Metal_man_Rob
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Posts posted by Metal_man_Rob
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The jetting on mikunis I am pretty solid on. The Keihin use totally different numbers for size range so that where the confusion comes in.
The mikunis on it now are 28mm and haven’t been bored as far as I can tell.
Thanks
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My right carb is junk. Allows fuel past the float valve o ring, no matter what I do. New valve, o ring, different o ring, bigger prong, old valve, new valve, switched valves, etc. Fu*k this carb.
-stock motor
-stock timing (although I just got an adjustable plate I need to install)
-Have a pro flow air box mod with a k&n filter
-vforce4 reed valves (I know... not necessary)
-stock exhaust
-600ft elevation
-40:1 yamalube 2R
-riding exclusively XC style. All forest trails, rocks, mud, branches, shit 4x4s are made for but fun AF on a banshee.
Current carbs are mikuni VM28.
I can go back to Mikuni stock carbs, dual Keihin 28mm carbs, a 1 into 2 single carb kit with pods or air box, lectron single 36HV or dual lectron 30s.
Either way I want to make one purchase on this one.
If Keihin, I know absolutely nothing about Keihin jetting. Where to start with one 35mm or two 28mm.
So anybody have a couple cents on this one?
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My right carb is junk. Allows fuel past the float valve o ring, no matter what I do. New valve, o ring, different o ring, bigger prong, old valve, new valve, switched valves, etc. Fu*k this carb.
-stock motor
-stock timing (although I just got an adjustable plate I need to install)
-Have a pro flow air box mod with a k&n filter
-vforce4 reed valves (I know... not necessary)
-stock exhaust
-600ft elevation
-40:1 yamalube 2R
-riding exclusively XC style. All forest trails, rocks, mud, branches, shit 4x4s are made for but fun AF on a banshee.
Current carbs are mikuni VM28.
I can go back to Mikuni stock carbs, dual Keihin 28mm carbs, a 1 into 2 single carb kit with pods or air box, lectron single 36HV or dual lectron 30s.
Either way I want to make one purchase on this one.
If Keihin, I know absolutely nothing about Keihin jetting. Where to start with one 35mm or two 28mm.
So anybody have a couple cents on this one?
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For any threads, the powder coat shop should have a chemical to remove the coat. Actually works awesome.
I would use a right angle die grinder with a finer grit pad or red 3M pads and smooth it out with a 320 white or blue stone with a die grinder. If you have a dresser for the stone, that’s perfect.
I just always worry about rust or corrosion when have to grind so I try to get it as smooth as possible.
I’d use a die (thread die) to remove any residual from outer threads and a tap to remove residual from inner threads.
Inner threads are harder because the powder coat will jam between the root of the inner threads and peak of the outer on the tap and broken taps suck.
If you use transmission fluid as a tapping oil, that will help.
I’m sure there are a million ways to do what you need done but this is what has worked for me in the past.
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Do you have any angle or die grinders?
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Yeah, every time I post from the app it will post over and over again but doesn’t confirm. App bug.
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I don't see how you can do it without pulling the motor.
It was easy. Just had to remove the swing arm, handlebars and the leather tassels, hit it with my purse, drink 18 wine coolers (fuzzy navel flavor) and it was done.
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Yes, no need to take all apart, just enough to r&r bushings
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Awesome. Thanks.
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The lower A-arm bushings on one side are shot. Just one side but I need this bike going today so don’t have time to disassemble everything.
Wondering if I can change the A-arm bushings without removing the hub assembly again.
Figured if I remove the lower shock retainer and pull the bolts from the lower arm, I can drop it enough to replace.
Or is it essential that I remove the spindle, and disassemble everything?
On a side note... bolts were stuck in steel tube. Used a length of threaded rod (5/8-18 [fine thread]), 3.5” long with a nut on either end. Used a steel shim on either end and loosed the nuts to wedge between the two lower swing arm bolts. Then just turned the end bolts counter clockwise until one popped loose then the other.
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The lower A-arm bushings on one side are shot. Just one side but I need this bike going today so don’t have time to disassemble everything.
Wondering if I can change the A-arm bushings without removing the hub assembly again.
Figured if I remove the lower shock retainer and pull the bolts from the lower arm, I can drop it enough to replace.
Or is it essential that I remove the spindle, and disassemble everything?
On a side note... bolts were stuck in steel tube. Used a length of threaded rod (5/8-18 [fine thread]), 3.5” long with a nut on either end. Used a steel shim on either end and loosed the nuts to wedge between the two lower swing arm bolts. Then just turned the end bolts counter clockwise until one popped loose then the other.
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Thanks a lot, guys. Seriously. I’ve ordered the clymer so should be better
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16 hours ago, caleb90 said:
61ftlb
See and that's what the service manual has but they listed it weird. "steering knuckle and castle nut". It says 61 FtLbs but wasn't sure if there is a castle nut somewhere on the steering stem that I didn't see or something. Haven't dug into the steering on this bike. Probable the only part of the bike that didn't need attention. Pretty solid. The rest of the bike was a disaster, though.
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21 minutes ago, seansy007 said:
the spacer on the inside of the 2 bearings? it should be snug between the 2 bearings not loose if its loose the bearings aren't pressed into the housing all the way in. or its worn. there's probably not a torque spec because its a castle nut with a cotter pin and at that torque spec the pin slot and holes may not line up. i usually give a few uggaduggas till the slots line up. you dont wanna give more than say 4 tho cuz thats too tight lmao
That was it. Just went and put a little more sack into it on the arbor press and now they are both snug. The bearing wasn't seated completely, Thanks again!
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I even have the service manual and can’t find the torque spec.
I just changed the wheel bearings in the front (obviously) and...
1: spacer on one side is snug, the other side moves freely inside the hub. Figure the one that is loose in there will tighten up once I torque the castle but back on.
2: can’t find the actual torque spec. I see a torque spec for the steering knuckle and castle but but not the spindle nut.
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14 hours ago, Timcon said:
will it affect my banshee if I used 25 liters to 2 ratio?
Changing oil mix ratio will mean you'll need to retune your carbs. If you were running a 40:1 but then mix at 32:1, you'll run lean and won't burn off the oil in the mix. Your plugs will be soaked in oil and your expansion chambers will pool up with oil. Mostly you'll fry your top end from running that much more lean. The oil is only there for lubrication. It helps protect against higher performance mods when going to a richer mix but the added oil isn't going to add performance. And if you don't jet for the leaner or richer condition (depending on what you want to switch from), you'll screw your top end.
That's what I read twitter
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the carrior tabs can bend. but becarefull. the stock swing arm has a weird angle to it, when the carrior is bolted on. it almost looks like one is crooked to one another
I know when I flip the bike up to work under it, the swing arm looks bent inward where the bottom carrier bolt is. Like there are supposed to be spacers between the carrier and the adjusters.
I used a ratchet strap to pull one side forward so that the center line of both ends of the axle is the same distance to the center line of the swing arm pivot bolt then tightened it (making sure my chain remained properly adjusted.
I want to replace the swing arm with the lone star but first want to try this one we are making at work.
I wonder if I fucked up by squaring the axle to the frame.?
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I must of misinterpreted the needles to be why the carbs continued to allow fuel to flow, thanks for clearing that up.
I guess I going backwards with the tune if I need to drop in the oem needles. I’m not a expert by any means to this stuff but with the clip in the leanest position and bogs at 1/4 throttle I probably need to drop my pilot jet. Since the needles have been the only change I’ll put it back to before. Other than a few extra kicks I never had issues.
I’m pinning the throttle at times so that’s a thing.
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Pin the throttle and see where the needles are. If the don’t run any risk of escaping the dump tubes you are fine. If they come all of the way out you can limit your throttle travel. If they leave the dump tube and get hung up, you’ll either die or shit your pants if your ninja reflexes don’t kick in. Haha.
There are also your needle valves or “float needles” which may have confused with your needle jet needles.
If you are overflowing your float bowls then you either have a float sticking down in the bowl, your float needle is bad or dirty or your float is set too high.
The float needle is just a tapered little gizmo that hangs from the same “tang” you bend to adjust float height. It isn’t a needle at all. It’s a cylinder with a tapered tip. When the float reaches its set height, the tapered end of the float valve cuts off flow by plugging the hole.
That’s actually harder to explain than I anticipated. And if I am misunderstanding your issue, I apologize.
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Stellar or fireball can help you with that.
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I am actually altering a swing arm at work. I had to beat mine back into shape to get my rear alignment correct. That gave me an idea so another fella and I are fabricating a swingarm that can absorb more if there is an impact to the rear axle. It’s be easier to adjust (kind of like lone star swingers, but we are going to try nitro cylinders to absorb axle impacts. They’ll theoretically absorb the impact but then, of course, force everything back into place almost instantly after the impact.
My swingarm was jacked up because someone obviously hit something hard with the rear tire or axle.
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There are probably many different thoughts on benefits of one or the other. When I replaced my front end Elka gave me a good deal on the rear link and shock as a complete package when ordering front end package. I would more than likely rebuild the OEM rear shock if I did it again.
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The OEM is pretty decent in the world of banshee suspension options, apparently. The stock swing arm could use help tho.
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Looks like Toomey needles next to stock needles and either needle won’t cause a fuel leak. Unless you stab the fuel tank with one. The longer needles have a longer taper and reduced angle.
Unless you are planning on opening your throttle enough for the needle to leave the dump tube, I found the stock needle much easier to tune with and have better throttle response than the longer needle with reduced angled taper.
The taper on those needles is longer and that seemed to have more of an affect on my mid range than I expected. The reduced taper opens the needle jet more slowly.
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Needs final adjustment but clamp much cleaner them what they send with shock
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So are there benefits to having the remote can as opposed to piggy back? I am looking at suspension now and figured since you’re on the topic and you and Loco both have remotes... I am setting everything up for riding trails in the woods, mostly.
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Also... I need to clean up again, Loco
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Watch how I never put this much effort into a swing arm bolt again. 2 days of Kroil, heating, and beating vs 2 minutes of cheap, harbor freight $25 sawzall. Ha
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Carb advice?
in Jetting & Exhaust Forum
Posted
Already bought some but thanks
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