fastbanshee199 Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 (edited) a few weeks i ago i bought a cascade innovations hd clutch kit and the guy i ordered it through said to leave the rubber cushions out and that i wont need them. Is this true? I searched this and everything im finding is that i dont need them with aftermarket clutches. I replaced the clutch cable also with a motion pro one but the problem im having with my clutch is when the bike is cold and i pull the clutch in it will drag like im not pulling the clutch in at all. i aligned the arrows on top of the engine as well and then adjusted the cable. the cable stud is almost adjusted all the way out and it still does this. i verified that the cable was the correct length and everything but im not sure what else to do at this point. i cant run the bike right now as i have the cylinders off and getting ready to ship them to hjr on monday for a top end rebuild kit, bore and hone, and he's also doing his aggressive mx port to the cylinders as well. Thanks for any help guys Edited November 13, 2009 by fastbanshee199 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbanshee199 Posted November 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 a few weeks i ago i bought a cascade innovations hd clutch kit and the guy i ordered it through said to leave the rubber cushions out and that i wont need them. Is this true? I searched this and everything im finding is that i dont need them with aftermarket clutches. I replaced the clutch cable also with a motion pro one but the problem im having with my clutch is when the bike is cold and i pull the clutch in it will drag like im not pulling the clutch in at all. i aligned the arrows on top of the engine as well and then adjusted the cable. the cable stud is almost adjusted all the way out and it still does this. i verified that the cable was the correct length and everything but im not sure what else to do at this point. i cant run the bike right now as i have the cylinders off and getting ready to ship them to hjr on monday for a top end rebuild kit, bore and hone, and he's also doing his aggressive mx port to the cylinders as well. Thanks for any help guys i did also use the hd springs as well and im thinking about putting my factory ones back in to see if that helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coupelx Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 what are you running for oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sammy Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 Go with three HD and three OEM springs. Just when you install them make sure you put them in HD/OEM/HD/OEM/HD/OEM. I'm running all six HD and everything is adjusted properly and Im not having any issues. Be sure the clutch basket isn't grooved or anything like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigborebanshee Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 (edited) If your talking about the big o-ring that goes inside the basket behind the clutch plates,then yes,i would reccommend keeping it in there.the rubber o-ring works like a spring and pushes the plates off the inner hub when the clutch is disengaged. The newer engines like the yz450 use 2 conical shaped discs that act like a corn spring or beveled washer,they are strong enough to deflect the clutch when its disengaged but light enough to compress under the force of the clutch springs. If you remove that that O-ring,you will experience "creep" . Barnett and some of the other manufacturers tell you to discard it when installing their clutches,i never have and never had any problems as a result. It does help if your clutch basket isn't grooved really bad,the cushion or metal deflectors cannot compensate for that. Edited November 13, 2009 by bigborebanshee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbanshee199 Posted November 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 If your talking about the big o-ring that goes inside the basket behind the clutch plates,then yes,i would reccommend keeping it in there.the rubber o-ring works like a spring and pushes the plates off the inner hub when the clutch is disengaged. The newer engines like the yz450 use 2 conical shaped discs that act like a corn spring or beveled washer,they are strong enough to deflect the clutch when its disengaged but light enough to compress under the force of the clutch springs. If you remove that that O-ring,you will experience "creep" . Barnett and some of the other manufacturers tell you to discard it when installing their clutches,i never have and never had any problems as a result. It does help if your clutch basket isn't grooved really bad,the cushion or metal deflectors cannot compensate for that. I replaced the clutch disk's and basket rings on my gilrfriends predator and it had those same rings. there was one flat one and one that was beveled. my bike on the other hand didnt have those. The rings im talking about are the ones in between each clutch disk and there rubber. i replaced every other spring with my factory ones and still didnt really help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbanshee199 Posted November 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 what are you running for oil? spectra golden sae 80 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigborebanshee Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 spectra golden sae 80 I think that may be part of your "cold' problem..I don't run anything over 40 wt,but i change it often..If it clears up when the engine is warm,that explains your problem. Also use the adjustment on the clutch cover to set the arrows up,that way you can have plenty of room on the perch for adjustment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbanshee199 Posted November 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2009 I think that may be part of your "cold' problem..I don't run anything over 40 wt,but i change it often..If it clears up when the engine is warm,that explains your problem. Also use the adjustment on the clutch cover to set the arrows up,that way you can have plenty of room on the perch for adjustment Ill change it back to the red bottle honda stuff i was using before unless you have a better recomendation and see what happens. i aligned the arrows up with the cable un hooked and then adjusted the cable from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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