POORBOY350 Posted June 20, 2009 Report Posted June 20, 2009 well i have a 4mil cub and i've reallized its too much to do anything else but drag and dune a lil bit so thats what im gonna try to start getting it setup for. this is where im at right now: 4mm stroke, 68mm pro-lite wieseco=421 cub. 35MM pwk's, cool head 20cc domes, timing plate at +5, straight cut gears, cpi inframe pipes, uni filters, v force 3 reeds, lockout clutch, whole henson clutch basket and plates and all, not sure what gearing im running but its too low. it has a torchworks radiator in it i believe. i mean its decked out. but i have a couple questions. like what gearing should i be running cause whne i line up to race 2nd and 3rd hit the rev limiter so fast its not letting me use all the great power that is there. but in 4th and 5th on the top you can use it and it pulls like and raped ape. but my main thing is i know this bike has hell a lot of potential and i like my stuff to run as good as it can. so i need help getting it to that point. cause setup right it would be almost unstoppable. i know i need to stretch it and lean it out and get some paddles first of all and get me a front sprocket a tooth or 2 bigger. any help i'd appreciate thanks. another question what kinda hp do yal think its puttin out? thank.s Quote
POORBOY350 Posted June 20, 2009 Author Report Posted June 20, 2009 also i weigh about 185 and wen im draggin it will prob be 300ft. but i wouldnt mind pointers on 1/4 mile either. just basically wanna know how to make this bitch as bad as it can be. Quote
r/atvshee Posted June 21, 2009 Report Posted June 21, 2009 On my old 4mm cub, I ran a 14 tooth sprocket up front and a 41 in the rear. T hat was with a +6 swinger and 21" 10 paddle haulers. If you plan to drag it, I hope you have an override... I learned that the hard way. Quote
POORBOY350 Posted June 21, 2009 Author Report Posted June 21, 2009 On my old 4mm cub, I ran a 14 tooth sprocket up front and a 41 in the rear. T hat was with a +6 swinger and 21" 10 paddle haulers. If you plan to drag it, I hope you have an override... I learned that the hard way. i dont have one and its already broke my cluthc plates before about to need new ones now. but thanks i need to count mine and see where im at Quote
dragbanshee98 Posted June 21, 2009 Report Posted June 21, 2009 i have to disagree with the "need" of an override... i do not have one and i manage myself just fine... go with 16/40 gearing a pull a 2nd gear start, and i did not see it mentioned... that power is no good if you cant get it to the ground, get some 12/13 paddle extremes and at least a +6 swingarm, and get the bike lowered down, frame level and swingarm just below level... that setup should do you pretty good :cool: Quote
POORBOY350 Posted June 21, 2009 Author Report Posted June 21, 2009 i have to disagree with the "need" of an override... i do not have one and i manage myself just fine... go with 16/40 gearing a pull a 2nd gear start, and i did not see it mentioned... that power is no good if you cant get it to the ground, get some 12/13 paddle extremes and at least a +6 swingarm, and get the bike lowered down, frame level and swingarm just below level... that setup should do you pretty good :cool: thanks man thats 100% right its no good if you cant get it to the ground. only thing is money for them paddles lol. i have a janessen -2 or +2 swinger now im thinking about cutting up and stretchin 6 or so in. Quote
POORBOY350 Posted June 21, 2009 Author Report Posted June 21, 2009 another question i wanted to ask was how hot do yals bikes get i mean mine gets HOT!!! AND how much would a good tune cost? Quote
dragbanshee98 Posted June 21, 2009 Report Posted June 21, 2009 another question i wanted to ask was how hot do yals bikes get i mean mine gets HOT!!! AND how much would a good tune cost? mine does get pretty hot but not enough to turn the pipes but i also run VP C12 fuel... for a tune do not worry about cost, just make sure that the guy who does it knows his shit! most of the time it should be the one who built ur motor... if not that then ask around and see who local people recommend... cause a bad tune could cause u a win or even a motor... Quote
POORBOY350 Posted June 21, 2009 Author Report Posted June 21, 2009 mine does get pretty hot but not enough to turn the pipes but i also run VP C12 fuel... for a tune do not worry about cost, just make sure that the guy who does it knows his shit! most of the time it should be the one who built ur motor... if not that then ask around and see who local people recommend... cause a bad tune could cause u a win or even a motor... WELL mine gets plenty hot enough to turn pipes it kinda bothers me. also found out what gearing im running is 15/40 but i need new clutches these are gone started slippin on me today Quote
Hilarious Posted June 22, 2009 Report Posted June 22, 2009 (edited) i have to disagree with the "need" of an override... i do not have one and i manage myself just fine... go with 16/40 gearing a pull a 2nd gear start, and i did not see it mentioned... that power is no good if you cant get it to the ground, get some 12/13 paddle extremes and at least a +6 swingarm, and get the bike lowered down, frame level and swingarm just below level... that setup should do you pretty good :cool: i am going to have to disagree with you disagreement of not needing an override. if you are going to drag race, i think an override is a must. that cub is putting out some power. and like yall said, its no good if you cant get it to the ground. well.....it's no good if you cant shift it either. you can definately shorten your times down the track just bangin the gears on an override. anything you can do to lighten up your bike will help greatly also. i would be on the lookout for a drag axle as well as a longer swingarm and a wheelie bar. Edited June 22, 2009 by Hilarious Quote
dragbanshee98 Posted June 22, 2009 Report Posted June 22, 2009 i am going to have to disagree with you disagreement of not needing an override. if you are going to drag race, i think an override is a must. that cub is putting out some power. and like yall said, its no good if you cant get it to the ground. well.....it's no good if you cant shift it either. you can definately shorten your times down the track just bangin the gears on an override. anything you can do to lighten up your bike will help greatly also. i would be on the lookout for a drag axle as well as a longer swingarm and a wheelie bar. the reason i said no to the override is because around here, tranny mods will throw him right up into the super mod and open classes forcefully... if he is not used to it very much, he will get beat pretty fast until he gets used to the bike... Quote
POORBOY350 Posted June 22, 2009 Author Report Posted June 22, 2009 thansk yal. and hilarious why the drag axle? i got a durablue now. nice lil setup was gonna stretch the janessen swinger i got now justt to keep all that setup. but i need clutches now its done destroyed them just from runnin it on the road i guess they have litterally started falling apart. now slipping real bad. its got plenty of power to be some competition tho. thanks for any info tho guys i think its mainly gonna take alot of just goin to ghte track and seeing what works best. Quote
r/atvshee Posted June 22, 2009 Report Posted June 22, 2009 thansk yal. and hilarious why the drag axle? i got a durablue now. nice lil setup was gonna stretch the janessen swinger i got now justt to keep all that setup. but i need clutches now its done destroyed them just from runnin it on the road i guess they have litterally started falling apart. now slipping real bad. its got plenty of power to be some competition tho. thanks for any info tho guys i think its mainly gonna take alot of just goin to ghte track and seeing what works best. Drag axles are lighter than other axles and narrower which means less rotational mass. Shaving as much weight as you can will help a lot when it comes to drags. You can have the biggest and baddest motor, but without the right setup, it won't hold its own very well. A 4mm cub without an override is a nightmare especially when racing it. I know that there are others on here besides myself that found it very difficult to shift under all that power. Quote
POORBOY350 Posted June 22, 2009 Author Report Posted June 22, 2009 Drag axles are lighter than other axles and narrower which means less rotational mass. Shaving as much weight as you can will help a lot when it comes to drags. You can have the biggest and baddest motor, but without the right setup, it won't hold its own very well. A 4mm cub without an override is a nightmare especially when racing it. I know that there are others on here besides myself that found it very difficult to shift under all that power. i aint got the doe for an override. but i'd love ot have one lol. what all do yal check and make sure you got tight and together and extra parts before yal go racing? Quote
Ineedmoney Posted June 23, 2009 Report Posted June 23, 2009 Well im no expert but what i found out that u should take is 1. two different types of tires. ( one for dry and rough dirt) ( one for wet and nasty dirt) 2 GAS 3Helmet 4. Tire guage and air tank (a small one) 5 COoler for of goodies. Quote
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