AKheathen Posted January 19, 2009 Report Share Posted January 19, 2009 ok heres the rundown.... got me a manual from a friend. followed it to a T. usuing a fluke meter i got 111 from the pickup and nothing from stator..... also got 1 from primary side of coil and nothing from secondary (measuring caps from neg terminal on coil.... so is my coil and stator bad??? wtf you probably messed up a wire to the stator. wiggle the wires all the way up to the windings with the meter on it. it needs to read something to work. or you could've damaged a winding. test between the 2 caps, one could've been bad, or poor connections; the spark will jump across a small gap, and it will still run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ieat4strokes Posted January 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2009 when u say stator, cdi side. what exactly do u mean. i unplugged the white connector and tested the red and green wires coming from stator on the "male" plug. Also did the same for the wires from the pickup on the male plug. Pickup read "111"....... Stator read "OL" which im guessing is open lead? I took coil off of bike and measured the neg and pos terminals on coil and it was reading "1" and from the neg post to each spark plug cap i got zero......ive never used a meter to be honest. never have had to. im sure something had to have came loose i will double check soldered connections, all wires are still connected just maybe one is loose or weak, ill do ur method and test and wiggle....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted January 19, 2009 Report Share Posted January 19, 2009 Why are all the connections soldered? that makes removal/installation a total pain. A business card gap between the pickup and flywheel should at least get a spark, albeit a weak one. We've always used a matchbook in the absence of feeler gauges. You have a loose or broken wire. Are you removing the spark plug from the motor and grounding it against the block to check for spark? I would start checking all the wiring from the kill switch to the tail end. You can not short anything out on the system by uninstalling/reinstalling it. I'm still kinda stunned why everything is soldered...factory connectors with a little dielectric grease work just fine, along with some shrink tubing to prevent rubbing through the insulation. I'd peel everything off that harness before I started replacing parts. Not very often you break a part just by removal/re installation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ieat4strokes Posted January 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2009 yes i took out plug and touched it to head......in pitch black darkness and no spark. When i said connections were soldered i meant the wires going to stator itself, that are actually connecting to stator. The harness is completely unaltered as the bike was totally stock from the guy i got it from with exception on pipes. It still has all factory plugs, heat shrink tubing etc. and no splicings or added wires. I agree totally that just by changing timing plate shouldnt have killed my ignition. As far as pickup goes i used a buisness card, magazine cover and even notebook paper doubled over and nothing still..... the only think i moved electrically involved during the whole process was the stator... can i use some elec cleaner on the stator and resolder or add solder to the wires connecting to stator to ensure theres no loose wires? i even changed out plugs to rule that out. damn i wish one of u guys were close to tennessee. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted January 19, 2009 Report Share Posted January 19, 2009 Gotcha...you replied to someone when they asked if you connected the stator wires, and you said they were soldered. My misunderstanding...sorry... Ohm test the stator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R/C Hippie Posted January 19, 2009 Report Share Posted January 19, 2009 yes i took out plug and touched it to head......in pitch black darkness and no spark. When i said connections were soldered i meant the wires going to stator itself, that are actually connecting to stator. The harness is completely unaltered as the bike was totally stock from the guy i got it from with exception on pipes. It still has all factory plugs, heat shrink tubing etc. and no splicings or added wires. I agree totally that just by changing timing plate shouldnt have killed my ignition. As far as pickup goes i used a buisness card, magazine cover and even notebook paper doubled over and nothing still..... the only think i moved electrically involved during the whole process was the stator... can i use some elec cleaner on the stator and resolder or add solder to the wires connecting to stator to ensure theres no loose wires? i even changed out plugs to rule that out. damn i wish one of u guys were close to tennessee. lol I think there is a ground wire on the stator on the back of the plate take a look if its loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted January 19, 2009 Report Share Posted January 19, 2009 Yep...sure is. Also...it is kinda rare for the coil to go bad, but it is VERY common for the plug boots/end caps to go bad. You can get NGK replacment caps for under 20 bucks shipped. I'd pick some of those up for insurance... RC...where in Warren are you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R/C Hippie Posted January 19, 2009 Report Share Posted January 19, 2009 Yep...sure is. Also...it is kinda rare for the coil to go bad, but it is VERY common for the plug boots/end caps to go bad.You can get NGK replacment caps for under 20 bucks shipped. I'd pick some of those up for insurance... RC...where in Warren are you? 10 and ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ieat4strokes Posted January 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2009 Gotcha...you replied to someone when they asked if you connected the stator wires, and you said they were soldered.My misunderstanding...sorry... Ohm test the stator. I tested the stator via the white plug by airbox..... the GREEN and RED wires. I got nothing...... no reading at all. Tested the pickup wires from same harness plus and got 111. I check the ground and its crimped in that metal loom. so im sure its getting connection... is there any way to test stator itself? from/on the actual stator so i can at least know if the stator has a reading and that would let me know its in the wiring? Thanks agian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted January 19, 2009 Report Share Posted January 19, 2009 There are two sets of wires you test for the stator. The readings should be 100 off from each other. One side should be like 17, the other 117 on an ohm meter... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ieat4strokes Posted January 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2009 just wanted to touch base and maybe help anyone trubleshoot a similiar problem, got my shee back from a builder today and evidently my stator crapped out by me just by moving it. He said it was bad, that no wires were loose or no signs of damage on my part but just went out from me moving it out the way to install plate..... neways i got her back now and she's running fine. Installing coolhead tomm, hopefully coil dont shit on me by unplugging spark plugs hhahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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