Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'TORS'.
Found 5 results
BOUGHT NEW SHHEE
djracing12 posted a topic in General Banshee DiscussionAll right so I bought this quad off a guy that couldn't get it running right, long story short I doubt you guys believe me but thats why im asking the PROS! Its got t5 pipes, uni filter, on stock carbs. TORS deleted. 280 mains, stock 25 pilots First thing I noticed was that the thing ran so rich it blew oil out the exhaust... WTF got all over my truck and dudes just like yea.. lol Got it home and the slides were in backwards with the flat side facing the air filter, and the sight window wouldn't line up with the dot. So I cleaned the carbs out (well like 3 times now) and switched the slides around and now it will not fire. When the slides are in the right way and the carbs adjusted right. 1-1/2 on screw and idle run in till touch and maybe 2 turns.. I can get it to run if you put fuel in the cylinders but it wont pull and fuel through the carbs with the slides in the right way.. Believe it or not ive switched to slides back around (the way dude had them) and it runs just as shitty as when i bought it. Ive double checked float height and slides are not sticking. THIS THING DOES NOT MAKE SENSE WHY IT RUNS ONLY WITH THE SLIDES IN BACKWARDS AND NOT HOW THEY SHOULD BE. I havent been able to get it to fire once with slides in the right way which leaves me stumped. Thanks a lot, Dylan
Hello all.. Im new to Bansheehq.com and to having a Shee as my main squeeze. Heres a bit of background on me.. I'm 36 and have been riding since I was 14. Started w/ a mojave and moved up to an 88' trx250r a couple years later. Since then ive owned quite a few 250r trikes, quadracers, a coule Shee's, trx450r, blaster, so forth and so on. Usually I pick up a bike cause its dirt cheap, tear it down and do a quick frame up on it so its pretty, and flip it. I really enjoy bringing life back to abused bikes for some reason. Anyhow, This is the first banshee Ive had as MY main ride. That being said, I'm new to the ins and outs of these bikes and would appreciate some input from you experinced guys out there. Im not a retarded douche like a lot of these new poster's i have read on here thus far. I have the tools/experience required to understand as well as complete any tasks recommended. I shouldnt say newbies are retarded but you know what i mean. Also, I have spent HOURS searching through past posts for info as to not waste anyones times w simple, already answered questions. . . I think. I apologize ahead of time for being long winded but I prefer to be overly thorough because I expect reply's to be thorough and equally well thought out.. I figure its better to waste my time typing possibly too much info, rather than wasting everyone elses.. That being said... here we go. So, I picked up a 2003 a couple years ago. Guy was supposed to squash the lein w/ my payment and get me the title but failed. Therefore I bought another bike a few months ago that had a clear title, etc. 2003 from couple years back: No title (not Hot), douglas beadlocks F&R, New rears, t5's, boost bottle, k&n, prm F&R bumper/grab, full skids, Virgin motor, paddles on rims, Misc bling.. bike runs very strong but looks quite neglected maintenance wise. New bike.. 2001: paid $1700.. Desert tank, cut plastics, tusk bars, twist, tors delete, UNI-pods, fresh top end, Paul Turner mids w fat boy 2s, Vforce2's, +2 a-arms, Elks stage 1's, trailtech lights, parking block off, braided lines, smoothies & paddles on polishes rims, brand new 22x8x10 shredders up front, 1.5 gal R50, and appears to be maintained very well.. super clean, reciepts for mods, etc. However, guy i purchased it from took it as debt payment so he had no first hand personal knowledge about jack shit but has a huge beautiful house w/ shop that you could eat off of. Guy seemed stand-up.. bout 55 yrs old. Bike ran like shit when i test rode it but it seemed like jetting and I saw enough good parts that it was worth it even if the motor was junk because the motor in my 03 was good so i bought it. And he gave me a couple weeks to come up w the cash so I couldnt pass it up. I live in AZ at 2800 ft elevation, i weigh 215, and ride aggresively compared to others my age around here it seems.. But maybe IM a total bitch compared to everyone on here.. who knows? So, 01' at home: Runs like piss. Open up the carbs and find a 250 main, 25 pilots and aftermarket needle.. and 30 pilots in the air filter side of the carbs intake (whatever tha jet is) . I open up the carbs off the 03 and find 280 mains, 25 pilots and aftermarket needles.. with factory airfilter side of carbs intake jets.. 2.4 or 1.6 or something like that. I put the 280s, 30s, and factory spec'd jets that are in the intake throat of the carb all in the 01 and find improvement. Ordered 27.5s, 290s, 300s, 310s, 330s, carb gaskets, filter oil, etc.. While waiting for delivery I checked a few other things. I checked the "static"? i think is the term.. compression by warming up, yanking both plugs, hook up snap-on comp tester, hold wide open, and kick kick kick kick kick... 182ish on the right and 178ish oin the left. Few hours research on this sight followed. Autozone trip (no race gas avail around here) to buy VP octane boost stuff. $20 a can, 1 can to 5 gal raises from 91 to 104-5 i believe it was. Oh, running r50 @ 40:1. wow, that helped ALOT! We're getting closer. Mailman drops off new jets.. Eventually found 300s w 27.5s worked best but still left a lot to be desired. Bike seemed to fall off fast and just burn through the gears really quickly. MPH seemed decent enough but it just FELT flat. New plugs.. nothing. reduced gap to .18-.20 from .26ish i think it was in case of weak ignition .. this seemed to help slightly. I checked for air leaks w can of carb cleaner and seemed to have one @ the reed block. Ordered new gaskets. Pulled vforce2s. I found that when i held a very bright flashlight up to the reeds, In only 3 of the 8 i could see light through them. However, it seemd to me that this was a natural effect from the weaving in production of the carbon fiber. Im talking about pinhole if not smaller sections of light. Maybe 4-8 "pixels" on each of the 3 reeds that allowed any light at all to pass through. I cleaned the reeds, flipped them, lightly buffed the edges with #0000 steel wool to polish any inperfections off that might keep the reed from seating properly against the cage. I used blue locktite upon re -assembly. Also, Some assfuck used some shit that was a nightmare to get off when installing the vforce2 cages. I COMPLETELY cleaned off the cages, boots, cylinders.. re-installed using light grease to tack the gaskets up and torqued to whatever it was this site said was correct (cant recall). I also cleaned and oiled the UNi-filters, put in 310s, and needle clipped at 2nd from the bottom (out of 6 postitons, so fat fat). Terrible results. Checked for air leaks and found nothing. Put in 330s, changed clip to 3rd from top (2 clips leaner), and put in 30 pilots. WAYYYYY better. WWAAYY better. On pavement just putting in third or even fourth, blip it and the front comes up. It took some serious effort to get the front end up prior. It still feels flat on the top 35% of the curve. Yanked the choke and it gets worse. Fat maybe? It just doesnt FEEL fat though. I didnt want to ride it very long in case of there being a lean condition. After 10-12 min of dicking around w 1 or 2 tops actual pinned banging gear trials ( letting out a second or two into 6th, clutch, kill, coast, check...) i didnt chop the plug but i thought this might be better than not checking at all. Strap changed color almost at weld but not quite.. closer to the top of gthe bend. Color looked good. Base ring looked as if it was a new plug. No oil or anything on the plug anywhere. One side of the strap was colored dif though, lighter just on the one edge. DId some more reading on this site. Found the orange and black coil wires were backwards as many are.. corrected. Too late at this point to check for improvement. Im getting closer but it still feels like im a good ways off from how it should be. I checked the cylinders when i removed the reed blocks and found they are unported. Ive basically took anything worth a shit off of the 03' and put it on the 01': beadlocks, bumper, grab, skids, tires, billet bling, etc. I noticed that the 01' has a vibration near idle. rev and when rpms fall and approach idle the motor vibes enough to shake the whole bike. Once its back at idle it ceases to vibe. Im wondering if this is normal or if maybe ive got a weak bottom end. I honestly dont recall the 03 doing that but i only rode it once. My gut tells me its not good ( the vibe). My plan was to part out the 03' in order to recoup funds put out on the 01'. If the 01' has A flawed motor, maybe i should keep the 03 motor? Or should i just ebay it and take the G i get for it and hope its enough to address any issues i might run into with this motor? The 01' seems to require more effort than it should when shifting. You have to really focus on pulling the lever completely up with deliberate force, otherwise it stays in whatever gear its in. Im not sure if this is cluth or trans issue. The suspension on this thing blows goats. I get a weird weight transfer feedback loop kinda thing that ends up w the bike bouncing front ot back in a way whenever theres any kind of rapid suspension work to be done. Doesnt seem right either. If im rolling down the way and quickley compress and the neg load the bike, the front wheels come off the ground. Increase rebound or rebuild? I increased the rebound and it seems beytter but still fuct to be honest. Im thining just doing the stage 3 elka kit when i can.. next 6 months maybe. next/mods: chain/sprockets..13/41 im thinkning, climer manual and check electrical specs, Try some 32.5 pilots, order some 320, 340, 360 mains and play with those, replace anything electrical that seems not to function according to spec, timing plate, reeds? does it sound like they need replaced ( they were set on high setting), port cylinders.. If my crank is factory doesn 180 seem high on the comp? should i worry about that? maybe weld crank before port so i dont break shit? Oh yeah, Id like to get a leakdown tester/kit but just dont have the time to build one myself. Id prefer to build one but just have too much other shit mentally going on. If someone has a used one, wants to build one, etc, I i am open to bartering all kinds of stuff from banshee parts, quality car audio, american (snapon, mac, matco, proto, sk, etc) tools, sbc perf parts, other powersports misc parts ( i have an ebay business) .. I have lots of quality guy stuff. Im a stand up honest man of my word kinda guy and expect the same with anyoine who wants to do business/barter.. Basically im looking for some logical advice from anyone whos learned the hard way so that i dont have to. I dont want to half ass anything or risk damage. I prefer to be safe rather than sorry and if i have to pull shit apart, i might as well put it back together with better shit since im already there, or at least thoroughly inspect, check, do anything required for peace of mind. However, i dont have cash to waste on doing shit that isnt required. Id rather spend some $ on preliminary things required for a reliable motor prior to modding it.. (makinf sure i have no air leaks, elec is working proper, jetted right, reeds r good, yada yada). You know what i mean. Any input or advice on repairing, improving, or preventing failure of any part of my bike is greatly appreciated. I thank you for taking the time to read this and will take all valuable relevant input seriously and perform advised procedures accordingly, not forgetting to respond with results either. Thanks guys. Much appreciated!!
hey guys so I recently purchased an 02 banshee 392 cheetah cub 4 mil stroker. the guy I bought it from was kind of a knob and couldn't answer any of my questions. he had paperwork from vitos that the original owner gave him showing the 392 kit was bought along with some other stuff. it has a pro design coolhead with 22cc domes, some sort of aftermarket carbon fiber reeds, Toomey t6 pipes and silencers, k&n direct mount air filters with outerwears, vitos performance carb kit (whatever that includes) 340 main, 25 pilot, and some red needles that must be part of the carb kit. but on the paperwork I noticed it said the 392 kit was for a stock crankshaft. he said he had it rebuilt 8 months ago and the place that did it told him it was a 4 mil stroker. is there any easy way of finding out for sure if this is a stroker or just a big bore besides having to pull the cylinders off and measure a rod? I thought maybe I could pull the coolhead and see if it has stroker domes in it. if so what is the difference between regular domes and stroker domes? also I went trail riding with it last weekend it ran great but it was very dusty and towards the end of the day it started hesitating a little bit. I didn't think too much of it but it had me a little worried. well the next day it wouldn't start. I pulled off the air cleaners and the slides were loaded with dirt and gunk. I know the air filters were clamped on tight and I noticed the tors units on top of the carbs were loose and wobbling around. could this be where all my dirt came from? I pulled off the carbs and cleaned everything out, installed new float needles because one overflow was leaking since I got it, and made sure to tighten down the top caps so the tors were not loose anymore. well ever since I tightened them down it runs like crap wont idle and falls flat on its face if I try to ride it. I messed around with the adjustment on the tors and just ended up disconnecting all the electrical connections at the brain box and the thumb throttle and now it runs great??!!! I don't get it. so I ordered the tors eliminator kit that should be here this week so hopefully solves that problem. I also ordered a new chariot billet intake and billet reed cages and im wondering if I will need to change my jetting? seems like a pretty big main jet and kind of a small pilot??? any help is greatly appreciated as I used to own a built quadzilla and a big bore trx330r but im new to the twin screamers!!! thanks guys
I recently bought a 96 banshee and it starts 2nd kick. i let it warm up for a good 5 mins before i ride. It rips great in first and second gear. Once i hit third it seems like the engine isnt getting fuel. No matter how much throttle i give it, i cant hit the powerband. This happens almost everytime. There have been few times where i hit the powerband and then go into 4th gear and then bogs. I took off my carbs and cleaned everything, i also removed the TORS system from it. I have been looking and cant find anything besides rejetting and TORS removal. I am wondering if the reeds are sticking. I am running klotz @ 32:1. With untouched gap NGK B9ES plugs. I am also running sea foam for cleaner. Also i am runnig unleaded, should i run premium, would that make a difference? Thanks.
really need help here guys iim stumped
01BANSHEE20 posted a topic in Banshee Repairs and Modsi have a 99 banshee. all the wiring seems to be in good shape. i just got it yesterday, okay so the only mod it has is the fmf pipes. when i got it it would do the normal thing that it does when the tors or parking brake is messing up. it will cut out when you hit the throttle. but see the tors brain box has all 3 wires cut off it, the thumb swith is cut off as well. the parking brake was disconnected from the perch but not unplugged. so heres the wierd part whe i unplug the parking brake wire completely it will noit even rev at all like no rpm gain at all. when i plug it in and touvh the prongs together it gains 1000 rpm or so but still wont rev. any ideas gguys? my mind is blown., inormally know what im doing. please help!!!