2003LimitedBanshee Posted May 4, 2009 Report Posted May 4, 2009 Okay, so I've been around forever, and used the search, so don't go blasting me... Seeing as how I just ported my cylinders and I expect it to lay down respectable figures, I was thinking I should consider trueing and welding my crank. Question is this: When everyone references having the crank trued, I assume we are talking about making sure it is in phase? The reason I ask is because this would be easy enough to check with a dial indicator and a degree wheel. I could also spin the crank, but I've never heard a specific reference to having the crank balanced. If all that is done is checking to make sure it is in phase and then TIG welding the pins so it cannot come apart or out of phase, this seems accomplishable for me personally. Thanks! Quote
swrbansheeboy Posted May 6, 2009 Report Posted May 6, 2009 enjoy... http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=38113 Quote
RagunCajun Posted May 6, 2009 Report Posted May 6, 2009 Hell i thought it was more work than that. Hardest part for some is getting an indicator. BTW if you dont have one. Get a cheap ~$15 one made in china. Magnetic bases are about $10. Quote
swrbansheeboy Posted May 6, 2009 Report Posted May 6, 2009 (edited) i've actualy found that the hardest part is finding a good set of v blocks, like the cajun said you can actualy get a decent dial indicator and a mag base from harbor freight for like $25 when there on sale... Edited May 6, 2009 by swrbansheeboy Quote
swrbansheeboy Posted May 6, 2009 Report Posted May 6, 2009 oh, and congrats on makng 1000 posts cajun... Quote
2003LimitedBanshee Posted May 6, 2009 Author Report Posted May 6, 2009 Thanks swr! Where is eagle creek by the way? I'm down in Ashland, near Medford at the south end of the state. I honestly don't remember if I have a set of V-blocks, if I don't I can come up with a set very easily from some friends that run a local engine shop. He mentioned checking to make sure the crank is in phase, but didn't say how or how to adjust it if it is not. I would assume you could check phase as I described earlier, before you split everything and tear it down? I suppose I should also ask if the general opinion is that I should really consider trueing and welding at this point. With my porting on the cylinders I would hope for at least low to maybe mid 60's range. Knowing that really what is being checked is the runout, I would think the trueing is actually more critical due to the added RPM potential after porting, as opposed to the HP itself. Now, I can see though how the extra HP and load on the crank makes welding all the more critical so that it stays in phase etc. Quote
deckheight Posted May 6, 2009 Report Posted May 6, 2009 Link thief... :biggrin: :biggrin: enjoy... http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=38113 Quote
swrbansheeboy Posted May 8, 2009 Report Posted May 8, 2009 Link thief... :biggrin: :biggrin: who, me? i just get the info people need, that your vid? Quote
deckheight Posted May 8, 2009 Report Posted May 8, 2009 Saw it on Greenhulk and linked it here a couple months back for somebody asking a similar question. Makes me the original link thief... who, me? i just get the info people need, that your vid? Quote
RagunCajun Posted May 8, 2009 Report Posted May 8, 2009 Anyone know what's tolerance Hot Rod's uses for truing their cranks? Is it .001"-.005" like some OEM companies. I hope the biggest they allow is .001". Quote
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