Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I was thinking about buffing my plastic's, my idea was to start off with some 220 sand paper than 300, 500, 600, 1200 than torch to get the gloss back and then go over it with a buffing wheel, has anyone tried this also is there a better way. tell me what you think!

Posted

I was thinking about buffing my plastic's, my idea was to start off with some 220 sand paper than 300, 500, 600, 1200 than torch to get the gloss back and then go over it with a buffing wheel, has anyone tried this also is there a better way. tell me what you think!

 

Plastic is very soft so I wouldn't recommend anything rougher than 400 to start. Sand down until at least 1000. You will want to use a foam pad buffer with a cutting compound first and then a finishing glaze. Remeber to keep moving so you don't swirl the plastic by overheating it. I use a light mist of water along with my compound to prevent burning.

 

As with anything take your time and pay attention and all will be great!

Posted

I use product made by Optimum. They're a great product with no filler and it's low dusting. For best results, use products by Optimum, Menzerna, Pinnacle, Chemical Guys.. All they're products are top notch and will yield the best results. As far as pad choices go, I wouldn't use anything more aggressive than a finishing pad @ low speed on plastic. It takes no time to heat plastic to the point of melting by way of a rotary polisher. I'm an auto/marine detailer, for what it's worth. If you have anymore questions, feel free to ask me. I might be able to help. Good luck!

 

Ryan

Posted

I use product made by Optimum. They're a great product with no filler and it's low dusting. For best results, use products by Optimum, Menzerna, Pinnacle, Chemical Guys.. All they're products are top notch and will yield the best results. As far as pad choices go, I wouldn't use anything more aggressive than a finishing pad @ low speed on plastic. It takes no time to heat plastic to the point of melting by way of a rotary polisher. I'm an auto/marine detailer, for what it's worth. If you have anymore questions, feel free to ask me. I might be able to help. Good luck!

 

Ryan

 

Like Ryan said, using a quality compound will ultimately yield the best results, but the 3M compound at your local oreillys will do. The bottle will designate the contents as a cutting or finishing compound. There are also different types of polishers, rotary, orbital.... A rotary polisher is faster, but an orbital is safer for beginners because if you apply too much pressure it will stop spinning and start vibrating causing less friction, thus less heat.(my tool of choice is an pneumatic rotary polisher) Just like polishing anything whether it be metal, paint or plastic it is a step by step process that can be time consuming. Just take your time, keep the polisher moving, and keep compound on the surface. As a plastics engineer I have plenty of experience with plastic materials!

Posted

I've tried everything under the sun and I cannot for the life of me get these plastics to look good. I have wasted more money and time than I care to share. As far as I've experienced, you cannot take a set of used black plastics and buff them back to looking nice and shiny. I wish I would have saved all that time and money and invested it into a new set. So for those of you thinking about doing this, save the headace and your money and buy new.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...