Starts hard but runs great?

[maxtrax]

I did a simple plug check after a 6th gear run and it was lean so I rejetted to 310 mains. I reset the pilot screws all the way in, ran it for a while and let it sit over night. The next morning I tried to start it and it was the same thing.

 

your starting problem is in the pilot circuit.

have you tried turning the air screws in almost fully seated?

 

Do the air screws need to be out a little from bottom or can they be lightly seated?

I still have to do a plug chop and I am going to get a set of 27.5 and 30.0 pilot jets.

[Stellar Performance]

If the pilots and airscrew are not affecting how difficult it is to start...you need to inspect your reeds. If the reeds are worn, it will still run but be VERY difficult to start. Even worn reeds will close once running due to the amount of back pressure applied when running, but they may not be closing enough when kicking it over. I would check them next.

[maxtrax]

Thanks. So am in understanding you correctly that to check them I need to remove the reed cages and make sure the reeds are closing?

 

Also, how often should I have to add to my coolant overflow. I remounted it in the nose because I was told it would cause a siphon when wheeliing if it was in the back. I can fill my radiator completely and the resevoir about 1/2 way and ride for about a tank of gas (I usually don't ride much longer than that). Then next time I go to ride it seems that the overflow needs to be filled again/is empty. No it isn't leaking anywhere unless it is internal.

[Stellar Performance]

When you inspect the reeds....check to see if they are warped or if there is an excessive gap between them and the reed cage. As far as the coolant overflow, the only time the overflow tank really comes into play is from excessive heat. The Radiator cap will open and coolant will flow. Next time you take it for a ride, empty the overflow but make sure the radiator is topped off. When the ride is over, let the bike cool and recheck the radiator level. If it is low, then either you are overheating or you have an internal leak. If coolant is getting into the cylinders via the head, it would make it VERY difficult to start. Your problems could be related. But if it runs like a champ once its started....thats not likely the problem.

[maxtrax]

Ok, so I did a compression check when it was cold and it read 115 on both sides, I have had it as high as 135 (but with a different tester) so I decided to pull the pipes and look inside. The RH cylinder and piston look great. However, the left cylinder/piston has some slight scoring on right side of exhaust port (left side when looking up the exhaust). I have not checked my reeds becuase I ran out of time.

 

I am wondering how much damage I could do if I just leave it? As long as both sides are running the same compression is it fine? (It is bored .040 over and I know the next size has to be .060 over so could I gouge it any deeper if I keep running it?) The scorring could be caused by a small coolant leak in that spot too right?

 

You guys are great and I really appreciate all the help!

[maxtrax]

I pulled the reeds off and they do have ever so slight of gaps on one on each side. I did take advantage of the open intake to take a better look at the piston/cylinder. To me it looked like a piece of wire was run through the engine.

 

When I went to order new parts the guy at the shop (who sold parts to the guy I bought the bike from) said that he had not been able to find one of his circlips for the piston. We both decided that he had dropped it into the engine and you can guess from there. The thing still ran but it was tore up inside. Either way, a rebuild is in store for me.