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I'm working on a project with some 450 shocks.

I'm looking for people running STOCK arms with 450 shocks.

 

My goal with this is to cure all the known problems with running 450 shocks on stock arms.

 

1) Is the shock to firm? too soft? Just right?

 

2) What type of riding do you do?

 

3) Do you ever notice the front end bottoming out?

 

4) Do you notice any "pogo stick" like effect with the 450 shocks.

 

5) Have you noticed any ill effects on your stock ball joints from running the 450 shocks?

 

6) How do these shocks compare to the stock shocks?

 

Thanks guys. If I can get mine dialed in with the stock arms. I am currently re-valving mine to my spec, but I wanted to get some feedback on what others were noticing with theirs, so I can work out a few bugs on mine, and hopefully offer a solution to everyone's problems...

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1) Is the shock to firm? too soft? Just right?

Just a little stiff if your a light guy

 

2) What type of riding do you do?

Dunes, trails and was MX

 

3) Do you ever notice the front end bottoming out?

YUP. Because they are not made for the bashee. They are longer shocks.

 

4) Do you notice any "pogo stick" like effect with the 450 shocks.

POGO is meaning that someone doesnt know how to tune in shocks.

 

5) Have you noticed any ill effects on your stock ball joints from running the 450 shocks?

You will blow out the ball joints because they are extending more then they are made fore

 

6) How do these shocks compare to the stock shocks?

Better upgrade over stock

 

7) .... NOT worth the time and money to put them on stock arms. Im not one to cut down the shock so I cut the bottom of the arm out in between the bottom mounting points. So I just cut a square out so the bottom so the shock would not hit. You will have to shave the top mounting shock points so it clears the 450 rez. If you really want the full effect of the shocks. Buy some +2+1 arms.

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1) Is the shock to firm? too soft? Just right?

Just a little stiff if your a light guy

 

2) What type of riding do you do?

Dunes, trails and was MX

 

3) Do you ever notice the front end bottoming out?

YUP. Because they are not made for the bashee. They are longer shocks.

 

4) Do you notice any "pogo stick" like effect with the 450 shocks.

POGO is meaning that someone doesnt know how to tune in shocks.

 

5) Have you noticed any ill effects on your stock ball joints from running the 450 shocks?

You will blow out the ball joints because they are extending more then they are made fore

 

6) How do these shocks compare to the stock shocks?

Better upgrade over stock

 

7) .... NOT worth the time and money to put them on stock arms. Im not one to cut down the shock so I cut the bottom of the arm out in between the bottom mounting points. So I just cut a square out so the bottom so the shock would not hit. You will have to shave the top mounting shock points so it clears the 450 rez. If you really want the full effect of the shocks. Buy some +2+1 arms.

Very well said. I agree on all points.

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Very well said. I agree on all points.

 

 

LOL, let me clarify something. I am not gathering information to decide whether or not to run these shocks on my own personal bike. There are a lot of people who WANT to run these shocks, and I am going to be offering a solution to the known problems. As of now, I have 3 sets of 450 shocks that I am currently working on. One set has already been shortened 1.5" to fit perfectly with stock suspension geometry; so that cures the balljoint issue. I just want to be able to offer a shock set up for a specific type of riding. These shocks are valved VERY VERY stiff from the factory, and are damn near identical to a Works shock. Valving plates are interchangeable, so are their shafts and pistons. Seal heads are different, as works uses a thread-in style, and the 450 shocks use a snap ring, with a beauty cover. Both the Works, and 450 shocks use a nitrogen "bladder", rather than an IFP in the res.

 

4) Do you notice any "pogo stick" like effect with the 450 shocks.

POGO is meaning that someone doesnt know how to tune in shocks.

 

No, Pogo means that that the rebound/compression is too fast. Some people like having their shocks valved very light, and like that type of setup. I've set up hundreds of shocks with VERY VERY light valving. Typically we just call them "Coil Carriers".

 

Can anyone else chime in with their personal experience? I guess the #1 question would be:

 

If you could change anything about the way the shock handles, what would it be?

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First off, if these shocks are to be used with stock arms, the shafts should be shortened to the proper lenght for stock banshee arms. The yfz shocks are longer than the banshee shocks which cause constant pressure on the ball joints, not good. Premature wear will occur from running these shocks over a period of time. The ball joint angle on the stock arms are not set to accept longer shocks. Just my opinion. I know Matt knows how ot tune and rebuild a shock, so I have no worries there beer.gif

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Hey man sorry if I came off on a bad way. Work was kicking my ass and no rest over the weekends because of the heat these days.banghead

 

A few things I would change

Softer compression valving. And moving them to a dual rate spring set up. All in all. If your cutting the shafts shorter, this will make for a great add on to a banshee that someone is not wanting to add longer arms on their bike.

 

I was going to PM you on seeing if you know how to rebuild the rebound adj off of elka shocks. The knob type that can be turned without tools.

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Hey man sorry if I came off on a bad way. Work was kicking my ass and no rest over the weekends because of the heat these days.banghead

 

A few things I would change

Softer compression valving. And moving them to a dual rate spring set up. All in all. If your cutting the shafts shorter, this will make for a great add on to a banshee that someone is not wanting to add longer arms on their bike.

 

I was going to PM you on seeing if you know how to rebuild the rebound adj off of elka shocks. The knob type that can be turned without tools.

 

My plan is this... I'm shortening the shafts an inch, and I'm playing with the idea of shortening the bodies an inch, as well. There are a few companies out there that sell a dual rate spring setup for these shocks, but by the time you pay for a revalve and re-spring, you might as well have bought some works... lol. I couldn't believe how stiff the valving was in these shocks out of the box. I softened the compression, as well as sped up the rebound a touch. I'll do most of the testing on my bike, and hope for the best. If it's a total flop, then it was a learning experience.

 

As far as the stock springs go... I'm not going to shorten them at all, yet. With the preload backed almost all the way off on the shortened shaft, they have about the same amount of preload as they did with the adjusters cranked down. So I'll run it that way for testing, and if the springs need to be shortened, I'll have a local spring shop cut them down and re-"flatten" the spring. I'm spending a small fortune on trying to get these things dialed in, but if I can get it right, it'll be well worth it for 450 shock owners.

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My plan is this... I'm shortening the shafts an inch, and I'm playing with the idea of shortening the bodies an inch, as well. There are a few companies out there that sell a dual rate spring setup for these shocks, but by the time you pay for a revalve and re-spring, you might as well have bought some works... lol. I couldn't believe how stiff the valving was in these shocks out of the box. I softened the compression, as well as sped up the rebound a touch. I'll do most of the testing on my bike, and hope for the best. If it's a total flop, then it was a learning experience.

 

As far as the stock springs go... I'm not going to shorten them at all, yet. With the preload backed almost all the way off on the shortened shaft, they have about the same amount of preload as they did with the adjusters cranked down. So I'll run it that way for testing, and if the springs need to be shortened, I'll have a local spring shop cut them down and re-"flatten" the spring. I'm spending a small fortune on trying to get these things dialed in, but if I can get it right, it'll be well worth it for 450 shock owners.

 

Well I know the spring rate was a little much for trial riding when I had them on my stock arms. Adding them to +2+1 arms. The only thing I could see is stiffening up the Highspeed compression and. But other then that, I couldnt have been happier for a shock like that for the price. Hope all will work out for you.

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We sell a complete A-arm kit for the banshee, which uses yfz450 shocks and is extended +2 and uses the correct geometry with very little bump steer and you gain the full travel of the shocks we have tested and they work awesome. Their are a few members on this forum who have bought them from some of our vendors and love them. I will try to get some pics of them for you guys.

 

we see about 13-14" of travel.

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