banshenstein

on the msd coil.... should i get just the coil or would it be worth me getting the kit? with the new cdi, coil, ignition enhancer, nicad battery. http://www.msdpowersports.com/atv_yamahabanshee.html <this site will take you to it let me know!

where could i find the coils?

SINCE THE STATOR MAKES YOUR SPARK AND WITH THE OLD SAYING MORE FIRE-AIR-FUEL..... MORE HP! IS THERE ANY WAY TO BEEF UP THE STATOR? OR MAYBE REPLACE IT WITH ANOTHER STATOR OFF ANOTHER ATV TO GIVE IT MORE SPARK?

DO THEY MAKE A CAP THAT WOULD COVER THE SWINGARM BOLT THAT POP INTO THE FRAME OR ANY KIND OF CAP?

IT DOESNT MAKE A SHIT IF YOU HAVE THEM CUT OR NOT WHEN IT COMES TO THE SPEED. ITS THE MOTOR PEOPLE... AND THE WAY YOU HAVE YOUR SHIT SETUP!!!! I AGREE WITH THE BIKE BEING EASIER TO CLEAN... AND IT IS A BETTER LOOK... BUT DO CONSIDER YOU WITH HAVE MORE STUFF FLY.... SUCH AS...ON TOP YOUR SEAT, PLASTICS, CONTROLS, AND MY BIG ISSURE IS YOUR GOGGLES MAN.... HIT A TREE BC OF THEM MUD ON MY GLASSES WITH CLIPPED FENDERS... I WOULD THINK ABOUT IT! IT ALL COMES DOWN TO WHAT KIND OF LOOK YOU WANT AND IF YOU DONT MIND GETTING A LITTLE MORE DIRTY AND A LITTLE MORE CLEAN.... BUT LIKE I SAID, CLEAN UP IS EASIER!!! HOPE THIS HELPS!

WHATS THE DIFFERNCE IN THE YUASA GT7B-4 & A YT7B-BS?

NEED SOME HELP.... MY BANSHEE NEEDS SOME PADDLE TIRE. WHAT FRONT SAND TIRES AND REAR PADDLE TIRES ARE BEST FOR ALL AROUND. HILLSHOOT, DRAG, AND PLAY....?

but how do i know which wires to crimp or solder together?

so from what it says if i just cut and tie them off together to make a complete circuit all i would need is a tether switch and as long as that tether switch is hooked up she will start everytime? will that create problems with any of my electrical parts CDI, solenoid, stator, etc... from working properly?

do they make a an eliminator kit to get rid of the headlight/kill switch assembly? if so where can i get it and if not is there a way to get rid of it and create my own kill switch?

I NEED A 14MMX10MM BALL-JOINTS. I NEED 4 OF THEM. DENNIS KIRK DOES NOT HAVE THEM. RICKY STATOR DOES NOT HAVE THEM. THEY ARE GOING IN A SET OF MAGNUM EXTENDED A-ARMS. I CAN FIND 1 HERE AND 1 THERE BUT I CAN ONLY FIND 2. ANYBODY KNOW WHERE I CAN GET 4 @?

WHAT IS THE SPECS OF THE UPPER A-ARM BOLT? IM TALKING ABOUT THE THE LONG ONE! IM NEEDING TO FIND A REPLACMENT! THANX!

wicked a-arms are made to fit the factory chock lenght which is 14.5 in. give or take a 1/4 in.

wicked a-arms are made to fit the factory chock lenght which is 14.5 in. give or take a 1/4 in.

What is the length of the works triple ressy shocks eyelet to eyelet?

i have +2 chromes and chrome tie-rods. i want what you have....

I have a set of LSR's front a-arms.... the yamaha ball joints i ordered are just so close to being the right size i mean they are just a hair to large. you can imagine the threads on the the ball joints. cut the threads in half and that is how to big the ball joints to fit through the a-arms. would i be able to bore the hole out just the little bit that i need too to make that work or will that weaken the a-arms?

does this jeff @ f.a.s.t. have a site?

I AM BUIDLING +4 MIL. STROKED CUB BLOCK W/ 68 MM PISTONS. +4 MIL. CRANK. I AM GOING TO BE RUNNING SHEARER IN-FRAME EXHAUST, DOMED COOL HEADS. WHAT SIZE CARB, DO I NEED TO RUN AND WHAT JETTING TO MAKE IT RUN CORRECT AND ABLE TO MAKE ADJUSTMENTS?

SO.... ONCE AGAIN, WHY DO I NEED TO RUN 35MM OR 37MM? WHY NOT ALL OUT WITH A 39MM? BECUAS EMY GOAL IS TO ONLY SINK IN ABOUT $1500 OR $2000 AND BE FULL DRAG?

SO I'M GUESSING AN INFRAME SET IS RAN LIKE THE STOCK PIPES AND THE FULL DRAG AS RAN OUT THE SIDE??? OK WELL LETS JUST SAY A 421 CUB WITH CPI'S OR SHEARER. GOOD CARB. WOULD BE A 37 OR 38? WHY NOT A 39MM?

I'M TORN ON WHAT TO DO GUY'S... DOING A COMPLETE REBUILD FROM THE GROUND UP. IM GOING WITH A CUB MOTOR BUT I HAVE A LITTLE ONE ON THE WAY AND JUST WANTING A BAD-ASS TOY FOR NOW SO WHEN I START MY SHEE, 8 X'S OUT OF 10 I WILL BE RUNNING AGAINST SOMEONE FOR JUST FUN... BUT EVENTUALLY I WANT TO GO STRAIGHT FULL DRAG. RUNNING ALCHOHOL, I HAVE PLENTY OF MONEY SAVED UP TO DECK IT OUT WHEN IM READ TO JUST STRICTLY DO DRAG BUT, I WILL BE RUNNING A CUB MOTOR, +4 STROKER, 6" SWINGARM, AND WHAT WOULD BE A GOOD CARB. SETUP FOR NOW? I WOULD LIKE TO RUN T5'S OR T6'S. I KNOW WHAT I WANT IN THE MOTOR BUT WHEN IT COMES TO THE PIDDLY STUFF I WANT TO SET IT UP THE BEST WAY I CAN FOR NOW AND TRY TO MAKE IT THE EASIEST TRANSFER TO A FULL DRAG MOTOR AS POSSIBLE. CAN ANY ONE SHED SOME LIGHT AND HELP ME OUT? THANKS![/b]