+4 timing mod

[AKheathen]

as it states, basically. my setup has a really nice wide even feeling torque curve, withoutany real peaks or drops across the range. i know +4 will give more mid punch, but i don't want o loose torque back-up, or have my mid-top to overwhelm the low-end. if it does, what can i do to get it back?

[gregrob]

"give more mid punch", but i don't want o loose "torque back-up", or have my mid-top to overwhelm the low-end. if it does, what can i do to get it back?

 

 

OMFG DUDE, ROFLMMFAO AAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

 

I'M DYING HERE

 

 

BWAHAHAHAHAH.

 

 

Just try it and see what happens. Simple

[AKheathen]

"give more mid punch", but i don't want o loose "torque back-up", or have my mid-top to overwhelm the low-end. if it does, what can i do to get it back?

 

 

OMFG DUDE, ROFLMMFAO AAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

 

I'M DYING HERE

 

 

BWAHAHAHAHAH.

 

 

Just try it and see what happens. Simple

hey, i enjoy the fact that i can let of the throttle on a hill shot, to gain traction, and not loose power when i get back in it, and not have to shift down. i didn't wanna give a long, drawn out explination, but here goes. i haqve to travel down a verry icy highway 60 miles with verry limited daylight hours, then go through some verry technical trails, where having to shift really sucks, to get to some hills and open areas. i usually do my work inside, and multiple things at once between rides, because it's been below zero. aside from being inconvenient to work where i'm riddin, things tend to break easily in the cold. before my next ride, i will probably also have reed mods, and changing the silencers, so, i'm simply asking what to expect from the effects on the power curve. i know it'll make power, but i just want to know where, and how it will change. i don't ask many questions, and i'm always on here trying to help as much as i possibly can, when i'm not getting sucked into wasting my time with other peoples sqabbles and games i didn't think it was too much to ask for a little insight...sorry

[gregrob]

hey, i enjoy the fact that i can let of the throttle on a hill shot, to gain traction, and not loose power when i get back in it, and not have to shift down. i didn't wanna give a long, drawn out explination, but here goes. i haqve to travel down a verry icy highway 60 miles with verry limited daylight hours, then go through some verry technical trails, where having to shift really sucks, to get to some hills and open areas. i usually do my work inside, and multiple things at once between rides, because it's been below zero. aside from being inconvenient to work where i'm riddin, things tend to break easily in the cold. before my next ride, i will probably also have reed mods, and changing the silencers, so, i'm simply asking what to expect from the effects on the power curve. i know it'll make power, but i just want to know where, and how it will change. i don't ask many questions, and i'm always on here trying to help as much as i possibly can, when i'm not getting sucked into wasting my time with other peoples sqabbles and games i didn't think it was too much to ask for a little insight...sorry

 

 

Sorry dude, I was uhhh, feeling good last night I guess.

 

+4 Will help your powerband in the low rpms the most, and mid second, and wont make a whole lot of difference on the top end.

 

If you have a lot of compression and or timing, it can have a negative effect on the top end power, but makes it even stronger out of the hole.

 

But just doing +4 you will see a nice gain from the bottom up, without noticing any loss on the top end.

 

My point was to just do it, and if you don't like it, put it back....

 

I ran +5 on my stock stroke and loved it. The plates are only 35 bucks and its pretty easy to change, play around and see what you like. I wouldn't go over +5 though, depending on your compression and what fuel you're running, etc.

 

Install the timing plate and set to desired advance, and impact the flywheel nut back on but DONT put any blue threadlocker.

 

When you are sure you're happy, remove the flywheel nut and use some BLUE threadlocker, and impact back on and call it good.

 

My .02

[MikeNick]

hey, i enjoy the fact that i can let of the throttle on a hill shot, to gain traction, and not loose power when i get back in it, and not have to shift down. i didn't wanna give a long, drawn out explination, but here goes. i haqve to travel down a verry icy highway 60 miles with verry limited daylight hours, then go through some verry technical trails, where having to shift really sucks, to get to some hills and open areas. i usually do my work inside, and multiple things at once between rides, because it's been below zero. aside from being inconvenient to work where i'm riddin, things tend to break easily in the cold. before my next ride, i will probably also have reed mods, and changing the silencers, so, i'm simply asking what to expect from the effects on the power curve. i know it'll make power, but i just want to know where, and how it will change. i don't ask many questions, and i'm always on here trying to help as much as i possibly can, when i'm not getting sucked into wasting my time with other peoples sqabbles and games i didn't think it was too much to ask for a little insight...sorry

 

 

Just set it to +4 man and call it a day. You will notice a difference. I'm sure you won't regret doin it. It'll wake it up on the low end. Also you ride your bike 60 miles to get to those trails? Or did I read that wrong.

[AKheathen]

Just set it to +4 man and call it a day. You will notice a difference. I'm sure you won't regret doin it. It'll wake it up on the low end. Also you ride your bike 60 miles to get to those trails? Or did I read that wrong.

no, my bad, i drive 60 miles in my tahoe, then spend upto 45 min, tryin to get the bikes started because the ride cooled them to the core @20 below and ride down a 15 min mougled-to-hell trail to get to the riddin area, and don't wanna pack a bunch of tools, just an emergency kit and tow strap, and don't wanna waste a trip. the summer's a diff story.

and sorry gregbob, i was "feelin good" too last night and didn't mean to come off wrong. my wifes' cuz just flew in from the slope, and i just now got up to the mine for my 3 week hitch, so we were drinkin, and dreading today :biggrin: but i'm just tryin to calculate what to expect on my next ride.

[05.Banshee.SE]

no, my bad, i drive 60 miles in my tahoe, then spend upto 45 min, tryin to get the bikes started because the ride cooled them to the core @20 below and ride down a 15 min mougled-to-hell trail to get to the riddin area, and don't wanna pack a bunch of tools, just an emergency kit and tow strap, and don't wanna waste a trip. the summer's a diff story.

and sorry gregbob, i was "feelin good" too last night and didn't mean to come off wrong. my wifes' cuz just flew in from the slope, and i just now got up to the mine for my 3 week hitch, so we were drinkin, and dreading today :biggrin: but i'm just tryin to calculate what to expect on my next ride.

 

Lol. I was going to say how in the hell do you drive your bike 60 miles at once on the highway, and where the hell is this.

 

I was getting jealous...at least about being able to go on the highway, not about the 60 miles part.

[lokisbuddy]

http://oscodapress.com/articles/2009/01/14/news/news01.txt this is my first post here but i thought you guys might find this info usefull after the last post.

[nigels_world]

I was getting jealous...at least about being able to go on the highway,

 

Move out here to AZ...