ybanshee203

You could change your gearing if you don't mind purchasing a lot of different sprockets to see which setup works best with your modifications.

I'm pretty sure the oil is normal. Try taking your silencers off and running a bead of high temp silicone around the headpipe where the silencers slide on. Then slide the silencers back on and wipe the excess silicone off. Re-install your pipe clamps and let the silicone dry overnight or longer. Hope this solves your problem.

Do you have a Clymers repair manual? If not you need to invest in one, they are pretty handy sometimes. There is a "ball" that is behind the pressure plate. It is located in front of the pushrod that engages/dis-engages your clutch. Take the pressure plate and clutch plate assembly off, then if you don't want to mess with taking the clutch nut off get a flash light and look behind the clutch nut(directly in the center of the nut)and this is where the "ball should be. If there isn't one you will have to remove the clutch nut and push the ball back against the pushrod. Then just re-install everything and adjust the clutch BEFORE installing the clutch cover. Hope this helps.

One Word: FAITH

Wassup350, I don't think it was ever actually broke. When I first tried this it was on a stand (back wheels of the ground). At first it wouldn't stop spinning when I pulled in the clutch, but I could hit the back brake and it wouldn't stall it out and kill it. So I adjusted it one more time, just like my Clymers said and took it off the stand to ride it and it worked perfectly. I hope this helps.

Nevermind guys I fixed it. Thanks for the help ledofthezep.

Any ideas people? I need the banshee going by Saturday for an MX race.

Would JB Weld work? It is a two part epoxy like brock_fuzzy_69 mentioned.

The clutch arm is lined up with the arrow on the motor. There is also the correct amount of slack at the clutch lever. Any other ideas?

I'm having problems with my newly installed clutch kit. My problem is that the clutch won't dis-engage ( the banshee still goes with clutch in). I know I installed it correctly and torqued the nuts down correctly also. Could it be that I installed all the new springs and it has to much pressure against it and it won't dis-engage? I heard about installing 3 new springs and 3 old springs on here once before but didn't get the full scoup so I didn't try it. Should I try this? I am also pretty positive that I have the clutch adjusted correctly too. Thanks in advance.

Did you stagger the clutch plates?

I don't know what size it is but I used a impact gun to get my friends off and it didn't strip. I don't have an Amp Link but I've heard they're not worth the money. Hope this helps.

Sorry I don't have an answer for you, but I was kind of wondering this myself.

Thanks a lot for your help.

I have a few questions I need answered. First, when you install a aftermarket set of clutch plates do you use the cushions that are used in the factory clutch? Second, if so how many are there? The Banshee Manual says to install a cushion against the back of the clutch basket then install a friction plate, followed by a clutch plate, then it says repeat. Does this mean to install a cushion between each clutch and friction plate? The deal is that my friend smoked his clutch out and when I took it apart there was only two cushions, one against the clutch basket and one against the pressure plate. The reason I think there could be more is because there was a lot of clutch material in the bottom of the clutch cover. Any help would be greatly appreciated.