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Posted

I have a 99 banshee with TORS plugged in backfires runs like crap. Unplug TORS runs good won't hold idle unless you choke carb manually other side runs fine. out of ideas. anyone

Posted

Have you

1. cleaned out the carbs

2. jetted it properly.

3. checked compression

4. maybe needs top end rebuild

5. mihgt need new tires,

6. maybe its pissed at you because u dont know how to ride it.

7. I will give you 100 $ for it

8. Are u using premium gas. 93 octane to be exact

9. 32-1 would do nicely for stock engines

10. make sure its getting gas.

Posted
Have you

1. cleaned out the carbs

2. jetted it properly.

3. checked compression

4. maybe needs top end rebuild

5. mihgt need new tires,

6. maybe its pissed at you because u dont know how to ride it.

7. I will give you 100 $ for it

8. Are u using premium gas. 93 octane to be exact

9. 32-1 would do nicely for stock engines

10. make sure its getting gas.

all the above you wish $100 could do without smart ass remarks. thanks for wasting my time

Posted
I have a 99 banshee with TORS plugged in backfires runs like crap. Unplug TORS runs good won't hold idle unless you choke carb manually other side runs fine. out of ideas. anyone

 

 

 

TORS is doing it's job. You have a bad throttle cable or need to sync your carb slides. Again, the TORS is working. Probably cutting ignition when you chop throttle and when you get back in it, it pops as it picks back up. Either way, I feel confident in my diagnosis.

 

 

 

Brandon

Posted

So u have done all fo the above.

or r u jsut mad cuz of my smart ass remarks. :down:

Pissed because i'm stumped and nobody has any ideas top end rebuilt carbs rebuild new stator new plate new flywheel new cdi. kicks over runs good just won't hold idle. give me a little credit I do have mechanical knowledge. any help would be great

Posted (edited)
Just replied with your answer. 15yrs of ATV repairing. trust me :thumbsup:

 

I have sync the carbs but you think it's throttle cable? I'll give it a try one on the way should have it tomorrow. thanks for the heip if it works you are the man. keep you posted. should i leave TORS unpluged or plugged in

 

 

B

Edited by mrbigsacks
Posted (edited)

You should certainly be able to find a bad cable before replacing it. Remember also that there is cabling inside the TORS boxes. If they are sticking and not letting the slides come down right, that is a problem. There are contacts inside the TORS. You should be able to remove the main throttle cable and inspect for fraying and such. If there is a problem, it could be found in 5min.

 

If you only have one side idling, there is an issue there. I am going off your statements mind you. If you have a plugged jet, it will act similar but as soon as you said there was an improvement when unplugging the TORS, I went to throttle cables and slide balance.

 

 

The way the TORS works is there is a switch in the thumb throttle that indicates you are off throttle. If the slides do not hit their switches at the same time to indicated they are "off" too, this will enable a ground loop to cut the ignition. ie, sticky cable, bad cable, carb sync, ALL get put on the "junk TORS" bandwagon . It was a good idea, just needed more refinements.

 

B

Edited by blowit
Posted (edited)
You should certainly be able to find a bad cable before replacing it. Remember also that there is cabling inside the TORS boxes. If they are sticking and not letting the slides come down right, that is a problem. There are contacts inside the TORS. You should be able to remove the main throttle cable and inspect for fraying and such. If there is a problem, it could be found in 5min.

 

If you only have one side idling, there is an issue there. I am going off your statements mind you. If you have a plugged jet, it will act similar but as soon as you said there was an improvement when unplugging the TORS, I went to throttle cables and slide balance.

 

 

The way the TORS works is there is a switch in the thumb throttle that indicates you are off throttle. If the slides do not hit their switches at the same time to indicated they are "off" too, this will enable a ground loop to cut the ignition. ie, sticky cable, bad cable, carb sync, ALL get put on the "junk TORS" bandwagon . It was a good idea, just needed more refinements.

 

B

 

ok thanks for your help. gives me something to go off. but I checked the sync and it looks on if not very close. whats the setting for idle screws on TORS? do all stock carbs have choke hose between carbs?

Edited by mrbigsacks
Posted

I will almost be willing to put money on it that as stated above the slides are out of sync.

 

My bike was doing the exact same thing the first time I started it.

Got the slides right and it idles great...even with my 34mm keihin's.

 

As far as the tors goes....just leave it unhooked,its more of a pain in the ass then its worth.

 

As also stated above go through your tors boxes on the tops of the carbs,make sure there are no freyed cables,sticking etc...

 

You can get the carbs sync'd pretty close by eye use the adjustment knobs on the tors boxes to adjust them,but Jeff at F.A.S.T. Racing has a nifty lil tool that makes the job super easy if ya got the $50.00 for it.

 

Dan

Posted
I will almost be willing to put money on it that as stated above the slides are out of sync.

 

My bike was doing the exact same thing the first time I started it.

Got the slides right and it idles great...even with my 34mm keihin's.

 

As far as the tors goes....just leave it unhooked,its more of a pain in the ass then its worth.

 

As also stated above go through your tors boxes on the tops of the carbs,make sure there are no freyed cables,sticking etc...

 

You can get the carbs sync'd pretty close by eye use the adjustment knobs on the tors boxes to adjust them,but Jeff at F.A.S.T. Racing has a nifty lil tool that makes the job super easy if ya got the $50.00 for it.

 

Dan

 

but if I leave it unplugeed dosen't hold idle

Posted
ok thanks for your help. gives me something to go off. but I checked the sync and it looks on if not very close. whats the setting for idle screws on TORS? do all stock carbs have choke hose between carbs?

Yes..all stock carbs have the choke tube,they wont run right with out it.

 

The knobs on the tors is the idle/slide adjustment.

 

Dan

Posted
ok thanks for your help. gives me something to go off. but I checked the sync and it looks on if not very close. whats the setting for idle screws on TORS? do all stock carbs have choke hose between carbs?

 

 

Yes, choke hose between carbs is OE. Setting idle can be done several ways but we generally back both screws out until slides are bottomed out and adjust from there by mic'ing the slides. One thing you have to watch is just because they are ok at idle, does not mean anything at half throttle. This is why vacuum testing is important for good tuning. You should also hear the slides tap down at the same time when you chop throttle.

 

 

 

B

Posted
Yes..all stock carbs have the choke tube,they wont run right with out it.

 

The knobs on the tors is the idle/slide adjustment.

 

Dan

 

so back them out all the way and go from there? looks like no were to put hose. it won't idle without TORS but throttle response is ok little hesitence

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