NEW or USED banshee?

[blaster2006]

Aren't you glad you found this site, there are many builders who are on here frequently that ship stuff all over the world or would take a job from another country, I know for sure Jeff at F.A.S.T. will

 

yeah i am, the second i sell my blaster, i am guaranteed to get a shee , so ill be askin questions left and right and ordering parts from people form the forum, as i found someone who told me has alot of parts that i would need.

ill just need the help installing them .

im gonna go look at the 05 shee either today, or after tomorow, he said hes got 2 stock shees, and 1 modded shee, both the stockers are for the same price, so ill try and see which one is better and bargain him maybe all the way down to about $3000 flat.

[2slow350]

What kind of warranty did you get on then new banshee?? If I remember right, it was only about 90days if that when they sold them in the US..

[blaster2006]

What kind of warranty did you get on then new banshee?? If I remember right, it was only about 90days if that when they sold them in the US..

 

over here, at the dealer, the only thing they do is 1st servicing is free. there is no warranty.

[AKheathen]

over here, at the dealer, the only thing they do is 1st servicing is free. there is no warranty.

to help stimulate supply, i am inclined to tell you to buy new, but, you probably be just fine with the used one. go to an auto parts store, and pick up a compression tester, and test all 3. hold the throttle open and kick it till it stops going up. should be around 120psi, and within 5 lbs of each other. if it checks out, you shouldn't need a rebuild any time soon

[blaster2006]

to help stimulate supply, i am inclined to tell you to buy new, but, you probably be just fine with the used one. go to an auto parts store, and pick up a compression tester, and test all 3. hold the throttle open and kick it till it stops going up. should be around 120psi, and within 5 lbs of each other. if it checks out, you shouldn't need a rebuild any time soon

 

so, the compression tester just is done by removing the spark plug, and putting the compression tester, then i keep kick starting the quad whilst holding full throttle, until the piston hits the top? should the fuel petcock to the carb bo on off or on? ...

[dajogejr]

Turn the fuel valve OFF.

Remove BOTH spark plugs.

Make sure the kill switch and Key are both off.

 

Thread the tester in (Make sure the tester threads are as long as the spark plug threads, or you'll get a lower reading.

 

Hold the throttle wide open, and keep kicking till it doesn't move up any more.

The first 5 kicks will net you a lot, it could take 10 to 15 kicks after that to get the last 5 to 10 PSI....just keep kicking.

[blaster2006]

Turn the fuel valve OFF.

Remove BOTH spark plugs.

Make sure the kill switch and Key are both off.

 

Thread the tester in (Make sure the tester threads are as long as the spark plug threads, or you'll get a lower reading.

 

Hold the throttle wide open, and keep kicking till it doesn't move up any more.

The first 5 kicks will net you a lot, it could take 10 to 15 kicks after that to get the last 5 to 10 PSI....just keep kicking.

 

okay, and lets say the compression is low from both, or one is normal and the other isnt, what things will i need to buy? i was planning on getting a cool head with pump gas domes.. would that be okay? what other parts and how much would cost for a new topend?

 

oh and how much would a basic compression tester cost?

[dajogejr]

okay, and lets say the compression is low from both, or one is normal and the other isnt, what things will i need to buy? i was planning on getting a cool head with pump gas domes.. would that be okay? what other parts and how much would cost for a new topend?

 

oh and how much would a basic compression tester cost?

 

That's a pretty open ended question. It could need new rings and hone on the cylinder, it could need a fresh bore job and new pistons. You could get the top end off and realize it's more than that....

It's opening a can of worms. I'm not trying to scare you....but that's just how it goes sometimes, like quicksand....

 

I don't trust cheapo auto store compression testers. I've seen them vary and be false big time.

 

Craftsman make a nice tester for about 60 bucks US, not sure where you're from....

 

Of course Snap On, MAC and Matco make nice ones too...but you'll spend 2 to 3 times as much.

If you put motors together all the time, it's worth having... Doesn't sound like that's the case for you though....

 

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947089000P

Edited December 31, 2008 by dajogejr

[blaster2006]

just went to see the 3 quas he had, 2 was stock, 1 had decent mods, both the stockers was REALLY crap., one unrideable, one okay. the okay one had dual K&N pods on it, and re jetted. it was VERY strong, every time i pulled the throttle from 1/4 to like full for a second i feel it was going to wheelie instantly, but the tires were abit, not aligned, the kick start was extremely loose, and on idle, it would sound as if it gos off then fires back on and stays alive.

 

the modded one had t5 pipes on it, but it did not run cause of the carbs out of tune, i ntoiced that the air screw was allll the way out, not even in, and i could tell that the carbs were messed up, but it looked clean.

i might take a look at it after he fixes the carbs on it.

 

i guess im gonna stick to the first shee i saw, the 06 special edition, fully stock which i thought was in bad condition, but now i see it was great compared to the others i saw. but he wanted about $4,100 for it.

 

or i might end up just buying a new one, if all the quads are in terrible condition lol :S

[T_Shee]

man it sounds like the quads get rode really hard over there. from what you are saying maybe you should look into a brand new one. as was said before if you get a new one and take care of it you should be able to get a good amount of your money back after only a year and a half. its good that you are eager to learn and also that you know your limitations. to answer your questions if you buy a new one, all the maintnance items you mentioned will be fine to take care of it. if you only have it a year and a half i wouldnt think you would even need to take it to the dealer for anything. its good that you noticed things like the air screw out of the carb because those are the little things that will tell you if the owner has taken care of it or not. dirty air filters, carbs out of sync, rusty frames, broken fenders are some other things that will tell you. dont be too eager cuz if you get ripped off you could end up with nothing to ride and no money to fix your broken shee. good luck

[blaster2006]

man it sounds like the quads get rode really hard over there. from what you are saying maybe you should look into a brand new one. as was said before if you get a new one and take care of it you should be able to get a good amount of your money back after only a year and a half. its good that you are eager to learn and also that you know your limitations. to answer your questions if you buy a new one, all the maintnance items you mentioned will be fine to take care of it. if you only have it a year and a half i wouldnt think you would even need to take it to the dealer for anything. its good that you noticed things like the air screw out of the carb because those are the little things that will tell you if the owner has taken care of it or not. dirty air filters, carbs out of sync, rusty frames, broken fenders are some other things that will tell you. dont be too eager cuz if you get ripped off you could end up with nothing to ride and no money to fix your broken shee. good luck

 

thanks, but like i said one of the shees was somewhat decent, needed a new ball in the kickstarter, the quad with the airscrews all the way sticking out was the modded one he said he would repair.

 

the main problem with the running stock shee, the second one, was like i said, on idle it sounds like its about to turn off then it lives again, in my opinion, i think it could be that 1 cylinder runs great and the other is not, but since one is running, it forces the other to stay alive and run also, thus you hear it turning off, then re staying on from the working cylinder keeping it running.

 

or it could be some carb problems, which is easy to fix. if it is, ican say, look its running bad, give it to me for a cheap price, something like 2,500.. and maybe fix it up. but if a broken cyl, thats too much though.

 

theres still a few left, but they all want somewhat big amount of money.

[Banshee~]

IMO- try to find a used one that is in good condition and it should last you for a 1year and a half

 

Note: I bought my banshee new in December 2003 and the only repair i've had to make was changing out the clutch fibers and plates (around $80). This was caused by adding parts that increased the power and a lot of use.

Edited January 2, 2009 by Banshee~

[blaster2006]

IMO- try to find a used one that is in good condition and it should last you for a 1year and a half

 

Note: I bought my banshee new in December 2003 and the only repair i've had to make was changing out the clutch fibers and plates (around $80). This was caused by adding parts that increased the power and a lot of use.

 

yeah, you bought it new.

let me start off by saying, all the adds im looking at are arab sellers. im am originally half arab and half american.

 

i know arabs love to ride hard, and most arabs i know have a love for motors, cars and quads.

so where i live, they ride it hard, and maybe dont really take care of it, they just buy it and ride it hard.

now, most of them, really dont put any mods themselves or anything, the mechanic does all the job.

 

so im starting to think that they are all for sale, with like bad condition everthing, whether its an old top end, or most likely the bottom end ihas a problem somewhere or, with the clutch basket broken.

 

i think im most probably going to get a new one, and hopefully i can afford T5sand pod k&n filters. thats basically all i want. ( maybe a cool head down the road, if they are easy to install). i will be installing all the mods, so im not buying hard things to install like stroker cranks, clutch baskets etc.

 

unless i find a really nice shee which is used, ill take a new 09 shee off the showroom.

although the bloody dealers here keep increasing the price, from 6k$ its not $6,500 for a new shee.

 

- oh and here is a clutch question, which just occured to me, talking about bad bikes. let me start off by saying, on my blaster, i pop the clutch ( from neutral) put it into first, then ofc gas it and let go of the clutch slowly. now on my blaster, it starts to move slightly after the clutch is released at half way.

 

now, on the other ATVs i tried out, i noticed that when i release the clutch by about 1/5t, it already starts to get moving, does this mean it needs like a new clutch basket or? cause thats also one of the most common problems i notice with the used bikes i tried out