trumanbuckley1

How I always do my compression tests is I unhook the spark plug wires first off so it won’t start (or leave the key off) and then put the tester in and kick it over 5 or so kicks and read it. Repeat one or two more times and then go to the next cylinder. Sometimes I’ll squirt some oil in the cylinder if it’s an engine that’s sat for a while and could have dry non oiled cylinder walls. Let us know what happens Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Now you realize you want to disable the engine and not start it during the test, correct? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’d still run a compression test before tearing it down will nilly, unless you’re wanting to rebuild anyways. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just had a few people tell me that I should upgrade it if I started to do other mods. Quite possible that it’ll take the stress of increased HP no problem. I have a dune buggy with a 2180cc Volkswagen that puts out a little more than the 60hp the stock trans was made for[emoji1303] occasionally blow cv axles but haven’t blown a trans yet Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don’t disagree that porting is very helpful, but once you start building more power on a stock crank it’s life is going to be substantially shortened. I would have ported mine but I wanted longevity so I left it stock. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Whoever bores it will measure it and tell you what size it will clean up to and then you buy the pistons and they’ll bore and finish the cylinders to match. You want to bore as little as possible that way you can do it again down the road Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just rebuilt my banshee and I bored my cylinders, went with Wiseco pistons, Vito’s gasket kit, a billet water pump. Spent $75/cylinder boring it out and bought my pistons from eBay. Had like $400 in it total Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks all stock to me[emoji2373] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes you can compression test with carbs off. You’re supposed to hold the throttle open while compression testing, although idk if it really makes a difference[emoji2373] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Berryman 0996 Chem-Dip Carburetor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DSMEL2A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CJMjEbMB4J2KS Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Barrymans sells a gallon can of carb soak Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Running 32:1 2R yamalube with 91 gas @ +2° timing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Stock jetting on a banshee is 25 pilot and a 200 main. No reason to go lower than that especially if you’re doing mods. Toomey recommends 280 mains, but they don’t say anything about the pilots. I have a stock motor with T5’s, k&n pods, and +2 timing and my banshee likes 310 mains with 25 pilots at 900ish ft above sea level. 60°f outside. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The tuner I went to didn’t use An AFR sensor. Why do you say go up on the pilot and add more timing? When I get a chance I’ll take a pic of my plugs and see what you think Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What is your engine setup? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello, I have a 2002 with T5’s and pod filters, +2° timing, stock carbs. My jets are 25 pilots, 310 mains (they’re about 1 size above where I could be, but I played it safe with a nice caramel color, I’d rather be slightly rich and not rebuild too soon) needle on the 4th notch, and mine pulls very well and smooth throughout the powerband

Hello, I have a very similar banshee setup with T5’s, pods, +2° timing, TORS, stock carbs, Toomey needles, my jetting at 900ish ft above sea level is 25 pilot, 310 mains (I’m still 1 jet just above where I could be, but left it slightly rich for peace of mind) and the needle on the 4th notch. On my particular engine it really liked that setup and on a 60° day pulled very strong for what it is. I don’t have any pics of my plugs but I could take some if you want. Here’s a pic of the dyno graph Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello, I have a 2002 banshee with T5’s, K&N pods (so probably similar air flow to yours) and I have a 25 pilot and a 310 main with my needle on the 4th notch (also have +2° timing). I recently had mine funk tuned and I’m about 1 jet rich on the mains but I left it that way for peace of mind. My timing was spot on basically and the plugs were a nice very light caramel color. Here is a screen cap of my dyno graph reading, pretty smooth top to bottom if you ask me[emoji2373] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have? Toomey T5 2) What type of airfilter do you have? K&N pods 3) Are you a)running a stock airbox with lid stock airbox with NO lid c) Stock airbox with vents d) no airbox at all No airbox 4) What is your elevation? (If you don't know, go here: http://www.topozone.com ) 945ft above sea level 5) What size pilot jets are you using? 25 6) What size main jets are you using? 310, could have gone leaner and made slightly more hp but played it safe with slightly rich 7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for? 10 degrees to 90 degrees 😎 Do you have a port job? No 9) What kind of carbs? Stock 10) What size carbs? Stock