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Metal_man_Rob

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Posts posted by Metal_man_Rob

  1. I wouldn't give him shit...just anti seize the shit outa the tube @re-assembly

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    Right on, man. I’ve honestly stayed away from Vitos since I got on this site.
    I grabbed a big tube of anti-seize.

    One thing that is f**king with my head is that I can turn the bolt which makes sense but I can’t move the swingarm side to side over the bolt/spacer assembly but I can’t move the bolt out. This makes no sense. If it was welded to the frame I wouldn’t be able to turn it and if I can move the swing arm pivot side to side, the bolt should move in or out at least to the same limit as the swing arm side to side movement. Based on what’s in there... it’s not as much frustrating as it is intriguing. The end cap on the left side spins but the other one doesn’t move. I can’t imagine that flimsy cap would hold that bolt with the nightmare I just put it through. Lol.
    I’m cutting that bitch off. F**k it.


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  2. Keep the nut on loose( to spare the threads,) and smack it, and then hit the head of the bolt/ nut Back & forth, lubing as you go

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    Yeah those threads are gone. Haha. The nut was made out of apple juice and wasp nests, I think. I kept it on about flush with the end of the bolt. The nut is pulverized and actually jumped threads so the bolt is trashed too. But I’d already ordered the swing arm goodies and the new bolt before I started all of this. I knew it would be a twat to remove so considered cutting it out beforehand. I just ordered a sawzall. Haha.
    Someone has had it off before because the washer under the bolt head is not OEM.
    I saw these carbon fiber bushings on (cough cough) Vito’s that have a lifetime warranty and are used instead of the bearings. Ever hear anything about those?


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  3. Just anti seize the shit out of bolt & sleeve.
    I think most just make outer tube /swingarm greasable

    For now I have to get it out. Have been soaking it in Kroil every time I walk past it. Smacked it so much with my 5lb that the nut I left on the end of the bolt actually jumped threads. (I have a new bolt anyway.

    Going to try a couple of things. Threaded rod through the center with a good built up of nuts and washers on the threaded end. An impact socket over the head on the other end with a few washers. The socket will clear the bolt head. The washers will disperse force. Then put a nut down to the washers and righted as much as puss I left. Have a couple feet of rod remaining so I can put a 10lb weight over the rod and then thread more shit on the end and hammer the fuck out of it like a pull hammer.

    Then get my car jack. If the threaded rod idea doesn’t work I am just going to start smashing shot in my garage with the car jack. Fuck that Harley!


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  4. I found a nightmare under that garbage swing arm seal guard chain roller garbage when I cut it off for the TM chain guide. So...

    I have seen talk of setting the swingarm bolt up with a zerk fitting to allow for future greasing. But haven’t found threads with results by people who have done it.

    Does anybody know if the bolt is hardened or case hardened? I am going to do the grease fitting mod but not putting a tap into hardened steel.

    I am also going to bring grease runners along the length that intercept the grease holes I will be drilling into the shaft.

    And that is after I remove what I assume is going to be a pain in the ass to remove bolt.

     

     

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  5. Found a plastic piece buried in the sweet sweet chain-lube/mud/sand mix all caked up in the front sprocket area. See photos.

    Front sprocket is junk but wondering if the collar is ok or is this something I should replace.

    And is this an OEM nut?

     

    I am putting a case saver on and switching to the TM chain guides/rollers.

    The counter shaft seems to have normal play (in and out but no play side to side).

    The sprocket is worn out, possibly prematurely but definitely in the normal and predictable way.

    The collar has a groove through the center running evenly around the outside and seems manufactured this way. But it seems to have wear.

    The not was so loose, even with the lock washer in place and in tact, that the nut was just barely catching the thread. The shaft and splines are all well in tact and show no wear or damage.

    I can’t think of anything that would cause the nut to loose up so badly. The lock washer was beat to heck but still in tack. Only thing I can think is the busted off chain roller, the shitty ass OEM front chain guide/swingarm bearing guard and a possible shit alignment of the front and rear portions of the chain have allowed the counter shaft to jerk in or out hard enough to allow the splines on the shaft to slip out of and past the splines on the lock washer allowing the nut to loosen over time.

    Or the shop the guy said he used should consider switching to fixing toy horses for Barbie houses.

    Anyway... can anybody think of a reason the nut would barley even be engaged on the threads?

    be342433c5fc9bd0a8b77542774c4bf7.jpg

    b3a49306d6ff08292afad79e1260db16.jpg

    b080c09130a753492d9ea439255943d7.jpg

     

     

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  6. Found a plastic piece buried in the sweet sweet chain-lube/mud/sand mix all caked up in the front sprocket area. See photos.

    Front sprocket is junk but wondering if the collar is ok or is this something I should replace.

    And is this an OEM nut?

     

    I am putting a case saver on and switching to the TM chain guides/rollers.

    The counter shaft seems to have normal play (in and out but no play side to side).

    The sprocket is worn out, possibly prematurely but definitely in the normal and predictable way.

    The collar has a groove through the center running evenly around the outside and seems manufactured this way. But it seems to have wear.

    The not was so loose, even with the lock washer in place and in tact, that the nut was just barely catching the thread. The shaft and splines are all well in tact and show no wear or damage.

    I can’t think of anything that would cause the nut to loose up so badly. The lock washer was beat to heck but still in tack. Only thing I can think is the busted off chain roller, the shitty ass OEM front chain guide/swingarm bearing guard and a possible shit alignment of the front and rear portions of the chain have allowed the counter shaft to jerk in or out hard enough to allow the splines on the shaft to slip out of and past the splines on the lock washer allowing the nut to loosen over time.

    Or the shop the guy said he used should consider switching to fixing toy horses for Barbie houses.

    Anyway... can anybody think of a reason the nut would barley even be engaged on the threads?

    be342433c5fc9bd0a8b77542774c4bf7.jpg

    b3a49306d6ff08292afad79e1260db16.jpg

    b080c09130a753492d9ea439255943d7.jpg

     

     

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  7. 2 minutes ago, caleb90 said:

    moving just because of a fourwheeler is kind of foolish imo..now if bc of jobs weather and government i could understand. like were leaving good ole NY because the weather sucks sick of the cold, the our tyranical liberal pos govener driving jobs out and driving tax's up. mean while treating gun owners as criminals and letting true cruminals out of prison to roam the streets. 

    That is actually why we have been looking at tennessee and the carolinas. Tired of the cold. We moved to New Hampshire from Wisconsin just because we wanted a change, we liked it here when we did a motorcycle trip through here. I used to drive superstock and we had been out here a couple of times for that as well. But we are sick of the cold. 

    The government used to be great here but Massachusetts is a fucking Cancer to NH just like NYC is to upstate NY. They vacation here so they want their rules to also apply here which is exactly why we would have a shit law about ATV exhaust. We aren't moving because of the exhaust laws. Saying that is for the sake of humor. We want to leave because of Mass, NJ and NYC. 

    It's sad what that POS governor is doing to your state, man. All for the sake of the rich socialist fucks in Manhattan. 

  8. the whole point of having a banshee is because dollar for dollar it is the easyest machine to get power out of and the pull is unreal.. but stock it is kind of a turd fast yes but a raptor 700 yfz hell pretty much any new 4poke would out run it

    I totally get that. But for sure I got it as a literal barn find and, as I said... I’ve wanted this bike since I was a kid. I’ll buy other 4 wheelers for sure but this is what I have for now and when we get more I can do more with the banshee. Or we can just move. I love this bike and really hate the idea of reverting. But it is what it is for now


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  9. so sell the toomeys n buy a set of fattys with turbine cores

    I’m just going to go back to stock. But thanks for the suggestion and sorry for getting as riled up as I did. Don’t know the shit pissed me off that much.
    This whole pipe thing literally has my wife and I looking at houses and jobs in Tennessee. But seriously, I shouldn’t have been such a dick about something so trivial.


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  10. This unique design allows Our Banshee pipe kits to be used in noise sensitive areas, without killing power like all other systems do. Using this Husk Kit, Banshees which normally produce measureable decibels in the 96dBA range, in racing trim, when being measured by US Forest Service Personnel, will read in the area of 86dBA, WELL below the limits of USFS. Also includes our unique and USFS approved Spark Arrestor as well. Double the compliance and no loss of power!!!
    strait from toomey, as i stated in my first post to you. either the forest ranger dosnt know the laws and is blowing smoke up your ass, or your state has some bogus laws of their own. from what ive always known 96db and spark arrestors are all you need to ride public trails on state owned land

    Hush kit measured 93dBA in Oregon but that could be bad glass as well. And that is exactly what my argument was is that the law doesn’t say one can’t have an aftermarket exhaust, just that it can’t be louder than stock


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  11. So my question above, in the original post was whether I can keep the current air box lid which has been modded as well as the vforce valves or would it create an imbalance. And as I have stated, previously, I am new to 2 strokes (not new to engines)
    I don’t need questions answered that I didn’t ask.
    I do understand going from a T5 to a stock exhaust is going to reduce performance and further performance upgrades. I’m not an idiot.
    I appreciate the valid suggestions of trying to run the T5 and play dumb but it won’t work. And believe me, I don’t want to go back to stock and have spent the last week trying to figure out every way possible to keep the bike the way it is. But I still have to go back to stock which should say enough.
    Penalties for riding with aftermarket $250 fine. Repeated offenses incite fines of up to $1000, impound and resignation of registration.
    I didn’t buy the banshee to pay fines or pay to get it out of impound.
    Penalty for running “closed course” mods (which is what they consider Toomey pipes, specifically) is a $500 fine and immediate impound.
    One person thinks “growing a pair” is all you need. That’s just dumb.
    I bought the bike to ride with my 2 oldest boys together on the trails close to where I live and up north. All are thoroughly patrolled by fish and game. Snow mobiles and Massachusetts weekend riders have ensured that New Hampshire trail systems are diligently patrolled.
    I bought the bike for fun not to sit on the side of the trail getting tickets from assholes.
    Loco gave a decent suggestion. Another guy busted out with “grow a pair”. And at 4:00 in the morning, that being the first thing I read on the screen of my phone... fuck that guy.



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