slopoke Posted July 16, 2009 Report Posted July 16, 2009 can someone briefly tell me whats involved in changing from gas to alky on 35pwks. thanks all Quote
gregrob Posted July 16, 2009 Report Posted July 16, 2009 can someone briefly tell me whats involved in changing from gas to alky on 35pwks. thanks all What motor are they on? If its a 4mil or smaller for sea level I would: Drill the dump tubes to .122 Put a set of .122 mains in it (use the same bit to make a set of jets or just install the main and drill all the way thru it and the dump) 68 pilot jet Buy and install a set of EGQ needles. Put them on the next to bottom clip Install a set of powerjets. (You can get them from hjr, k&t etc or ebay, or you can get the expensive dave moore ones) Open the powerjets all the way up and start from there. If its boggy in the midrange lean you needle to the middle clip. If you have to run the powerjet way open to get enough fuel take the mains and dumps to .125 If you have the powerjets almost all the way closed and still too rich, start working your main jet down. .120, .118, .116, .114 etc. .02 Quote
gregrob Posted July 16, 2009 Report Posted July 16, 2009 BTW you'll need a #31 numbered bit, that is .122 A 1/8 is .125 obviously if you need to go bigger Oh and DONT go bigger than .125. Also remove one float from the bowls and if you're running longer than 300' on a 4mil I would do a set of oversized billet bowls. If it's bigger than a 4mil I would do billet bowls anyway. Quote
slopoke Posted July 16, 2009 Author Report Posted July 16, 2009 thanks it is sea level and will be a 4mm. How much compression psi wise should I have to run alky? will 20cc stroker domes work? Quote
gregrob Posted July 16, 2009 Report Posted July 16, 2009 thanks it is sea level and will be a 4mm. How much compression psi wise should I have to run alky? will 20cc stroker domes work? They will work but not be optimum. You need methanol domes, and the psi thing is debated among builders. Some like more, some like less. What will the bike be doing? Drag only? Or play / drag or what. For a play bike I would shoot for 170-185 psi max and a little looser squish like .055-.060 For a drag only motor that can cool down after every pass you can tighten things up and run more psi Quote
BigRed350x Posted July 16, 2009 Report Posted July 16, 2009 your domes will work, but you will be missing out on quite a bit of power. Go smaller on the domes and once you get your jetting close to being dialed in, start upping the timing a little. I run my dune bike with 175lbs compression and 7ish on the timing. Quote
gregrob Posted July 16, 2009 Report Posted July 16, 2009 your domes will work, but you will be missing out on quite a bit of power. Go smaller on the domes and once you get your jetting close to being dialed in, start upping the timing a little. I run my dune bike with 175lbs compression and 7ish on the timing. Yeah but youre bigredslowtard and you dont know shit. Youre raptor wont even make it up a granny hill and all your shit is broke bwaahahahhahaha Quote
BigRed350x Posted July 16, 2009 Report Posted July 16, 2009 Yeah but youre bigredslowtard and you dont know shit. Youre raptor wont even make it up a granny hill and all your shit is broke bwaahahahhahaha =( I fail. Guess I will have to just put up some videos of my raptor at St. Anthony so everyone can see how much of a slow pos it is. Sincerely, bigredslowtard. Sorry for hijacking your thread dude. Quote
BigRed350x Posted July 16, 2009 Report Posted July 16, 2009 Maybe I should just under-paddle all my bikes so they LOOK like they run good. I hear that's what all the cool kids do these days. Quote
XxMeltIcexX Posted July 16, 2009 Report Posted July 16, 2009 .122 mains are a little big in my opinion. Why do you guys run them so large? What size motor is this? 35 pwks cant be that large of a motor. Quote
shanYE west Posted July 16, 2009 Report Posted July 16, 2009 We have 4mils over here that done even use power jets. I'm pretty sure their jetting is under .120 also. Quote
gregrob Posted July 16, 2009 Report Posted July 16, 2009 I dont run the jetting that big, I just said start there and work down. There are some of Kevin's motors running a .125 main/dump and still have the PJ's open a couple turns and they scream. Other motors and certainly other elevations dont like as much fuel. Hell I'm at a .103 main and PJ's OFF on my duner, but 8,000ft will do that to you. When I ride at home (6000ft or Killpecker 7000) I open the PJ's a little. I told him to start at a .122 main because jets are cheap and you always want to work rich down. Quote
dajogejr Posted July 16, 2009 Report Posted July 16, 2009 With 68 pilots he'll spend half the day trying to clean it out. Is this a stock cylinder, or aftermarket? If it's a stock cylinder without triple exhaust ports, you more than likely won't need power jets. That being said, I'd have them anyways just to be safe. If you're gonna start drilling, get a drill index set and a set of digital calipers. I'd be starting with a .122 dump tube and .118 to .120 main. Gut your gas cap, drill the vent tube out to .125 Get a Pingle dual feed fuel valve, and as said...for runs longer than 300 feet, larger bowls are not a bad idea. Quote
slopoke Posted July 16, 2009 Author Report Posted July 16, 2009 It is stock cyl for now. they will be full drag from HJR. Hope to go from t5's to sheer inframes. Quote
dajogejr Posted July 16, 2009 Report Posted July 16, 2009 Work with HJR to build a complete package. Domes, porting, pipes, clutch, gearing, etc. Too many times I see guys just buy this or that, piece it all together. Builders (HJR, FAST, etc.) have already taken the time to figure out what works best as a package. Too many times I see guys just get a motor back from porting, then asking jetting specs, etc. While the FINAL tune is always on the user, a builder can always get you closer than the general public. They know their setups better than John Q.... Quote
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