Cali Posted April 3, 2010 Report Posted April 3, 2010 He guys I have a 2000 Banshee.I just rebuilt motor.Left side piston broke and had to split cases etc.So anyways new bore new top end.Problem is my clutch is slipping real bad.I have a brand new barnett clutch and basket.The peron I got it from had just put it in new,he thought that was the problem but it was a busted piston.Took it out yesterday and just rode it easy to break in engine.I noticed the clutch was slipping a bit.I took it out today and got on it a bit and can really feel it sleeping now.Could this just be adjustment on the pancake?I have plenty of andjustment on clutch lever.I have enough play but it wants to relase when its almost all the way out.Im running ATF trype F.Any ideas?Maybe clutch springs? Quote
volcrano Posted April 4, 2010 Report Posted April 4, 2010 He guys I have a 2000 Banshee.I just rebuilt motor.Left side piston broke and had to split cases etc.So anyways new bore new top end.Problem is my clutch is slipping real bad.I have a brand new barnett clutch and basket.The peron I got it from had just put it in new,he thought that was the problem but it was a busted piston.Took it out yesterday and just rode it easy to break in engine.I noticed the clutch was slipping a bit.I took it out today and got on it a bit and can really feel it sleeping now.Could this just be adjustment on the pancake?I have plenty of andjustment on clutch lever.I have enough play but it wants to relase when its almost all the way out.Im running ATF trype F.Any ideas?Maybe clutch springs? the atf shouldnt be an issue at all,its interesting someone confused a clutch problem with a broken piston lol.ok,its wierd you have alot of adjustment on your lever still and it grabs all the way out.i like to run my adj. screw on lever all in then 1/4 of its length out.then adjust the pancake to where when i pull in the clutch lever there is freeplay about 1/3 of the lever on the bars until it disengages clutch.that way you can adjustfor less freeplay if needed but i like my clutch to engage quickly off the bars,plus that wayyou know there is no slipping or impropper adjustment at cable because it engages as soon as you start letting it out not like alot of people that run theres to where it grabs at the end.its not only hard to grab on the fly,you could be slipping the clutch if its not totally engaged.your supposed to go by the arrows but with some clutches its way out.are you sure its a new clutch?could it be a used but "new" one for the bike?try adjusting the pancake the factory way which is unhook cable at lever,push the actuating arm by ur finger with no cable pressure on it and adjust the pancake till the arrows line up and lock it down.if that dont work try my way.ive never had a prob,my arrows are way the hell off,i got a magnum basket and fast clutch.also,make sure your rod and ball arent welded together,if they are you need to replace them both,and since ur that far,before you adjust,pull the actuating arm out of the case and make sure its in good shape.grease ur bearing while ur in there to for insurance.hope this helps! Quote
volcrano Posted April 4, 2010 Report Posted April 4, 2010 the atf shouldnt be an issue at all,its interesting someone confused a clutch problem with a broken piston lol.ok,its wierd you have alot of adjustment on your lever still and it grabs all the way out.i like to run my adj. screw on lever all in then 1/4 of its length out.then adjust the pancake to where when i pull in the clutch lever there is freeplay about 1/3 of the lever on the bars until it disengages clutch.that way you can adjustfor less freeplay if needed but i like my clutch to engage quickly off the bars,plus that wayyou know there is no slipping or impropper adjustment at cable because it engages as soon as you start letting it out not like alot of people that run theres to where it grabs at the end.its not only hard to grab on the fly,you could be slipping the clutch if its not totally engaged.your supposed to go by the arrows but with some clutches its way out.are you sure its a new clutch?could it be a used but "new" one for the bike?try adjusting the pancake the factory way which is unhook cable at lever,push the actuating arm by ur finger with no cable pressure on it and adjust the pancake till the arrows line up and lock it down.if that dont work try my way.ive never had a prob,my arrows are way the hell off,i got a magnum basket and fast clutch.also,make sure your rod and ball arent welded together,if they are you need to replace them both,and since ur that far,before you adjust,pull the actuating arm out of the case and make sure its in good shape.grease ur bearing while ur in there to for insurance.hope this helps! check pressure plate for wear also.if its worn down,jeff at fast sells new ones for like $20ish bucks Quote
Cali Posted April 5, 2010 Author Report Posted April 5, 2010 check pressure plate for wear also.if its worn down,jeff at fast sells new ones for like $20ish bucks I had the adjustment to far in.Back it out some and went out and rode it.Now perfect.Thanks alot for the advice. Quote
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