banshenstein Posted October 4, 2009 Report Posted October 4, 2009 I'M TORN ON WHAT TO DO GUY'S... DOING A COMPLETE REBUILD FROM THE GROUND UP. IM GOING WITH A CUB MOTOR BUT I HAVE A LITTLE ONE ON THE WAY AND JUST WANTING A BAD-ASS TOY FOR NOW SO WHEN I START MY SHEE, 8 X'S OUT OF 10 I WILL BE RUNNING AGAINST SOMEONE FOR JUST FUN... BUT EVENTUALLY I WANT TO GO STRAIGHT FULL DRAG. RUNNING ALCHOHOL, I HAVE PLENTY OF MONEY SAVED UP TO DECK IT OUT WHEN IM READ TO JUST STRICTLY DO DRAG BUT, I WILL BE RUNNING A CUB MOTOR, +4 STROKER, 6" SWINGARM, AND WHAT WOULD BE A GOOD CARB. SETUP FOR NOW? I WOULD LIKE TO RUN T5'S OR T6'S. I KNOW WHAT I WANT IN THE MOTOR BUT WHEN IT COMES TO THE PIDDLY STUFF I WANT TO SET IT UP THE BEST WAY I CAN FOR NOW AND TRY TO MAKE IT THE EASIEST TRANSFER TO A FULL DRAG MOTOR AS POSSIBLE. CAN ANY ONE SHED SOME LIGHT AND HELP ME OUT? THANKS![/b] Quote
278 Posted October 4, 2009 Report Posted October 4, 2009 So what exactly are you wanting to know? As far as pipes though the T-5's will be holding back that cub, especially if its a stroker, and the T-6's are definantly going to hold anything more than stock with a few bolt ons back. The T-5's would be better than the 6's but I would suggest some shearer's or CPI's. As far as carbs lets say you did a 421 cub set-up for a drag motor you could go with atleast 35mm carbs I would say some 37 or 38's would serve you well even with a little bigger motor like a 485 or something similar Quote
coronakidd Posted October 4, 2009 Report Posted October 4, 2009 use 35 pwks for gas when you get ready for full drag convert them to alky ,same goes for your cool head just change domes pipes run some shearer or cpis inframes change to shearer inframes Quote
banshenstein Posted October 4, 2009 Author Report Posted October 4, 2009 So what exactly are you wanting to know? As far as pipes though the T-5's will be holding back that cub, especially if its a stroker, and the T-6's are definantly going to hold anything more than stock with a few bolt ons back. The T-5's would be better than the 6's but I would suggest some shearer's or CPI's. As far as carbs lets say you did a 421 cub set-up for a drag motor you could go with atleast 35mm carbs I would say some 37 or 38's would serve you well even with a little bigger motor like a 485 or something similar SO I'M GUESSING AN INFRAME SET IS RAN LIKE THE STOCK PIPES AND THE FULL DRAG AS RAN OUT THE SIDE??? OK WELL LETS JUST SAY A 421 CUB WITH CPI'S OR SHEARER. GOOD CARB. WOULD BE A 37 OR 38? WHY NOT A 39MM? Quote
banshenstein Posted October 4, 2009 Author Report Posted October 4, 2009 use 35 pwks for gas when you get ready for full drag convert them to alky ,same goes for your cool head just change domes pipes run some shearer or cpis inframes change to shearer inframes SO.... ONCE AGAIN, WHY DO I NEED TO RUN 35MM OR 37MM? WHY NOT ALL OUT WITH A 39MM? BECUAS EMY GOAL IS TO ONLY SINK IN ABOUT $1500 OR $2000 AND BE FULL DRAG? Quote
AKheathen Posted October 5, 2009 Report Posted October 5, 2009 for now, and after, as stated you can run different domes, pickup an adjustible timing plate. an aftermarket cdi isn't a big thing for drag. get some vforce 3's and, as always with any carb, you don't want anything at all bigger than what the motor can flow. you will loose tuneability and power/acceleration. dual feed pingle valve to feed the carbs, and, of coarse, intakes to match the carbs and reeds. you may want to go ahead and get a lockup now, too. Quote
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