Up north rider

Here’s where I’m at. I don’t have my new pilots in yet, but I decided to do a leak down test anyway and I had zero loss in psi. The gauge held solid for more than ten minutes. So that’s good, but I was adjusting the needles and mains last weekend and I had it running nice besides the hesitation near 1/4ish throttle. I took it out for a ride last night and it seems my progress is lost. It doesn’t run the same in the middle or wot. I don’t why I can’t jet this thing. Could this be an electrical problem? What would cause it run great one day and not the next? I’m not a carb expert but it can’t be this hard. Lol Thank you for all the help this far!

I think you are right. I might have been chasing my tail with the needles. I’m trying to set my air screws correctly based what I can get out of the forums. so correct me if I’m doing anything wrong. I purchased a sync tool from fast. I synced my carbs at idle and about an 1/8 throttle. Now to adjust the air screw am I’m supposed to supposed turn it counterclockwise (leaner) until I notice the bike start to build rpms kind of like it would be if you forgot the gas off. Then turn it clockwise(richer) about a 1/4 turn from there? Would that be correct procedure? Anyway, when I lean out the air screws there is zero noticeable difference in idle speed. I’m also blipping the throttle as I’m adjusting so it would adapt. So far I’m 3 turns and nothing has changed. Should I try 52 pilot jets?

So I bought genuine jjh needles to replace the knock off amazon ones. I started on the middle clip position. I was bogging and had lots of blue smoke. I knew I was rich so I kept going up the positions one by one and now I’m at the top again just like before. It’s okay the way it is but you definitely have to brake though a rough patch in the rpm range. It screams on top but mid is not so good. Especially went it gets warmer outside. I’m wondering if my foam filters and air box are choking it out a bit, and I should just switch to k&n clamp on filters. I realize my cpi pipes are a drag pipe but I would think I could at least get this midrange at little smoother. What do you guys think?

So I confirmed my carbs are genuine per sudco’s description. I’m glad you mentioned that. I was completely unaware of how close the fake carbs can look to the real ones. Anyway, So you’re saying I should run a jjh needle. Why not a cel, or a dgk or any of the other popular needles people use for banshees. I’m not questioning your advice. I’m just curious as why you went with those over x needle. Thanks again

I bought my carbs on Facebook marketplace. The guy I bought them from threw in needles with the carbs. They’re motoritec needles off Amazon, and they’re all n68a, n68b, n68c etc. They go all the way to n68j. The thing is even when I measure them with Calipers, they are all so close to the exact same size that I don’t pick up any change whatsoever on the calipers. I know that’s probably not how you measure them anyway. Im just looking for any subtle difference that might give a clue. To sum this up all I’m looking for is a needle that I can at least start in the middle clip position and go up and down from there. I think I might be barking up the wrong tree with these

Hey all I’m a little lost as to which needles to go with Just wondering if you guys could give me a little help. It would be much appreciated. I recently built a 421 assassin lp. cfm airbox with unipods, vf4’s, +5* timing 24cc domes, and t5’s, dual Pingle (real one) and 28 Pwk’s. The needles Im using say N68a on them which is different then what is commonly talked about on other threads I’ve looked at. The thing is I have to run them at the highest clip position just for the motor to run smooth. The midrange plug chop still looks rich, What needle for the Pwk’s would you say is a good place to start given my setup?

Thanks a lot. Will do

Hello. New to the forum. I’m in the process of rebuilding my engine. Upon splitting my case I noticed some bad gouging on the stator side crank sealing surface. I looks like someone really went crazy with a screw driver trying to change the seal at one point. Is this something I can fix myself or are the cases shot?