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Posted
What about detonation with timing plate at +4?

 

its safe, just read your motor, if it pings, back the timing off....but as stated in the previouse 100 +4 timing threads +4 is more then safe...check the sticky at the top of the forum....

Posted
Just lose the airbox lid. The pro-flow K&N is fine. I wouldn't spend money to upgrade from that to pods. Advance the timing +4. Put in fresh plugs and do a WOT plug check to see if your jetting is good. YOu can have the head shaved 0.020'' and should bump up the compression about 20 to 30 psi. You should still be able to run pump gas.

 

 

 

Alright.. If my jetting is perfect right now with my current mods. Is is possible I'd still have to change jetting? Also is shaving my head a MUST if advancing my timing. Keeping in mind I'd like to keep my bike a reliable as possible.

Posted
Alright.. If my jetting is perfect right now with my current mods. Is is possible I'd still have to change jetting? Also is shaving my head a MUST if advancing my timing. Keeping in mind I'd like to keep my bike a reliable as possible.

 

 

head and timing plate can be done individually, +4 will give your bike more low end torque, making it feel faster or stronger on the bottom end, shaving the head will raise the compression and give you bike a overall better performance. both things are relatively cheap. 50 for complete RS plate with new flywheel puller from fast and 20-40 depending on where you take the head to get shaved and youll need a new gasket for it as well.. so youll be around your 100 dollars mark. you will see a increase in power and torque with those mods. both can be done individualy or together. and will be just as reliable as stock.

Posted
so you can go up to +7 with no chance of detonation? why does everybody say to only go to +4?

+7 is ok with a stock head, but +4 for higher compression on pump gas. +4 seems to be the majic # for most people.

Posted
Looking at getting an Aftermarket CDI Box for my banshee. I stumbled upon this "AMS CDI Stage 3" and "AMS CDI Stage 2" on Ebay. AMS CDI BANSHEE.

 

When i talked to the guys at Magic Racing they basically told me the same company makes all CDI's they just put a different name on them. So if i buy the 500 dollar CDI ill get the same results if i go with the 100Dollar box. Just wanted to get a feel for what you guys are running and if there really is a difference in boxes. If its worth the 100-500 bucks, Noticeable difference etc. SRP, AMS, Vitos and Trinity. Thanks

 

 

 

The CDI you are looking at is not worth the money, that is not to say all aftermarket CDI boxes are not worth the money. It really depends on what you plan on doing with the bike, what types of tuning tools you have access to (Dyno). For the most part a simple timing plate is all most people will ever use.

 

If you have the time, and experience, and a dyno (will still need to see if any gains helped in real world conditions) you can change the way the power comes on with a decent programable CDI by adjusting how much timing is added based off of RPM rather than just adding +4 degrees across the entire rpm range, You also have the additional option of adding a 2 step rev limiter on later bikes 97+ (Not sure how well this works with a 2 stroke).

 

 

As for the comment on all CDI's being made by the same company, this may be correct with some of the cheaper brands, but I know this is not the case with the Dynatek CDI's.

 

Just my $0.02

Posted

The dyna cdi I have was far from a waste of money. I can't even stand riding my bike without curve 3 programmed into it. It definitely makes a difference you can feel. I run the dyna coil as well.

 

The other cool thing about the dyna is I can program the curves any way I want. Curve #3 with 4 degrees added to it with the programmer is what I run though. I run a stock timing plate and stator.

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