evro Posted June 8, 2009 Report Posted June 8, 2009 I've been out on my new (to me) banshee about 6 or 7 times. I know the needle valve and seat need to be replaced because when shees not running, gas leaks out the overflow tubes if i don't turn the fuel cock off. Aside from this, it was running reasonably well until the last couple of outings when it developed a mid range bog (which led me to believe she was running rich). I had done some homework and decided that i would raise the needle clip 1 notch. I haven't been into the carbs yet so i thought it would be a good chance to see how its jetted also. So today i started by pulling the left carb (fuckin TORS shit has to go, what a pain in the ass for working on carbs). Its running 230 mains with 25 pilots and the needles are stock, on the 3rd notch. I raised the clip one notch, put the carb back together and then went to the right side. After getting into the right carb, i noticed that there didn't seem to be the same amount of the main jet visible as on the left carb. I got looking, and the main nozzle will quite freely move in and out of its port, taking the main jet with it because they are threaded together. This kind of explains why it went from running well, to being rich. What do you guys do to keep the main nozzle in place so it doesn't move? I'm wondering if the last owner had the same problem with the left carb because when i looked into it, it looked like the inside of the carb was dinged right beside the nozzle in two places. Pops suggested that maybe they used a small punch to burr the edge of the nozzle and the carb housing to keep everything in place. Have any of you guys encountered this before, and what are your thoughts? I'm going to get rebuild kits anyways (and TORS eliminator) to take care of the needle valve and seat, plus id like to keep a few different mains on hand just in case. I'm just not sure how to tackle this nozzle. Likely, if i can solve this nozzle problem, i should be able to put the needle clips back on the third slot as well? Thanks in advance guys Quote
AKheathen Posted June 8, 2009 Report Posted June 8, 2009 haha, so you're saying the emultion tube is coming loose, right. well, there are supposed to be some brass washers that go under the main jet when you screw them in. it works as a retainer to keep them from poping out. they're ysually a bitch to pop out when cleaning, because of corrosion. i can mail you some if you can wait 'till i get home wednesday, or you can buy some at a local atv shop. Quote
evro Posted June 9, 2009 Author Report Posted June 9, 2009 emultion tube, you say. thanks for the correct terminology. lol. i've got the right carb sitting in front of me. i don't have the left for comparison but its pretty obvious that a washer will solve the problem. thanks heathen. i'll try my local guy first. for everything i've spent there in the last 6 months, i'm pretty sure he'll just toss a couple washers across the counter. With K&N filter, full DG exhaust and an open airbox, does a 25 pilot and 230 main sound close to you? The quad was running great until just recently and it never overheated once. I've got a trail tech temperature gauge. I'm at 1600+ ft and running 15 C (50 F) - 30 C (90 F). Most of the guys that i can compare with on the setup thread are running 270+. If i make the switch from the airbox to pods what kind of a jump should i try on the mains? 250 maybe? And should i fuck with the pilots? Quote
AKheathen Posted June 9, 2009 Report Posted June 9, 2009 230 is actually pretty lean, even for 1600, and 90*. was it jetted for a snorkel/lid? that would make more sense. not much difference between open box, and pods, mabey 1/2 a main size, but people do +1 or leave the same on a case by case basis. i would pick up some 270, 260, and 250's for the temp differencees and start high. if you're not experienced in recognising how lean mains feel, you might not notice how much power you could be loosing and/or damage. to the pistons. leave the pilots. they are fine. just adjust the airscrews once in a while, for ambient condition changes. Quote
evro Posted June 10, 2009 Author Report Posted June 10, 2009 Stopped in at the shop today and they gave me a phillips driver, 6 ml socket, and 2 dental picks then sent me out to their old shed and a pile of probably 150 old carbs. I found a bank of 4 mikunis off an old inline and was able to get all four washers out so i'm back in business. :thumbsup: I sure do appreciate your offer to hook me up though. Thanks man. I was thinking that 230 mains sounded lean but that was how my buddy ran it for 4 years....but you're right about it being jetted for the lid, that is how he ran it. I'll be calling Jeff tomorrow for my TORS eliminator, carb kits, and recommended jets...and maybe K&N pods as well. I'll have to see. I don't really get into water at all except for early in the season when there is still a bit of snow on the trails. Plus i can keep the airbox on until it dries up. I'll likely head out tomorrow and put the carbs back together (and the lid back on the airbox) so i can run this weekend without doing any damage but i'll keep you posted with my jetting adventures after all my parts get here. Thanks again bro, you've been a big help and i appreciate you responding to my post that no one else seemed to want to touch. later heathen. Quote
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