Bad starter - Help please!

[Mad Pugger]

Hi guys hope someone can help.

 

My Banshee is a nightmare to start...

It was in bits for about a year as I slowly got all the bits to rebuild it, and as far as i remember it started fine before it was stripped. The pistons and rings were changed and apart from that nothing was done to the engine except cleaning of reeds, carbs etc. Then no spark, or at least a VERY weak spark and not all the time. Checked the stator and it seemed to be fine so I replaced the coil. The spark is better now. But it still wouldn't start. So I replaced the reeds with aftermarket ones and fitted a boost bottle. It just would not go. I tried pulling it and it eventually fired. Now it only starts on the kick start if the engine was stopped with the switch (i.e. if it stalls while on idle it wont start).

 

Any ideas? Its driving me nuts!

 

Thanks

Mike

[Mad Pugger]

Oh also, it has a K&N.

 

I am around sea level

Air temp is around 40 to 70 i guess.

 

[DallasGDub]

Good safe start would be to check your compression. You might need a bore and hone. Spark, gas, and compression are the main things you need to start. Sounds like you covered the rest.

 

[Mad Pugger]

I did a pressure test on it which seemed good, and the compression when kicking seems good, no different to the other banshee although I know that doesnt really say much.

 

It also misfires on one cylinder when cold but when hot goes great.

 

Any suggestions on jets? Standard exhaust, dual stage boyesen? reeds, K&N and Boost bottle.

 

Thanks

[DallasGDub]

What was the PSI on each cyl after you tested it? 110 or lower is no good.

 

Do you have the Tors?

 

Is is stock pipes?

What jets do you have now? Or did you leave it stock after the K&N was added?

 

Sounds like a combo of problems, jetting being 1 and compression being the other.

 

Any time you change air/fuel ratio, you will need to jet it.

[Mad Pugger]

It was completely stock after the rebuild, but had no spark, so after chainging the coil and it still not starting I started changing things, first the reeds, then filter and boost bottle. They were only put on as I had intended to do it after it was all running and run in.

 

Pipes are standard. Jets, as far as I know are standard. Where is a good place to get jets?

 

Is there a guide somewhere to pressure/compression test? It was so long ago I can't remeber how it was done let alone figures!

 

The lights have also sopeed working around the same time (right after the stator was checked I think) would this be related?

 

Thanks for the help so far!

[DallasGDub]

NP man. Sucks to answer a question with a question, but details help.

 

Your would be better off to start making a check list on issues as they all check out so you can trouble shoot what's up.

 

I would start with compression b/c that is very basic and easy. It will keep you from chasing your tail. Good to mark it off the list of basic needs and move on to the next problem. You said you only changed the rings and pistons. This can effect compression if you did not get a hone and needed it. (also means starting will be an issue).

 

Now as far as jetting, You said you added your K&N, boost bottle and new reeds, that changed your air/fuel ratio. Do you use the box lid and snorkel?

 

***side note.....go back to stock cross over tube and get rid of that boost bottle.***

 

For the lights, this could all be related to your starting issue. Hard to say right now. thats why it is good to start with the easy checks. I am sure others will start chiming in with suggestions. Better to get one issue out of the way at a time. Could also be as simple as a bad light switch or ground.

[Mad Pugger]

Don't worry about answering with a question! Its all help.

 

So I take it the boost bottles are not much good?

 

I will do a compression test when I get back. I assume there is a good guide on here somewhere. The reason it didn't get honed was that the bores were perfect, which amazed me as it was the first time since new the engine had been taken apart.

 

As for the lights, they were working when kicking when it had no spark, but stopped just after checking the stator, I would like to fix this sometime as it is quite hard to ride in the dark!

 

Thanks again for the help so far. I got this thing when I was 12 and love it to bits!

[DallasGDub]

Yeah, search for boost bottle and you will see what I mean. I had one on my old set up and everything that people said would go wrong, did go wrong. I just got lucky before it made a real problem.

 

A good bore is one thing, but a hone is another. It is always good to do both when you get new pistons so your all new and fresh. But some get away with just a hone and new rings. A hone is good b/c you need a good cross hatch on the cyl walls so the new rings can seat nice. If the cyl walls were smooth and shiny, the new rings will not seal good.

 

To test the compression: Test one cyl at a time. However, take out both plugs. Screw the tester in where the plug goes. Try to make it so you can see the gauge. While holding the throttle wide open, kick it over repeatedly. Keep kicking until the needle stops moving. This will tell you your PSI in each cyl. They should be close in #'s, 115-135 is good, 110 or lower is not so good.

 

Now....even if you have to buy a tester, and come to find out your compression is fine, this is still a very useful tool to have. You will use often. lol...

[Mad Pugger]

Infact I must have honed it, why wouln't I have!

 

Anyway, where do you get a compression tester from? Anyone bought them from the UK?

[AKheathen]

ok, i'm supprised this hasn't been asked, but is the choke tube in place/ good condition. problems there will be the same as having a 1/4" hole in the right intake. also, the slides must be in the right carbs, facing correctly; they also have a little relief hole under the cable retainer. the hole shouldn't be covered by the retainer. also, one of the float bowls has a little brass bead in the side of it. this bowl goes on the chokeside carb. all of these things will give you starting/lowend issues

[DallasGDub]

This is very true. So many small things can cause the problems your having.

[TexasBansheeMan]

Check the gap at the Coil pick-up and stator. you got weak spark. Also check the timing key, it can come out but the torque on the nut will keep it in place, causing this hit or miss when firing. When it fires and dies the stator slips just a tad (enough) to keep it from starting again, I fought this for 2 weeks last year, the moon key was loose inside the stator the whole time

[Mad Pugger]

OK guys, thanks.

 

I only ever stipped one carb at a time. The choke tube is (now) broken off but right at the outside. This happened about a year after the rebuild so is not helping not being able to use the choke, but is not the issue. However it is on the Left carb (the choke tube is the handle right? Or do you mean the tube that connects the carbs?)

 

Once it is running and warm, it (nearly) idles - it idles for a minute or two but other than that it rides great, maybe a little boggy low down, its hard to say as I haven't used it enough of late.

 

I will check the stator gap when I get back home on Wed.

[vulvafan537240]

OK guys, thanks.

 

I only ever stipped one carb at a time. The choke tube is (now) broken off but right at the outside. This happened about a year after the rebuild so is not helping not being able to use the choke, but is not the issue. However it is on the Left carb (the choke tube is the handle right? Or do you mean the tube that connects the carbs?)

 

Once it is running and warm, it (nearly) idles - it idles for a minute or two but other than that it rides great, maybe a little boggy low down, its hard to say as I haven't used it enough of late.

 

I will check the stator gap when I get back home on Wed.

 

 

the choke tube is the tube that connects both carbs. the broken plunger could be a problem though. you should need to choke it to start a cold engine. if it starts without being choked, its probably jetted too rich on the pilot/air screw. it would also make it die once it gets warmed up.