Checkmate

ALSO, WHERE DID YOU UNPLUG THE TORS? THERE IS A BLACK BOX UNDER THE LEFT PIPE TOO (BESIDES THE CARB PLUGS)

DID YOU REMEMBER TO TURN THE FUEL PETCOCK BACK ON?B

i use a place in Philly for all my metals. Called Metal Supermarkets. i dont have thier # off hand, but do a search.

i agree...i like the looks of it !! can you answer my other questions on how to seat the insert. i was thinking i would have to mill a lip. but since you've done it i thought i would ask first before phucking it up. thanks

you don't need anything special as far as octane with your setup. but when i had a stock motor i would pay the extra .20 cents a gallon for the 93 octane.

i have a queston about these..... what does the clear insert sit up against?? i'm sure you can't just cut a hole in the cover and then fit the same size clear insert in the hole....it would fall in. so do you mill a 'lip' in the cover that the insert sits on so that it doesn't fall through?? and besides looking cool, does this mod give you any benefit besides making sure your flywheel is still spinning

Have a set of Stock Banshee carbs off of a 2001. Comes with TORS boxes, thumb cable and fuel lines. Make offer. Or will trade for full chasis skid plate.

I think they make some type of flush mount valve stem for the people that flip the fronts.

I have access to CNC Mills and Lathes. My uncle owns a shop and i was his machinist for 6 years. I have my own keys and he lets me go in and do whatever i need to do (as long as i don't break down one of his setups that he has running for one of his jobs ) I would guess this would be some type of mill work. Let me know if i can help.

i just bought a 5 gallon jug of VP 108 from the fun center. they charged me $45 (dicks). Thats way too much $$, but i bought it just to get my shit running. I figured i will find it more resonable after this batch.

but they blasted around the track fine before they play with whatever thier playing with. i originally thought it was the choke, but the bike couldn't run that well with the choke out on the first test runs. Oh yea......hey NYUK....where can you get race gas in our PHILLY area???

We were at the indoor motocross freestyle fest in Philly tonight, and i noticed before each and every dude runs, he takes a quick lap and then stops and reaches towards the motor area and adjusts something that is down near the carb. Then they take off and nail the jumps. These are all 2-stroke bikes. i was wondering what they could be phuckin with???? anyone know???

You should be able to look at the surface of the head and see some 'tool marks'. End mills will usually leave a directional 'patteren' in the surface that it's milling. And with the large surface area of the head, it will take a few passes (in each direction) with the end mill to skim the entire surface. So you should see the pattern that the tool followed when you look at the face of the head.

This has happened to me a couple times after pulling the carbs, and i still haven't figured out why it happens.??? to get past it i would just pour a very small amount of fuel directly in the cylinders (through the spark plug holes). This would fire the motor and siphon the fuel where it needs to be and everything works after that. Give it a try. if it starts, and then dies....that means you burned the fuel you put in the cylinder, and there is a block in the fuel system somewhere.

I am running an amp link and decieded to go to a 15 tooth front sproket. When i went to put my chain back on, i am short when trying to connect the master link. I have the axle loose and all the way forward. So my question is.....does anyone run a 15t front sprocket and an amp link? what did you do for a chain? What size chain do i need....they only come even #'s right....so a 106 link??? thanks. also....what is the best way to remove links if i decide to get a 110 link and start hacking away.

ok...got my carbs straightened out, and ran the bike. checked compression again, and i am now at 180. must have been the oil i used during assembly. so now with 180 lbs at sea level. should i run the 108 straight, ar can i mix? how much does everyone pay for thier race fuel??

that worked!!! i took out the new spigots and cleaned everything, then re-seated it as far as it could go. thanks for the help.

ahhhhhhh....ok i see. i thought those stock drain screws worked differently....like you needed to pull then all the way out for the fuel to drain. I'll check it out. thanks

here is an ad that i ran locally. 1997 253 Checkmate Convincor. This is a CLEAN fresh water boat that has been indoor rack stored since new. Overall length is 27'. 575hp Supercharged 454 carburated motor,stainless marine exhaust,Teague High performace outdrive with low water performace pickup. boat runs 80mph (GPS speed) with 4 blade labbed Hydromotive Stainless steel prop. cockpit cover, and a full custom cover, 1997 custom haul trailer. Cockpit has stand up bolsters and snap in carpet, cabin has a lot of room with 2 bench seats that turn into a bed, porto-potti (never used), and a large V-berth. Full Sony cd system with 2 amps, 8 speakers including 2 subs, and full display remote at the helm. Trim tabs with indicators, Dual batteries with switch. $36,000. email me for pics. [email protected] or call 267-767-6831

never heard of boring the carbs? i guess you would bore out the slide holes??? then get bigger slides?? how do you benefit from this?

i bought a D&D head. it is 2 separate heads (one for each jug). good customer service too. check them out.

if i take the bowl off and fill it just below the overflow tube, where would i be looking for the fuel coming out?? i kinda thought that it may have had something to do with the spigots, but can't really understand how they can affect fuel coming out the overflow tube. can you explain this to me a bit more.....before i go out and waste $$ on 2 needle and seat valves. thanks

will they fit stock banshee a-arms??

my boat is for sale......who needs a bad ass machine???????

my carbs are still pouring gas out of the overflows with the gas tank petcock valve on. i had just recently installed a dial-a-jet system, and it took drilling a hole through the carbs where the intake boot connects. i also rejetted during the process and left the bowls off when i drilled the holes for the dial-a-jets. i am guessing i wasn't careful enough with the bowls off, and must have put pressure on the floats. i took the carbs back off and checked the needles and seats for dirt, but they were clean. i also checked the float level and it was in tolerance. could i have leaned too hard on the float while drilling and presses the needle valve TOO far into the seat causing it to put a groove in it??? should i just go get new needle and seat valves from the stealership and try them??? help thanks