Replacing Crank Seals

[armyvet]

It WILL work..

 

 

Agreed,its not brain surgery here,its a seal from a late 60s design motor we are talking about fellas,its no big deal really to go astray from "the book" :biggrin:

[swrbansheeboy]

i know shaving the lip off and driving a new seal in with a little yamabond will work but....

 

if your not up against a wall and have about 2 hrs to play with imo your better off to just split the bottom end and do it "somewhat" right. if you clean everything up nice and good you can drain your oil out and re-use it, if your carefull you can re-use the clutch cover seal. at most you will need to buy a tube of threebond, some scotch bright and probably the clutch nut tab so you might be out 2 or so hr's and about $15 assuming you already have a flywheel puller and all the tools required.

 

you gotta pull the clutch cover anyway so why not just go all the way and do it the "mostly" correct way... look at it this way, it'll be one less thing to think about when your bike starts smoking more than usual...lol

 

anyway, just my .02....

 

Edited June 18, 2009 by swrbansheeboy

[blowit]

Thank you very much for your help, now if the bike needs it before the crank goes I can slap one in quickly until the winter time rip down and rebuild/

 

 

Just keep in mind that those seals rarely fail due to wear because they run in oil on both sides. Many times the crank develops radial play in the bearings or the PTO bearing frags and chews up the seal. I have seen many PTO bearings keep right on going even with the cages and maybe a ball or two missing. Smart ears will hear the "ball slapping" pretty easily. I lost track of how many engines I have seen with bearing noise down stairs.

 

 

 

 

B