jrfastbanshee

It looks like he is just talking about the basket itself... Once you unbolt everything and take the basket out. The stock basket it not serviceable (unless you fab it back together).

I was told to always run same mix ratio as you normally would! Running extra oil will cause a lean condition cuz it lowers the fuel/air mix. If you want to make richer you should go up a jet or two. Everyone you talk to will tell you something different though. I just do a couple heat cycles then be nice for the first few tanks.

Basket was very grooved...17 years old. I already filed the grooves twice and am lucky I didn't break one or the fingers. I believe the basket was keeping it from shifting and the star was causing it to miss a shift? Either way I hope both issues are gone or at least a lot better.

I believe you grind the rivets and press the back plate/gear off. Then the new basket will use screws instead of rivets to hold the gear with a new backplate and cushions. I will be doing this soon as well...so anyone correct me if I am wrong.

Great...thanks! I will spend the extra money. Stock one lasted 17 years but has always shifted like poo. My engine finally ate the rubber cushions so it's time to go!

I was thinking of getting the barnett basket since is has stanless steel inserts over the fingers. Or I was thinking of the PE one since it's cheaper. I really would like to have the barnett since I have seen even Hinson get notched. (not nearly as bad as stock though)

Ahhh...that makes sense. I was going to mill all tips down but I guess I will save some time and bit life and leave that one in tact. Can't wait to try it out. That and a new clutch basket it should shift like a honda??? (I can always hope)

Isn't the hump between 1st and 2nd the one with the neutral notch? Maybe the unground one is 5-6th. I don't think I have ever missed that shift.

cgamla, that's when it makes the noise...just off full throttle and coasting. Guess that's all I needed to hear...new top end it is! It is just hard to do when it runs sooooo good after a year of replacing other crap. There is no smoke or coolant issues (anymore) I honed an re-reinged last time cuz coolant got in and scorched the cylinder walls. I guess it took a little too much clean up for the new rings. Oh well...it's just money right? Anyone know what wiseco recommends for tolerance. Last two shops went .0025" and both ended up in cold seizures. I did the break in to a T both times...I think it was just too tight for the forged pistons. Thanks all!

Ok...the last few trips out I noticed my left cylinder has a little piston slap. I re-ringed about 6 months ago and have about 140psi in each cylinder still. When I rev high and cut the throttle I can hear the piston "slapping" for a second or so. I know it's not good but I want to know if I can get a few more trips out of it? I just don't want to rebuild it till I get my coolhead...not sure why...just don't. Has anyone ever broken a piston skirt? And is that from piston slap or something other? The bike runs perfect but I should know better. So once again here is the stupid question. Can I get a few more rides out of her without breaking the piston skirt? Thanks... JR

I would try pull/push starting it as well. Did you wash it recently? I used to get water in the cdi and it would cause a weak spark for a few hours. Wouldn't start unless I pushed it...no matter how hard I could kick. Finally the cdi stayed this way with a weak spark and then I replaced it. There are ways to test the spark that I can't recall. It should be bright blue and spark with ease (turning over kicker by hand with plugs out). It might also be all kinds of flooded like mentioned before. Either way you should get a compression tester to keep an eye on your top end. Hope this helps.

I would think it is either low compression or weak spark. As a reference my wifes shee has 105psi in each cylinder. This is low but the bike starts right up everytime...you can even start with your hand! Now mine has 145psi each cylinder and wouldn't start at all without a pull a while back. The problem on mine was a weak spark. New cdi and it fires right up! My guess is it's electrical since it worked fine for six weeks? Having two bikes it should be easy to swap components. Hope this helps. Jason

The yellow wire is from the lighting coils. The green and red are the ignition coils as stated above. The bike will most likely spark/run with those readings (which are from the pick-up coil BTW). It depends on the meter you use but I don't think I have ever had a reading actually within the limits Anyway, if you have some resistance you know the coils are not open. The next thing you need to check is if they are grounded to the frame (same as off switch). I think that is by far the most common death of stators. I have been through three stock ones myself that shorted to the posts the wire is wrapped around. Bottom line...if the red or green wires are open or grounded the stator is toast. Hope this helps!

I have a family to support too and I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars for work just to spend hundreds more to get it fixed! If he is well know than he should stand behind his work right? Either you loose hundreds for picking the wrong guy or he looses for not doing it right. I would expect it done right or have it fixed at no charge...but I realize that is just a dream with most builders. You don't need to bad mouth...just advise us of your experience. Just my opinion...

nater006...I dug this one back up since I have the same exact noise but in 4th gear only! Any luck on what it is? I had no metal in oil either...nothing! I was thinking it might be a bent shift fork catchin on something? Or maybe we both broke a tooth and it fell strait down...didn't get ground up or fall out oil drain? I will have to dig some pics up of the inside and investigate before I tear it down. I am tired of working on this thing. Anyone else have any ideas? It only sounds like a tooth is missing...but the bike doesn't jerk or slip. Either way...not going to ride it this way! Thanks, JR