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It's flowing. Right out the overflow of the right carb lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah that is the plan at this point to start with. Yank the whole thing and tear it apart. Just not sure which seal kit to buy and if there are any other failure parts in there that I should do anyway. I know the transmission is leaking, but I haven't identified where. just know it bled all over the floor. The petcock doesn't appear to be leaking so I'll probably leave that alone. Hoses all appear good but those are cheap items so I can grab them at the parts store if I see any worn ones. As for air leaks in the carbs - yeah who knows. Maybe. I'm not even sure how to test that.

I'm back. Kinda. I hadn't even looked at the bike for some months. Figured I'd revisit it. I retested and sprayed and sure enough air leak coming from the breather hose off the right side of the motor. I was hopeful and said to hell with it and slapped it together to see if I could "run it as it is" and it wouldn't even start without ether. With ether, it started and idled alright. Then one of the carbs started leaking so obviously float isn't set right. For giggles I rode it to my back yard and back to see if it was any better after patching up the leak on the reed, and no, it isn't. It still sucks. So what do you guys think I need to order to make this damn thing run right? Seals I'm sure for the lower end. I'm not going to mess with the wiring since it will run as it is. Oh well about no kill switch. Anything else that is a "MUST REPLACE" item while it is on the bench torn apart? I'm gonna re-read through this thread and try to figure out what is what again. I've forgotten most of it already. Then do some searching if I find any answers.

I soaped up everything on the top really well and found and fixed the obvious leaks. I can't see where the .75 psi is coming from if it is up top. If it is on the lower end, that is gonna require tearing the whole thing out and tearing it down. I'd really rather not do that unless it is absolutely going to cause me problems. If it should be fine where it is, to get it to a rideable and sellable condition, then that is where I'd like to keep it. Honestly, not thinking about making it perfect, but making it work, do you think I'm okay where I'm at?

Alright so finally had a little time to start on it this afternoon. Built the leakdown tester, bought a hand pump so I didn't kill it with my compressor. Pumped it up to 7lbs and it lost about 4 pounds in 2 minutes. Soaped it up, found a leak on the bottom of the reed on the left side, Tightened that up, pressurized it again, 7lbs and lost about 1.5lbs in 6 minutes. Soaped it up again and realized my tester was leaking slightly. Fixed that, pumped it up again and lost about .75 psi in 6 minutes. I've read multiple answers on what is acceptable here. 1 psi per minute loss? 1 psi over 6 minutes? Or should it hold 6 psi solid for 6 minutes? I appear to be in an acceptable range now assuming either of the first two are good. But if it has to hold 6 psi without any loss for 6 minutes, then it has to be leaking somewhere on the bottom end inside. So would you guys say I'm good to move forward on testing the other items?

Excellent thank you Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Your help is what I came here for. Got a lot less from a lot of other posts. So I appreciate it. I came here because there are probably people like you who can look at what I describe and give me a list of likely things and information they have off the top of their head rather than just dropping easter eggs for me to guess and check. I'll see if I can google specs. Can't see the sense in buying a manual. This will definitely be my last banshee endeavor. I have very little time to spare. My ultimate plan is to sell it, no matter what. I do not want it. I am 100% positive about this. But I'm well over $3k into this piece of crap, so selling it as a non running maybe it will work maybe it won't project will probably lose me 50% or more. If I can spend another $100 and make it move correctly then sell it for $2500-3000 then I'm not totally eating shit. If I have to spend 40 hours and $500-1000 then I may as well cut my losses now.

Alright I'd like to preface my response here with the fact that I'm trying to spend as close to zero on this as possible. So please, consider suggestions as mandatory for proper function, not ideal for best performance. I am still planning to sell this thing off. 1 - why replace the domes? 2 - tried finding the harness guy suggested on here and his facebook is closed and number didn't work. Not looking to spend $100 here anyway. Would prefer to patch what is here. Don't care if it is crazy clean, just functional 3 Leak down test is GOD. Must move this to position 1 4 Alright you mean plug caps I'm guess? ohm them to what? 5 is this another cleanup move? Or is there an issue with spark deterioration due to weak coils and long wires? 6 ohm to what spec 7 anyone know what this should be? 8 easy enough 9 done 10 will have to get back to you on this. I know the needles are what someone earlier in this thread suggested but can't remember off the top of my head. Slides no clue. Don't remember seeing obvious stamps on them when cleaning the carbs.

Eggs all in one basket. Got it.

Alright, so lets say the leakdown isn't an issue, then what?

Beyond the leakdown test suggested, I've done several things suggested. I've spent several hours researching, digging through, trying to find info on this particular combo and tuning to no avail. Maybe a leakdown test will solve the whole puzzle. But if it doesn't, I'm back in the same damn spot again. I have the tools. I have plenty of experience working on real bikes and cars. I do not have a ton of experience working on two stroke anything. But mechanically speaking, yes a very simple system, more simple than most 4 strokes by a decent measure. However, I have ZERO experience tuning one of these things. I've only owned a couple other two strokes, and never had to tune them. They worked when I got them and worked when I sold one, and I'm sure the one that got stolen from me a couple months ago is still running fine too. So, basically, leak down. If I lose less than 1psi per minute I'm okay right? If I lose more, then soap it up and figure out where it is leaking. If it is something top end, okay I can fix it easy enough. I just have shit for time available. What little I do have, I really don't want to spend it working on things. I do not enjoy working on bikes or cars or any of it. I do it because I am not wealthy enough to buy a new one when the one I've got quits. There is no therapy in mechanics for me. So when I came here asking for help, I was trying to streamline the process to try and save time. Since forums are generally full of people who know their shit, they can usually pop on and save me hours of reading with quick answers, especially on simple machines like this. So my bad if I insulted the community with my sour attitude towards the bike. It has been a royal pain in my ass compared to the other several bikes I've dealt with recently. And I'm still mad about being an idiot and paying more than I should have from an asshole who sold it as something it wasn't.

I'm in Albuquerque, NM. I want to try and lose as little money as possible. I paid $2500. If anyone seriously wants it, shoot me an offer. Most likely I'll end up having to fix it so I don't lose my ass on it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah lean was the consensus when it actually started and moved. We've regressed since then. Didn't touch it for a couple months and now it won't do anything at all. Can't say if the clutch is toast. Kinda have to diagnose one problem at a time.

Yeah I agree with that. Unfortunately, I already have this one and have to do something with it. No, I am in NM. Why?

Well I'm back. Not sure if I'm here for help now or just bitching. I did as suggested and let it sit. Work was busy so it sat for a few weeks, and at that point, some pieces of crap stole two of my dirtbikes - the ones that ran of course, not this pile of garbage banshee. That took the wind out of my sails. Today I decided I'd spend some time working on it. When I last left it, it was running, but not well, and had locked up the rear axle due to the axle bolt sliding out and bending. I fixed the axle and decided I'd try to start it and do some test and tune. Well.....a can of starting fluid, a carb clean and about 200 kicks later, it won't start. I don't get it. I hate this thing. I genuinely hate this thing. I'm posting it up for sale as is tomorrow. I'm hoping I don't totally lose my ass on it but I can say without a doubt I will NEVER purchase another banshee, or for that matter, a kick start vehicle. My foot is killing me.

This thing just pisses me off. Pulled the carbs, swapped the 142 mains for 148s. Put it back together and it felt a little better, but not much. So I pulled those, and bumped straight up to 155s and set the air screw at 2.5 turns out. Went to test ride it and for a second it felt like it might be better, then grinding and the back end locks up and it dies. I look to see what happened and apparently the axle bolt came loose and got caught in the sprocket. So it is bent to hell and I'm going to have to torch it off, try and fix the adjuster bracket and get another before I can test the carbs again. I'm fairly positive I'm sick of it already though. No matter how well it runs if it ever runs right. This is pretty much a mission to make it work and sell it and hopefully not totally lose my ass on it.

In neutral it appears to be revving just fine. Only under load does it fall flat. I'll try bumping up the main jet tomorrow and try it again.

Okay so the tors box is now unplugged. No difference. I taped up the wires that had been cut from the carbs and the "main switch" connector according to the diagram. I didn't bother with the kill switch yet and not sure I plan to at this point. I couldn't find a green wire with a yellow stripe. Bike doesn't feel like it has much power and then falls on its face like it is in a limp mode. I've uploaded two videos. The white one is the one I'm having the issues with. The other one is another stupid mistake that runs better. Now being a fat guy maybe with the red one I've just got too high of expectations for it to be able to drag me around compared to the raptor. But with the white one, something just isn't right and I don't know what it is. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the diagram. I don't even know what the tors is. I'll have to do some research. I don't know what it is revving to as a number goes, but it's spinning pretty high. Not as high as the other banshee, but sounds like a lot more than 2k. Maybe I'll take a video put it on YouTube and link to it here for reference. Maybe. This weekend I'll have a little time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm not really sure what you mean by that. It revs pretty high, but I feel no power. I feel a slight amount of power right of the throttle break, but beyond 10-20% throttle, it just gets more disappointing. As a note, the other one that is sitting in my yard right now, it starts and runs, and it screams as far as RPMs go, but has shit for power either. I was thinking something may be wrong with that one on the clutch. Problem with having a busted bike to compare a busted bike to.

Alright. I got the bike put together. It isn't leaking fuel anymore. I do appear to have a trans drip though. Not sure from where. It started up on the 3rd kick and idled well. Did that a couple times. Then went to test ride it and it died and wouldn't start for about 5 minutes after about 50 kicks. Finally got it to go. Revs nice in neutral. Put it in 1st and it doesn't really have shit for power. Feels like it is falling on its face about halfway through the gear, then revs a little louder but doesn't move any faster. 2nd and 3rd gear it has hardly any power and is sputtering. So.....jetting is obviously wrong. I'm not sure which way to go with which one. Anyone have a good video I can watch to get an idea of what this thing should accelerate like? I rode another one, and it felt like no power too, but I'm not sure if that bike was in the greatest shape either. Maybe these just don't feel all that powerful compared to 4 strokes? Having never been on one I know is good, I have no baseline to know if I'm just not liking it, or if it isn't running right. Also need to find a wiring diagram. They cut the wires to the hand controls, so it doesn't have a kill switch. Wires are just twisted under the tank.

Well I need to find out what type of filters to buy. I tried cleaning and re-shaping these K&N and they are just too far gone and they don't fit very well in the bike. Would like to order whatever parts I need to make this thing go by next weekend. I'm just gonna leave the jetting in the carb that was there before so I'm not changing too many variables at once. Switched the needle to the middle slot from the top to richen it up a little and see how that does. Float levels should be set well enough now. Pump gas - 91? Or do I need 93? And mix 40-1?

Honestly I just want it to run well enough for me to see if I prefer the banshee over the other ones. If I fall in love with it then I can research and play with it until it is crazy or ride it like it is if I feel it is enough. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Alright so I spent today working on bikes. Raptor is going. So that's good. Banshee I did a compression test on. And a squish check based on a YouTube video. Here's what I got. 135 psi per cylinder Squish on right cylinder=1.67mm and 1.7mm Squish on left 1.6mm and 1.8mm So what I take from that is that I need to properly torque the head. And hopefully the rental OEM brand gauge from autozone is reading a little low. Motor was obviously totally cold as it hasn't been started in a week or so now. What do you guys think? Where do I go from here? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I live in Albuquerque, NM Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk