Up north rider

I completely understand. Why wouldn’t you just get a 4mil instead of a long rod stock crank for the same money. That’s exactly what I did. For my brother it made sense because he could just get a 392 top end without splitting the case or replacing the crank. However do some people just prefer factory stroke? Does a stock stroke just retain some quicker Revs? For instance the 440 cub vs a 472 cub. I appreciate the responses. I ask only because I find it interesting. Thanks

I hear ya, but who makes a stock stroke crank with 115 rods?

I was on CPI’s website looking at all the different cub configurations they make. I seen a few different setups with stock 54 millimeter stoke, but had a 115 long rod. some of the ones that I seen were: 65.0 54.0 115.0 358.37 68.0 54.0 115.0 392.22 72.0 54.0 115.0 439.72 The last is pretty interesting to me. A 440 super cub. I’ve never seen these setups. My brother has a 392, but it has stock 110 crank. How is it achieved.

I will play around with what I already have as far as carbs go. The consensus is don’t go for the big ones. Thanks for the input!

I might have to contact him about getting my trans worked over. I’ll see what he says about a top end. Do you think super cubs/servals are too much motor for a stock chassis and swingarm?

Many have said 10mm’s make for a less than desirable trial machine for some reason. I was considering a 472 serval or cub at some point. What’s your take on either of those, Or if you think 10mm’s are a bad all rounder.

We go fairly long distances sometimes. We may go 40-50 miles at a time. Some sand And of course just backyard drag, wheelies whatever else. Kind of everything.

Lone star a arms with fox float 3 shocks. Rpm axle with reworked factory rear shock.

The cylinders are as cast. They’re driveline’s second gen assassin cylinders. They told me all the porting they would do on the first ones are now cast in.

Going from 23cc domes on pump gas to 21cc on 100ll was a nice bump. Especially in the midrange. Think the cotton filters are good for a horse or two?

CPI’s. I’m not quite sure if there small or big bore

I appreciate the input! What would you do then to make this machine just bit more dialed? I could put k&n over the foam filters, or pro mod the trans. Just spitballing

Would you consider the 33’s to be big as well? So basically the only thing I’ll notice is my tank will empty quicker?

I’m thinking about changing some stuff up when the snow is on the ground. I’m currently running 28pwk’s on my 421 assassin 2. I have an old set of 33’s on the shelf that I want to put on for the extra power but I’ve been watching videos on people running big carbs like 38’s. The power looks unreal. What kind of horsepower power difference between these carb are there? I’m currently running 100ll

Well, I’ll be putting a full season on it at this point. So I’ll give my two cents on it, for anyone interested.

live and learn I guess

Oof. lol. This guys work is no good I take it.

So I decided to send my stock shock to get rebuilt and re-valved by Kevin Groff or Jogaca suspension works. He seemed like a nice guy over the phone. A lot of people say the factory shock reworked is quite good so why not try this first I think.

Thanks for the input

I’ve seen your suspension setup on here before. Very nice! Would you mind posting a pic on here so I can show my brothers? I could dig around and find it

I know it’s hard quantify, but how much of a difference would you feel cruising down a bumpy trail at 40-50 mph? Can you maintain control a lot better?

Does anyone have any input on a rear shock upgrade,and how much of a difference it makes? I have been running LSR standard a-arms and float 3 shocks up front. That made a huge difference! I currently have a stock rear shock. Between a Fox podium, Elka 3,4,5 , custom axis, or stock shock revalve? What’s the consensus? Thanks

We’ll definitely try the cdi swap, and I think he’ll grab a set of those pipes. thanks again

I have cpi’s on my 421 and I love it. He’s not really into the peaky power band, but I think if shearers match well with this motor he should go with it. Also we’re all running pump gas so that peaky power I think is more apparent when you don’t have as much compression. Does that track with the general consensus? Also his cylinders are as cast

My plan was to get it somewhere in the ballpark before I plug chop a main jet setting. We just never got to that point. We can idle it in the shop and rev it in neutral ok, but sputtering crap basically the whole way through the rev range. The reason I was skeptical to go into the 130-140 range is my other brother has a 392 DL motor with 28pwk and pro circuits and he has 152-155 mains. His runs great. Plus I don’t wanna melt down this brand new motor. Haha I guess we could make another jet r us order and go back square one or just shelf these pipes for another build. I appreciate the input.