deckheight Posted March 29, 2009 Report Posted March 29, 2009 Whats bad? Crank threads? Bolt threads? Both? Just take your time... If the threads are bad, personally I think they're decent, what should i do if they were stripped can I use a tap and die set to get the threads right or what would you suggest besides buying a new stroker crank. Threads are real fine and the grooves aren't that deep compared to a lug nut thread is that how all cranks are? Also sometimes if I tighten it too much it just starts spinning like I stripped the bolt what do you suggest? I am about to just weld the whole thing together!! jus kidding but I am pissed fo real. Those bitches on their 4 pokes are vroooming around the neighborhood while my shee is sick and they know it HELP! Quote
bamaboybv Posted March 29, 2009 Author Report Posted March 29, 2009 Whats bad? Crank threads? Bolt threads? Both? Just take your time... I think the crank is stronger metal so when the flywheel came off it stripped the nut instead of the crank bolt. But I almost got it together just waiting on the loctite to dry. Quote
bamaboybv Posted March 29, 2009 Author Report Posted March 29, 2009 You need to take valve grinding compound and lap the flywheel to the crankshaft. Clean it all off, then loctite the nut on and hammer it down to the torque spec or use a gun on it. So loctite it first, then tighten and re loctite? Sounds good Ima try that now that the flywheel is pressed on pretty good. It's pressed on like it was before I took it off. I could get the nut off but I had to work the flywheel off. That's how it seems now that I got it pressed good in line with the key perfect and even without the nut the flywheel wont budge so all I need now is to loctite the nut Quote
4u2nv Posted March 29, 2009 Report Posted March 29, 2009 (edited) locktite for sure i used red when mine happened and make sure you tourque it down to 59 pounds, thats what the torque specs are And loctite the the bolt not the nut but dont get carried away with it lol Edited March 29, 2009 by 4u2nv Quote
spurdy Posted March 29, 2009 Report Posted March 29, 2009 I had a damaged stub shaft on a brand new 4 mil crank. I chucked in it a lathe and indicated it in. Cut the end of the stub of and drilled a hole in the center (with the crank still in the lathe). Tapped to the appropriate size and pitch (had to order the tap) and threaded in a new bolt with green locktight. Finally, with the crank still in the lathe I cut the socket end of the bolt off and cleaned up the threads. Been running great for a whole season now. Much cheaper then a new crank. Good luck! SP Quote
deckheight Posted March 30, 2009 Report Posted March 30, 2009 :cool: :cool: :cool: Spurdy da man! Quote
bamaboybv Posted March 30, 2009 Author Report Posted March 30, 2009 I had a damaged stub shaft on a brand new 4 mil crank. I chucked in it a lathe and indicated it in. Cut the end of the stub of and drilled a hole in the center (with the crank still in the lathe). Tapped to the appropriate size and pitch (had to order the tap) and threaded in a new bolt with green locktight. Finally, with the crank still in the lathe I cut the socket end of the bolt off and cleaned up the threads. Been running great for a whole season now. Much cheaper then a new crank. Good luck! SP I got it on good now, but if I ever have to reset the timing then I'm gonna do EXACTLY what you said. That is a great idea. I'm gonna tap it good and long so I can cut as needed. Now I gotta find a strong enough tap and drill bit....thanx you da man!!! I might just let a good machinist friend of mine do it though I'm sure he can get er done Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.