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what have i bought?


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I recently purchased a 1999 banshee for 600.00. It was a newspaper listing ad. I went to look at it thinking it was just a run ot the mill banshee with a set of pipes. Once I got there I saw trinity IV carved in the jugs. I went ahead and bought it. (almost forgot the guy said it was blown up) I got it home and started taking it apart and found it to have a trinity stage IV head also. I noticed the cases were new (no serial number) and it as an adjustable stator plate. I took the cylinders off and noticed they were ported extensively also they measure 70 mm. I saw "hot rod" wrote on the connecting rods and even the cases were ported. It has trinity stage IV wrote on it also. To make a long story short it had a broken piston skirt. NO damage to the cylinders. I installed new pistons and rings and cleaned everthing real good. Once together I checked the compression and cold it is 175. I cranked it up and notices someone has took the packing out of the T5 toomeys (or it atleast sounds like it). I warmed it up and took it down the road and WOW does this thing go. I have owned several banshees with just your normal bolt ons but none like this. My 450r will not even come close. I guess my main question is what is a trinity stage IV engine. The whole engine is apparently buitl by them. Also I have never had a banshee that shifted like this. It shifts better without the clutch by far than with it when uner hard acceleration. With engine off it is near impossiable to shift. Am I having trans trouble? Sorry if I rambled but I really do not know what I have bought. I have an ATV repair business but it is mainly utility and bolt ons. Nothing like this. Please anyone with knowledge please enlighten me. NO SA's PLEASE

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stage IV is Trinity's Drag/top end port job. It sounds like you go ttheir big bore kit aswell. There is a possiblity that the transmission could be a overide style. Could be a 4mil crank but you'd have to check the domes or measure the stroke.

 

Trinity offer many versions to their stage IV engines.

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If it shifts that good under full throttle with no clutch, I'd bet it has an override as well.

Does it have a lockup clutch?

Also, I'd be very careful of backloading (Letting off the gas and NOT pulling the clutch) if it does in fact have an override.

 

70mm pistons are big bore pistons, those cylinders had to be sleeved.

Anything over 66.5mm (.100 over) will need a sleeve.

 

Sound like you got a steal...good for you!

 

Karma can be a good thing!

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It did have sleves. What is an override trans? I just have never experienced one as hard to shift with engine off but yet so smooth just by bliping the throttle and no clutch. I mean as soon as you hit the gas you are shifting as fast as you can and it pulls hard without having to scream it. I haven't looked at the clutch side yet but plan to do so. I guess I am behind time as I work on more 4X4's and the other utility types. I have another banshee with T5's stock bore, aftermarket reeds and it is no where close. Like compare a corvett to a bicycle. Dunno but thanks for yall's help. OH YEA do yall think 170psi kinda high for pump gas? I know jetting and timing come in to play but ????? AND what is backloading? i ASSuME it is the pressure from like heel to toe? What will it cause and do i need to just put the tranny back stock?

 

Edited by slopoke
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I wouldn't run pump gas on a motor with 170PSI. Even though you should base octane requirements by compression ratio, NOT cranking compression..I think very few would tell you pump gas and 170PSI is a good idea.

 

Back loading is reving the bike out in gear, letting off the gas and leaving the clutch engaged.

In other words, the motor is slowing down the bike....

 

Bad idea for a standard cut override...it will bend shift forks if you keep doing it.

The only sure fire way to find out what kind of tranny it is would be split the cases and look.

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IF it is in fact an override, no.

Regular cut or dunable, slow trail cruising is not a good idea.

 

NO way to answer that 100%..but, if I was just playing in trails, I would't have an override.

 

UNLESS..they were wide open, roomy trails like fireroads, etc. But thick, whooped, wooded/muddy trails, no.

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No problem.

I'm having a lazy day at work...I got the time...:)

 

An override is a transmission (drums, star and gears) that have been cut in a manner that allow for full power up shifts without pulling in the clutch.

Here's an easy way to tell. See if it has 5 gears or 6. If it has 6 gears, it is not an override (6 gear overrides are available, but they are rare...VERY pricey and yours would've blown up by now if it had one)

 

If it stops at 5, you have an override.

 

The gears and drum are cut in such a way that the sacrifice is you shouldn't let the engine slow the bike down, rather pull the clutch and use the brakes.

 

A standard override does not like to be down shifted while being ridden, and shouldn't be backloaded. It will eventually bend shift forks.

 

A dunable override is very similar, but it has springs on the shift fork shafts to help keep the shift forks in a neutral position when not shifting the bike gear to gear.

 

The dunaable can be backloaded, but it's not a good idea to do this excessively above 8K RPM.

 

A dunable will not bend shift forks, but it will wear them out quicker.

 

Neither trans should be downshifted without the clutch being pulled in. The dunable is still an override, it's just more forgiving than a standard cut tranny.

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