KickStartMyHeart Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 Ok, I traded my t-6's and $150 for an almost new set of CPI's and stingers. They are big bore pipes, but for that kind of a deal, I'm not going to hesitate. I have an '01 banshee with a fresh top end (.030 bore). This is the only thing done to the bike besides the pipes. I had my mechanic at the dealership install the TORS eliminator saturday, and put in 27.5 pilots in it because it was running lean. With that said, I put the pipes, tors eliminator and 27.5 pilots all in saturday. After all this was installed, we tried setting the idle. Well, typical banshee lol!!...we worked on the idle for over an hour and couldn't get the idle set. It won't idle unless you keep giving it fuel. I have boysen reeds in it as well, if that helps diagnose the problem here. I am clueless on what to do. My next mod is going to be the 4 degree timing mod to make up for the loss in bottom end power. If anyone has had this issue, please learn me on how you fixed it. Thanks everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coronakidd Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 Learn how to tune in your carbs not trying to be smart a__s but sounds like they need to be worked on also you need some major motor mods to make those pipes perform the way they should Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KickStartMyHeart Posted October 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 Learn how to tune in your carbs not trying to be smart a__s but sounds like they need to be worked on also you need some major motor mods to make those pipes perform the way they should Hey tuffguy thanks for the help. I posted so I could get some help on what might be wrong, not a smartass answer from you. So if anyone has some knowledge on how to fix the problem or insight on what might be wrong with the carbs, please lemme know. Oh and thanks for the help coronakidd...i'd prolly have better luck asking a 3 yr old. Good day to ya! lol! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98_shee Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 Did you have the idle screws installed with the kit, what is your air screw set at where is your needle and did you up the main? Are you running the stock filter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sammy Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 With the Tors kit. To set the Idle you have to hold the throttle open to get it to idle the desire rpm and set the screws to where they just barley hold pressure on the slides with the throttle held where you want it. At least that's the way my motion pro instruction described it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KickStartMyHeart Posted October 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 With the Tors kit. To set the Idle you have to hold the throttle open to get it to idle the desire rpm and set the screws to where they just barley hold pressure on the slides with the throttle held where you want it. At least that's the way my motion pro instruction described it. I am running a K&N stock replacement filter. I haven't messed with the main jets yet because I wanted to get the idle set first and dyno it to tune it and adjust the pilots and main jets accordingly. Of course I have to get it to idle before I can put it on the dyno and mess with the jets. The idle screw came with the kit and the yamaha dealership modified and installed everything. We adjusted the screws on the side of the carbs and also the ones on top of the caps and still couldn't get it to idle....????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97_banshee Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 when i had my cub i couldnt get it to idle either... so what i did it twisted out my screw up on my throttle housing til it held just enough fuel going thru the crbs for it to idle... might not be the correct way but it worked lol... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SAVAGE420 Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 when i had my cub i couldnt get it to idle either... so what i did it twisted out my screw up on my throttle housing til it held just enough fuel going thru the crbs for it to idle... might not be the correct way but it worked lol... lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sammy Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 It maybe a lean condition keeping it from Idling properly. Check it for air leaks, and try to at least get the jetting in the ball park before hitting the rollers. It'll save you time and money in the long run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KickStartMyHeart Posted October 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 Well before I put the tors eliminator on, it was running lean and had too small of pilots in it. we put in the 27.5's for a starting spot to get rid of it being lean. the main jets for sure need to be adjusted also. Once I get it to idle we can put it on the dyno to see if its running lean and what not and show us where to start for jetting. I'm new to the banshee's and am scared to death of burning the damn thing up. I just had the top end rebuilt and change the oil every 3-4 times out. I know its overkill on maintenance, but I wanna have a reliable machine and prevent major malfunctions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sammy Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 List all your mods, elevation and current temps. We can give you a pretty damn good idea where to start. If its just .5mil over bore with pipes, reeds, and a filter with no lid and your elevation is below 1000 ft. I would start around a 330 main 27.50 pilot, 4th notch down on the needle, 1.5 turns on the screws and set your idle like I described in the above post and go from there. You can use carb cleaner around your intake, reeds, carbs and seals to check for air leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KickStartMyHeart Posted October 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 List all your mods, elevation and current temps. We can give you a pretty damn good idea where to start. If its just .5mil over bore with pipes, reeds, and a filter with no lid and your elevation is below 1000 ft. I would start around a 330 main 27.50 pilot, 4th notch down on the needle, 1.5 turns on the screws and set your idle like I described in the above post and go from there. You can use carb cleaner around your intake, reeds, carbs and seals to check for air leaks. My mods consist of a new top end (bored .030) wiseco pistons. Pro design airfilter, CPI bigbore inframe pipes, Tors eliminator and thats about it. I ordered the timing plate to get 4 degrees of timing tonight. I live in Wichita, KS and its around 50 degrees here right now. Oh, and I got boysen reeds. I have the stock airbox with no lid if that helps too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sammy Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 Do you know what mains are currently in the carbs? Wichita is around 1300 ft ASL so the jetting will need to be a little leaner than average for SL. I would start no leaner than 330 just to be on the safe side. Its easy to jet down but not so easy to redo that fresh topend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03bansheeman126 Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 Not trying to get in your business but just curious who is doing your work in Wichita? Are you happy with their work? Jut wondering cause I'm in the same area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sammy Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 If I live anywhere near Kansas the only man that would touch my bike would be Jeff at F.A.S.T. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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