Stupify85

It smells pretty too... so that's a plus

I have always run Klotz R50. My banshee lives at WOT. Had the engine apart when it finally quit on me in 2018... I bought it brand new in 2005. Looked clean and the cylinders were only .007 over spec in the bottom of the sleeve. Went .010 over and back together with a stock crank with upgraded bearing on the clutch side. It still runs as good as ever. I'm sold on Klotz, but most of it's life has been spent on the drag strip at high RPM.

I ran rd23 20.5's(65) and 22's(69) before. Seemed to hook fine for me, but mine was stock and bracket racing on a prepped track. Rd10 is softer yet, but may not last. I just put on a new set of M/T ET Jr.'s 19/10/10. We'll see how they do in about a month.

I know this has been discussed before. I have an asphalt bracket Banshee that was for 13 years... up to 2 years ago, a stocker. I have T6's which worked great with the stock engine configuration. She finally quit on me due to excessive wear on internals. Not bad for 13 years of thrashing. I was able to get away with. 010 over and put OEM pistons and crank in with stock stroke, and had D&D Racing do a mild port with .020 cut head. I want to keep this thing reliable and consistent... As I said it's a bracket racer. The pipes I know are not meant for a ported engine, but Dale at D&D told me it will work with a little bigger outlet at the stinger end of the head pipe. Not sure I want to cut up the nice chrome pipes before I'm sure it will work. I could still fetch something out of them and try a different pipe, but it's not a wild build. I have been and will be using this solely for drag racing, so I need a high end power pipe.