expierence. If the crank lets go, it will cost you around $700 to repair the damage, assuming you can repair the head/dome you have and there is not any major damage to the cases. Edited June 26, 2010 by bansheesandrider Quote
prssantana Posted June 26, 2010 Author Report Posted June 26, 2010 James when you say pulled apart what exactly do you mean? Im assuming seperated means the same. Quote
toytech Posted June 26, 2010 Report Posted June 26, 2010 James when you say pulled apart what exactly do you mean? Im assuming seperated means the same. the rod pin moved in one side leaving to much side play in the rod. Quote
AdrenalineJunky Posted June 26, 2010 Report Posted June 26, 2010 Keep an eye out on ebay. I just got one that was trued and welded, good bearings for $100. Dude had it buy it now for $250 and I was the only person to bid and won it. Quote
prssantana Posted June 27, 2010 Author Report Posted June 27, 2010 (edited) Thanks for the advice. Mine is in good shape for now but Im definitly going to get either an aftermarket or get the stock one taken care of. Probably a winter project since the rebuild is taking all i have for cash and then some. The life of an enthusist huh? Edited June 27, 2010 by prssantana Quote
James-26 Posted June 27, 2010 Report Posted June 27, 2010 James when you say pulled apart what exactly do you mean? Im assuming seperated means the same. Yes seperateing is the same as pulling apart leaving to much side to side play in the rod. Quote
bansheesandrider Posted June 27, 2010 Report Posted June 27, 2010 Thanks for the advice. Mine is in good shape for now but Im definitly going to get either an aftermarket or get the stock one taken care of. Probably a winter project since the rebuild is taking all i have for cash and then some. The life of an enthusist huh? If you wait, you will be taking a chance on it grenading and you will have to buy $30-40 worth of gaskets that you have just bought. Quote
AKheathen Posted June 27, 2010 Report Posted June 27, 2010 as long as the crank is in good shape, and bearings, it can handle most bolt-ons and less than 180psi cranking compression. more than that, and high rpms will effect what it can hold up to. it is always good to have it welded anyways, in case of ballance issues. Quote
prssantana Posted June 28, 2010 Author Report Posted June 28, 2010 So you guys suggest aftermarket or getting the stock one done? I think ill keep the stock stroke if not I'll go aftermarket. Just not sure how far Im going take this. Quote
SandDragIt Posted June 29, 2010 Report Posted June 29, 2010 I've been running a welded stock crank for 6 years with no problems at all...thats on a full drag ported 350 with around 200psi compression...always ran SUPER strong...I would just weld the stocker and call it good man Quote
AKheathen Posted June 29, 2010 Report Posted June 29, 2010 you would have to have the stock one checked out first to see if it is worth it. imo, the only reason to work a stock crank is to beef up a good one that will not soon wear out. basically, make sure the inner bearings are well within limits and not gonna fail anytime soon, as well as rods/bearings. then it would be worth having it welded, mabey even cryoed, if you want it damn near indestructible. no sence welding a worn one. outter bearing condition doesn't really matter, since those 2 and the seals are easily replaced. completely rebuilding a crank could cost just about as much as buying a new welded crank Quote
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