TPhillips

Bump

Sorry, no for anymore yfz parts.

Yeah, $600

I am selling a complete front end off a YFZ450. It comes complete with the A arms, shocks, brakes, rotors, hubs, and outerwears. A complete Banshee upgrade if your wanting to widen your front end and gain more suspension travel. Parts are located in Kansas City. $600 You can email me at [email protected] Visit My Website

The YFZ's usually ride pretty stiff, does that translate to the Banshee, or can they be softened up enough?

I have a complete YFZ450 front end, A-arms, Shocks, Spindles, Hubs, Calipers, and Tie Rod Ends. I am looking to make my bike better in the sand. I want the bike to handle the whoops and choppy sand better. Is this 450 front end going to help me out, or am I going to have to revalve the shocks to get it right? I don't want to put this front end on and still require shock work, when I could sell the front end and buy aftermarket shocks and maybe for a little more get aftermarket a-arms. I guess my question is are the aftermarket dune valved shocks going to ride better than my YFZ setup? What about the stock shocks after re-valving them? How do they ride compared to recreational aftermarket shock?

Jeff has done motors for me, my brother, and a couple friends, I would definatly recommend him.

Got the cable, fits just right. Put the carbs on too, thing runs awesome, those lighter springs have an easier throttle than the stock carbs did. His springs look and are the same length as the Barnetts you just sold me, so I don't know what it is.

Washer is in place, 6 steels & 7 fibers.

His springs are the same ones I run in my bike, barnetts Jeff sells. I can't figure it out. Its like the pressure plate goes in too far, and when you put the springs in, they aren't long enough to keep the bolts from bottoming out. Normally when you put springs in, you have to compress the spring slightly in order for the bolt to thread in. Not his, you put the spring in, and the screw immediatly threads in without compressing the spring, and then bottoms out before the spring can compress like they normally would. We measured the thickness of his clutch plates, and they are within spec. The inner and outer hub has been replaced with factory Yamaha parts. I have worked on alot of clutches, but don't have a clue what is wrong with his, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hey Jeff, guess what? The right cable works perfectly!! Ever find out what the others went to? By the way, put the carbs on today....bike runs awesome. Can't wait to sling some sand. Thanks agian.

The gauge is a SNAP-ON, and the threads are the same lenghts.

Can you elaborate or explain that? I have cylinders with the same port work and same squish.

What's the difference between the av gas and 100 octane race fuel? I have heard of other people running the av gas before, but I am not sure why more people don't since its cheaper. Is there a difference or downside?

I had a play port with stock carbs that made 57 hp with the stock carbs, then had Jeff look at the cylinders and turn them up to his play port, which felt alot stronger. So I dont see any reason why you shouldn't break the 60 hp mark.

Do not buy a boost bottle, plain and simple.

It doesn't matter what size or how many paddles, you can't beat me Al.

Who sells mod quad or how can I get ahold of them?

I am looking for a hide a key kit, I think I have seen them before where its a little bracket that bolts under your seat to hide your key and ignition. Does anyone know who sells them?

The axle nut is fine, the chain is on the top side, and we tried tightening the chain. The chain was adjusted perfect before, but we tried tightening it just to make sure and its still doing it. I can't figure it out. My bike will do it every now and then when I am in the really soft sand climbing hills or something, but not very often. His does it constantly, even on the street.

My brothers Banshee has a weird problem. When you accelerate it feels like the chain is jumping teeth. The chain is brand new as well as the front sprocket, the rear sprocket is only about a year old. The chain isn't loose, the carrier is tight and the axle barrings are fine. I was thinking it could be the chain slider, its pretty beat up, but it will do it when the bike is on a perfectly smooth surface and the chain really isn't even touching the slider. We're leaving Thursday for Little Sahara so I kindof need help quick.

I would definatly recommend everyone to put a gauge on their bike. Just make sure the tip of the gauge is all the way down into the T fitting for an accurate reading. I didn't have mine set up quite like that when I did it the first time and it did not read accuratly. My bike over heated once and only read 160 degrees. I don't know what temp the engine ice boils at, but mine was boiling. Now I have it in correctly and should know some better readings next month when we head to the sand.

I am trying to figure out a good temperature range for my banshee. It usually won't go past 140 degrees or so, but if I am playing in the soft sand it has gotten up to 150-160 before. I have a cool head and run engine ice, so I thought I would see what temps you guys are running at. Oh yeah, had any one ever put an inline cooler on after putting a temp guage on your bike? Did it make a difference?

I was wondering if you still knew how to get ahold of Jeff at Farm and Sand Toys? Or does anyone else??

I am trying to find a number or web address to Farm and Sand Toys. Does anyone know how to get ahold of them?