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Posted

i just got my shee running decent and now that i know my engine is good im ready to build over the winter. i ride mostly fast trails and some dune. prolly half the time im riding it im full bore so thats howits ridden. so far i have 28 mm pwks and would like to stick with them if possible, also have K&N pods and fmf gold series pipes. i hear that the biggest stroker u can go is 4mil without case work and i dont want case work so let me know if that not true. and also i would like to bore a lil but dont know how big to go? i also want to have kevin do my port work i want coolheads and reeds and new pipes b4 im done and have ordered an adjustable timming plate(chariot). i would like to run race gas also. just was lookin for mod ideas and limits with the 28mm and no case work. and also wat is the deciding factor on how much timming u run?

Posted
i just got my shee running decent and now that i know my engine is good im ready to build over the winter. i ride mostly fast trails and some dune. prolly half the time im riding it im full bore so thats howits ridden. so far i have 28 mm pwks and would like to stick with them if possible, also have K&N pods and fmf gold series pipes. i hear that the biggest stroker u can go is 4mil without case work and i dont want case work so let me know if that not true. and also i would like to bore a lil but dont know how big to go? i also want to have kevin do my port work i want coolheads and reeds and new pipes b4 im done and have ordered an adjustable timming plate(chariot). i would like to run race gas also. just was lookin for mod ideas and limits with the 28mm and no case work. and also wat is the deciding factor on how much timming u run?

 

 

See my sig below, And a 4mil is the biggest you can go with trenching.

 

Edit: you don't wanna bore more than you have too. Boring on a banshee will not gain you anything

Posted
so just clean up the cylinders and thats it?

 

If your going to kevin he will tell you whether they need a bore or not. Just be sure to send your pistons with the juggs.

Posted

yep, only bore when you HAVE to. And any big-bore kit that uses stock cylinders is a bad idea in my opinion. All you are doing by putting big bore sleeves in a stock banshee cylinder is taking away transfer area, which is kinda low to start with anyways.

Posted

so wat do i do about cool heads? i found in the search that the biggest u can go b4 u get big bore domes is 68mm. i tried to use the dispacement chart but cant figure it out. how big will my cylinders be at just a .020 bore over?

Posted

ok thanks. i doubt they will need more than that. and also everyone runs +4 advance timing and wat would u need +5 or more for.i just ordered my timing plate and was wondering. im putting my at +4 but was just curious?

Posted
any big-bore kit that uses stock cylinders is a bad idea in my opinion. All you are doing by putting big bore sleeves in a stock banshee cylinder is taking away transfer area, which is kinda low to start with anyways.

You're gonna have to explain this. I have a 68mm big bore kit, and my transfers look like they have plenty of meat left.

Posted
You're gonna have to explain this. I have a 68mm big bore kit, and my transfers look like they have plenty of meat left.

 

Same here. Most of the people that say a resleeved stock cylinder sucks dont actually have one.

 

I have resleeved stock cylinders (patriot drag ported 4 mill) that have the same sleeves. First bore is 66mm last bore is 68mm. Looking at the transfers by eye you cant even really tell.

 

I could see that being the case where you have the huge sleeves that go clear to the cylinder head studs.(404cc).

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