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The problem has been fixed! 97Screamer was correct. Although I cannot tell you which electronic was the main culprit, what I can tell you is the ignition coil on it WAS NOT OEM yamaha, I replaced it with a brand new yamaha OEM one. Replaced race tech electric stator with brand new OEM yamaha stator. Replaced race tech electric cdi box with a used OEM yamaha cdi. Problem solved. Runs better than ever! To all who read this, learn from my mistake, dont chance it with cheap aftermarket electronics on banshees, totally not worth the headaches!

I don't use Facebook but none the less I just checked the website again and all cylinder kits are out of stock no surprise there

I called during business hours and did leave a voicemail but its ok I went with bp, they always seem to be in stock and have always answered the phone

Here's a little update on driveline. I kid you not when I say I have called them well over 5 times throughout the span of a few months and not once has anyone picked up the phone. Left a voicemail, no one replied back. Checked their website over the course of a year. ALWAYS sold out. Decided to take my business elsewhere, don't care about the hype of these cylinders, i had the money, but driveline never had the customer service, or the cylinders.

What exactly makes a super cub more "tiring"?

Did you ever figure out the problem?

I've heard good and negative about race tech stators. Mainly negative. Though I havnt read anything yet with specific info as to why they're so bad. With my experience owning one, it did what it was supposed to. Used to it better illuminate a relatively large LED light bar on my shee. It was a night and day difference betweem how bright the LED bar got in comparison to the yamaha OEM stator. Race techs stator worked very nicely for that. ALTHOUGH I've been experiencing intermittent engine running problems I suspect MAY be related to race techs stator AND/OR their aftermarket CDI box that came with the kit. Reverting back to everything OEM to see what happens. If it turns out race tech products have been causing my head aches then believe me, I will be back and creating a seperate post to urge all to stay away from them.

Are you saying this based off experience or word of mouth? If you've personally had a bad experience with their 200w stators i'm curious as to what the problem was.

I have a early 1987 stator with round plugs it has 2 wires off it yellow and black. Not including the bundle of wires going into the plug of course. All oem stators got the 2 seperate wires off them. Yellow and black wires. Even the newer models. I also have an aftermarket race tech 200w stator. It has the 2 yellow and black wire as well.

The wire you're referring to off the stator is indeed black. Where it plugs into on the wiring harness is a black wire and plug lead. Ive tested this wire and it has continuity with ALL the black (ground wires) in the harness, meaning they are connected at some point or another. This can be verifird at looking at a wiring diamgram too. But since that factory black wire off the stator is grounded to the frame, the floated ground is ANOTHER ground, but it is not grounded since it'll always be connected to either of the yellow wires off the reg/rect. What that yellow wire off the reg/rect does with the connected "floated ground" is beyond me. Maybe someone will chime in with a definitive answer?

The factory stator has 2 leads, one yellow and one black. His has 3 due to the fact that the floated ground is what creates the 3rd wire. The factory black wire links to all the ground wires in the banshees wiring harness which ultimately grounds to the frame. From the couple of DC wiring diagrams I've seen, it appears that the factory black wire off the stator remains plugged in its normal location, plugged into wiring harness, hence grounded to frame

The DC side of the rectifier is off the red wire or is it off of either of the yellow wires?

That diagram seems like all his grounds are going to the frame. That diagram is one of the reasons I was so confused!

The DC current coming out reg/rect is at the red wire?

As far as your question about running it on the ground side, not sure, but from what I've learned so far, i'd be very weary of make all those ground connections in his diagram to the frame. This is because all of your AC compenents (cdi, ignition coil) are using the frame as ground and apparently, if you start using your DC components (lights) on the same ground as your AC components then you could start having problems. For this reason it is recommended to ground ALL DC powered components directly to your batteries negative (-) and NOT to your frame. If you followed this diagram though I am curious, has it been working out successfully?

If they are wires off your reg/rec are yellow it wont matter which goes where. According to his diagram one yellow goes to 87 prong and the other yellow will go to your floated ground.

Is there a particular reason as to why the 85 lead is ONLY connected to the tail light and underbody LED'S in the rear? Why only those circuits and not the others?

Hey Claude, thanks for your reply, i did read your post although I had no idea that when doing a DC conversion that AC was still being used. You and 375hp banshees really helped me out in understanding why with my setup, which is an external 12v DC battery, the AC is still being used with the frame, while the DC current needs to be isolated to its own ground (battery negative) to avoid any problems or interference. THANK YOU to the both of you! No where else I've read was it explained to me like that. My noob thoughts were that doing 12v DC conversion with a battery completely eliminated AC current from the system! Lastly, does anyone have a wiring diagram on how to hook up a Relay to switch/12v battery? Seems like a good idea to incorporate one, would've been nice if trail tech had some more info on that.

So grounding the reg/rec and negative leads off my lighting accessories to the negative battery is the proper way when not using relay? And when your grounding to the frame a relay is required?

In my dc conversion I went with a trail tech regulator/rectifier and according to their wiring diagram i need to connect the yellow from the reg/rec to the yellow comming from the stator. The yellow comming off the stator is the lighting circuit? Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm guessing a relay to eliminate the stator isn't applicaple in my situation? One last thing has me very stumped, trail tech instructions say DO NOT connect the reg/rec to frame ground. They say connect it to 12v battery negative, and to do the same with ALL devices on the lighting circuit. I've read people going with the frame ground approach and honestly I'd prefer this method but is grounding to the battery only necessary for trail tech reg/rec? See link for trail tech's diagram & instructions https://www.photobox.co.uk/my/photo?album_id=5818464202&photo_id=502715634244

This is the 3rd post ive read where someone recommended a relay. Could you elaborate on the main reason as to why a relay is used? What kind of relay?

Hey Evan, what type of relay is recommended? And how would one go about wiring it in? A wiring diagram would be nice if possible

Lets say Im riding at 4,000 ft above sea level and eveything is dialed in and running great. My air mixture screw on my keihin 35mm is at 1.5 turns. I then decide to ride at 2,000 ft above sea level, is it good practice to adjust the air mixture screws or leave them as is? When adjusting for lower elevation do you shoot for leaner air mixture ex: 2.5 turns out or a richer air mixture ex: 1 turn out? I'm aware that due to lower elevation it would be good to increase jet size but as far as air mixture screw im not sure what to tune towards.

The problem is intermittent. She runs good, sometimes for hours at a time, then the problem that occurs is misfiring out of left cylinder, hesitation, bog then ultimately the motor dies. When this happens, it's a HUGE struggle to get it to start back up. Sometimes impossible. From what I've noticed, the only correlation to this problem is alot of throttle, anywhere from 3/4 to full throttle. But it is intermittent. that doesn't always cause it. I've been struggling with this problem of its runs good then it turns to complete crap ever since I bought her about a year ago. I've tried a lot to no avail. I really hope someone can help me. Thank you so much in advance for all who may decide to chime in! I'll explain all that I've done - Replaced cracked intake boots with new ones (no cross over tube) - Replaced stock reeds to vForce4's - Performed leak down test, it was leaking through intake gaskets, yamabonded them, re-checked, no more leaks, motor held pressure - Compression check Left cylinder = 125 psi , Right cylinder = 130 psi - Cleaned 35mm pwk Keihin carburetors, ensured 16mm float, went down 1 size in main and pilot since it was running rich. Now @ 158 main & 45 pilot ( I ride at 2,000ft above sea level ) They are on the middle clip position. I've tried 2nd from the top (above middle) this made the problem happen real quick. I've tried 4th from the top (below middle) couldn't get it to idle. My air screw mixture screws are at 1 & 1/2. - Made sure to properly synchronize the carbs with snail meter -Replaced ignition coil (spark plugs weren't always sparking with the original) thought that was my problem. New ignition coil provided proper good spark but didn't fix the problem -Checked flywheel for rust and pickup coil gap, everything was good. I'm @ 4 degrees advance. -Checked wiring harness for hot spots or melting. It looked good. -Re-packed the exhausts with new packing TORS was removed by previous owner NOW please don't make me feel worse than I already do for this HUGE mistake I made, it still painfully troubles me today, I sold the original yamaha cdi box because I didn't think I needed it. I got a high output 200w stator + voltage regulator/rectifier + a "high performance cdi box" from RaceTech Electric to better power my LED lightbar. Thinking this new "high performance cdi box" would outperform my old original yamaha cdi box I sold it like a fool. I am worried maybe my problem is due to the CDI box since I bought a cheap $10 one off amazon and connected it. The amazon CDI box instantly mimicked the problems I randomly encounter, only difference is, the problem wouldn't go away and it ran even worse than usual. When she acts up, the Left exhaust pressure is very weak in comparison to the right exhaust. I'll put my hand over it to feel the difference. Also there won't be smoke coming out of the Left exhaust for a few seconds then suddenly it'll spit out more smoke than the right. Very weird because when it runs good none of this happens. Both exhausts push out equal pressure and equal smoke. Possibly this is due to the Left cylinder compression being 5psi below the right? Left = 125psi , Right = 130 psi Anyways, I'm leaning towards bad cdi box, faulty/shorted wiring harness, or a full on rebuild at this point but I'm new to banshees and not sure if there's anything I've overlooked or anything else I should inspect. All input and feedback welcome. I'm open to any and all advice at this point. I'm willing to do just about anything for a fully successful riding trip with my new baby

Thanks bro, although im not quite sure what a hanging throttle sounds like, or does, could you please explain it a bit? Thanks